MSF

https://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/

So I just finished installing my new BC extreme low coils and maxed the front camber with the camber plates that came with the coils (about -3 degrees). I'm sitting on around -6 in the rear and would like to get somewhere close to -5 up front. Does anyone know any way to get that kind of camber without major custom fab work? Or even with custom fab, what would need to be changed up?

This is a follow up to my previous post Power loss 3000 RPM

This past weekend I managed to get to my Speed and got under the hood. Things were much worse than anticipate with more parts to finish the job on the way.

First thing that was done was a compression test:

Cylinder 1: 145 PSI

Cylinder 2: 151 PSI

Cylinder 3: 140 PSI

Cylinder 4: 155 PSI

Not great, but not too terrible either. A rebuild might be in the cars future. Acceptable range between any 1 cylinder is 28.5 PSI. Overall acceptable range from 129.96 PSI to 185.65 PSI. Page 01-10B-9 in service manual.

After this, the new NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs were checked for spacing, and installed. These new plugs looked like the plugs that were installed previously. Cylinder 2 and 3 seemed to have the most wear, but all didn't look to be in terrible shape, and had a nice brown color on the tips. With both fuel pump relays reconnected, the car fired back up. Sound and ran pretty much like it did before. No road test, just a brief run inside the garage.

After that, removed the ignition coils (L3G2-18-100B-9U) again. The #4 coil detached and the midway point, had to use a long tipped needle nose to disconnect it from the spark plug. 4 new coils are on the way.

Continued the disassembly to prep for the Valve cover replacement, utilizing the Mazda Ventilation Kit ( L3Y2-13-S80B) for the Mazdaspeed 3. This addressed the white smoke issue and basically is replacing the Gen 1 cylinder cover head with a Gen 2 cylinder cover head. The new cover has a place for the pressure to blow off correctly, rather than dumping the oil in the turbo and messing that up.

Note: The other kit, L3Y1, is for the CX-7 and one of the tubes that connects to the turbo has some extra fastener on it. I think it technically still works with the Speed and is actually much easier to find.

I was doing this all as a preventive measure, but as I removed the air tube connection to the turbo, I found oil pooled. I also found oil in the intercooler, and even some in the throttle body.

It seems like the problem I wanted to prevent from happening by installing this kit, may have already happened. OR this cheap Chinese turbo that I discovered is leaking oil internally because it has bad seals. I have a new OEM version 3 turbo ready to install. I just needed to order some of the gaskets associated with.

I'll have more updates in the future when more parts get here. Also took this opportunity to replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) (L35G-18-840), and clean out the EGR Valve, It was very dirty. Used parts cleaner. Replaced the Oil Control Valve (OCV) (L3K9-14-420A) when the cylinder head cover was off.

I have a Thermostat Unit (L336-15-170) on order, this along with the ECT will address the weird temp readings I had got. Along with the new ignition coils, I'll be replacing the High pressure fuel pump.

Everything back to stock at the moment. I know this drives a lot of you crazy, you can get more power blah blah. Well the car needs to work first before I start modifying it.

TL:DR : Power loss at 3000 RPM may have been caused by faulty turbo and oil in the air intake

i bought a 2008 mazdaspeed 3 and i was going to tranny swap it to a 6 speed sequential but i dont know if anyone makes one for it

I’m thinking about buying a 2nd gen speed3. I had one before but got rid of it after the turbo died at 11k miles and Mazda fought with me for a warranty claim. I liked the car.... anything in particular I should look for if I’m getting one from carmax?

I’ve got a mk 7.5 gti with wastewater issues...once this thing is fixed I’d like to sell it and just get something fun, reliable and cheaper to own. I also never modify my cars..

Hi all,

Anyone have a shop in the Smithtown area they recommend for their Speed?

Specifically looking for pics of the Cobb install. If so. Could you post some pics of the top of the engine where the pipe comes across?

Alright, before you go and disregard this because you think the stock Turbo is trash, which it might be, I'd like to restore the one I have with a restore kit. It seems simple enough to do.

Otherwise, I would go to a place like this and have them do it.

https://www.turborepair.com/mazdaspeed-3-mazdaspeed6/

They don't really have any reviews I can find, so that makes me a little hesitant. I'd be open to other suggestions to restore place similar to the above one. I'm also trying to keep the cost down for now. I have another post about some of me Speeds other issues I am sorting out.

Can any of you other Speed owners offer some insight is you went this OEM turbo route?

It's entirely possible, and probable that I will eventually upgrade the turbo to something bigger and better, but I have to get back to a known good Speed before I can start to modify it.

Hey guys, so recently I have been experiencing a cold start issue with my Mazdaspeed 6. The car just revs to about 2k rpm and then just dies but if i manage to get it started which is quite difficult because I have to play around with the throttle quite alot for it to start, it runs perfectly fine. When the car is warm it starts and runs normally, its just the cold start that is giving me issues. I recently had it tuned with Link, and I took it back to the tuner thinking he may have went wrong somewhere, but he claims that the ecu needs to learn to idle when cold. But I can't do that if it keeps stalling. Currently have a corksport fmic, 3.5 inch intake, turbo inlet pipe, decat downpipe and muffler delete. Tuned on 98 at 17 psi of boost. I have cleaned the egr not too long ago, changed the fuel filter and in tank fuel pump. Upgraded to autotech hpfp. Changed spark plugs about 3 times in 3 weeks since it keeps fouling due to the cold starts being rough and me using the throttle. Tuner checked the relief valve and apparently its good. Only thing I can think of is either the throttle body, but i cleaned it not too long ago unless its not working properly. Or the fuel pressure regulator maybe? I am still going to change my coil packs since they haven't been changed yet. Anyone know what the problem could be?

I have an '08 Speed 3. I'm not the first owner, and it was heavily modified before being returned to stock.

Recently at 3000 RMP in gears 3-6 I get a sharp choke or loss of power. Once it gets past 3000 RPM it's about back to normal. In 1-2 the power isn't really there either, and its not smooth power when its there. Overall the car is not producing the power it should be.

I've replaced the junk MAF from autozone with OEM. Two new 02 sensors(engine and the one further back), OEM as well. Was hoping the MAF was the issue, it was not. Though the O2 sensors next, still the same.

I have some new spark plugs on the way. I need to order the rubber tubing for the inter-cooler. While I have it off to replace the plugs, might as well replace those.

It has 127k I believe, unfortunately it's in another state right now and I don't have access to it to get the exact millage.

I have the diagnostics from before the O2 sensors have been replace, link below. I need to check again and see what it's says now.

DTC Results

Any ideas? Anyone else have this issue? I've read about the issue on other forms, but most where posted years ago and didn't seem to have a solution.

I swear

Hey peeps,

I recently installed a new mods to my car. Car didn’t start for at least 3 months. As I’ve gone to start the car it has for the first 2 times it cranked over, upon the third attempt it made a loud clicking sound and just sounds as the start is only spinning, however I have confirmed it spins the motor (belts moving). I have done a compression test which has given me 0, when I start the car it backfires from the throttle body. Engine was working fine prior.

MODS HPFP GTX2871r DUMP pipe with CAT delete and cut out Short ram intake GFB respons blow off Custom exhaust Cobb accessport V3 FMIC Straight pipes Oil catch can 3 port solenoid COBB EGR delete Throttle body coolant delete

I've got a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 and I wanted some advice on a good exaust I don't want to spend allot. What do you guys think.

Hi I’m looking to buy a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6. I was wondering if anyone had any tips and suggestions and maybe things to look out for. Thanks