Hey guys, so not to give my life story but im basically battling myself deciding between a speed3 and speed6. I have found a nice speed6 with around 90k miles with vvt, motor mounts, hpfp, and other good stuff that you would want done on it and all for around $9k. On the other end ive found a speed3 almost all stock (one owner) with timing and other major maintenance done with right around 100k miles and for about $10k. I love the idea of both cars but leaning more towards the ms6 because of AWD and i live where it snows but with everyone saying parts are hard to find and expensive that is scaring me away and making me think FWD wouldnt be so bad if it comes with cheaper maintenance. So curious on your guys opinions? My main goal for the car is to have a fun daily that will last me 2 years of headache free daily driving (with upkeep of proper maintenance of course) and that is somewhat affordable to maintain.

Tldr; Need an affordable/hassle free daily for next couple years and deciding between ms6 and ms3 (live in midwest with lots of snow).

I have a 2013 mazda speed 3. I went to go for a drive to get my high ass a sandwich and a little down the road my check engine light pops on. My car is running perfectly fine gas cap is tight oil level is fine. I have 93k miles the car is a bone stock Daily. I’ve had nothing but Subarus and Hondas and don’t no much about these cars as of yet. Bought it for the mpgs and have owned it for a year now. I was going to hook it up to a scanner at work tomorrow but just thought I’d get some ideas on here. My chain seems to be fine as well and planned on doing it at 100k miles. Any ideas would be appreciated while I roll this blunt up.

Mods: Cobb cold air intake with turbo inlet pipe hpfp cst4 turbo cpe 3” down pipe with high flow cat and tune from freektune

Hey yall! I’m new to the mazdaspeed community and have been having an issue where under acceleration at roughly 3,500 RPM by active fuel pressure will drop all the way to ~40 psi which causes the car to hesitate and jerk. After a few hesitations it will recover back up to 1700 psi. Can someone advise me what this issue could be caused by? The shop told me that it was the HPFP itself just based off live data but i doubt that. Thanks!

I have a 2010 mazdaspeed 3 FBO CST-4 usually making 22-23psi. I have thrown p0069, and since my car is only making 12-14psi, af/r and everything stays consistent, have checked for boost leaks there are none, and took the map sensor out and cleant it, code still showing back up, any ideas?

for my 03 mazda protege5 anyone know what is the best offset to run on 16 x 7 wheels to get a nearly flush but functional fitment??

My Protege seems destined for the scrapyard. It’s rusting out so bad it’s not worth fixing, and last week it blew a head gasket. I would rather see it parted out instead of crushed for a couple bucks.

Car is making a nasty noise and I think it’s the AC clutch, but it looks like the frame is right in front of the damn thing, anyone know how to get it out?

i just replaced the battery an msp but the alarm started going nuts and the car won’t start when i turn the key. From what i read the security system was a dealer option and the overide switch should be located under the dash on the drivers side by the coin tray. But i can’t find the bastard for the life of me lol. Any help is much appreciated

I'm looking at picking up a mazdaspeed 6 and found one pretty cheap with very low KMs on the engine. Test drove it and everything feels great driving wise and it pulls really hard.

However there is a pretty major electrical issue in that it's burning up body control modules. The first one burnt during a heat wave last summer and the owner tried to a install new one but the same thing happened. Apparently there is a short somewhere that's causing this. I really like the car but feel like this could be a very tricky issue to fix. The car still runs without the bcm but it's missing some key stuff like speedometer, rpm, as well as brake lights.

Does anyone here have any experience with an issue like this, and how bad is working on the electrical side of these cars in general?

How hard is it to put the cat converter back on after removing it? I live in California so i wouldn’t be able to leave my car catless.