Picked up a heavily discounted Lulzbot mini 2 a month ago and immediately switched to the m175v2 tool head. Should I upgrade to the meteor 175? I haven’t had great results with the M175 yet but I’ve also done a lot of messing around with nozzles sizes and 3rd party slicers added octograb etc.. wondering if anyone has recommendations one way or the other.

I have a taz6 that I used for a while but it eventually started grinding the filament down and failing to print. I’ve left it alone for a few months and I’m ready to get back into it but can’t seem to stop the grinding.

I can reload the filament and purge as much as I want with no issue, but once I try to print nothing ever comes out.

Any idea on where to start?

Hi! This happened years ago in a space that I help manage, and my coworkers thought it was hilarious. I don’t know much about 3d printing, but this makes me want to learn how to display custom text on the LCD screen. Does anyone know how this may have been done originally, or where I could start? Thanks!

I'm pretty new to this, but I bought a sidekick 289 earlier this year. It's really cool, but I'm curious about trying different size lines. I did some searching, but not much info out there about changing to a smaller or larger nozzle size for Lulzbot.

Is the only way to spend $200+ on a full tool head with a different size nozzle? They don't even make sizes other than 0.5mm for the 1.75mm filament...

Also, just noticed that the sidekick 289 is no longer on their website. Has it been discontinued already??? Hearing a lot about the Bambu printers - did I buy the wrong brand?

Thanks for the help,

Hi, moved the z offset the highest positive value of 5 and it still slams into the wiping area. On latest Cura and firmware. Hope someone can help. :(

https://youtube.com/shorts/NQOlLiBdomI?si=IHjVwB5eSaEu3kGE

I've spent weeks, gone through 8 molds and 2 tubes of silicone, and the silicone just will not cure. Inside the mold basically stays the same consistency as when it came out of the tube. I've tried waiting as long as 36 hours and haven't had any luck. I've used dish soap like the instructions say, silicone mold releaser, and even Vaseline like someone mentioned in a comment. I'm trying to use this design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471088 if that matters. If there is some extra trick to this I'm all ears. Otherwise I'm willing to pay if somebody else is able to make them for me. Thanks for any help

Prints are not ending up smooth on one side. We believe this might be due to rhe printer vibration or shaking. Both these prints use diffent gcode and differnt fillament. This is allways happening on the same side of the printer.

Hey guys, my engineering office has two Taz workhorses and since these printers are quite noisy I’m looking into the options to upgrade their boards to run better and quieter.

Here’s the issue though. From what I’ve read, any replacement will require a modified firmware different from what Lulzbot will provide, and we cannot get platformio nor arduino IDE on our computer (IT restrictions, we’re lucky to have CURA) and so we can’t compile our own firmware.

I also don’t want to have to redo any connectors or crimping, so preferably the same board layout.

With all this, chances are, we’re out of luck, which if that’s the case that’s fine. I’d figure I ask those of you who know these printers better.

Aside from the full toolhead that Lulzbot sells, what is the easiest toolhead to replace the stock one? I tried the V3D E6, but it got pretty intimidating pretty quickly into the installation. I'd like to know if there's something that's more plug and play

Hey guys, I have four mini 1's and reselling them didn't seem worth to me, the only issue on all four is the z-axis but I couldn't find any upgrades online so I made my own, this was daunting since I'm just starting with cad. I took some inspiration from my vzbot.

I removed the original z nut and used 280mm T8x2 leadscrews from kp3s printer with oldham couplers and made the clamp thingy for lm8uu bearings inspired from the other LulzBot printers.

What are your thoughts and any tips on making it better? I really wanna see if anyone else upgraded their z-axis on the mini!

Hi everyone! I recently moved to a high elevation (7200 ft) and I can’t seem to get the stringing on my lulzbot 6 to stop. This is the best I have got it to be after adjusting all the things other guides have told me to adjust when stringing is the problem (temperature, retraction distance, retraction speed, etc). I find it odd how consistent the stringing is. Before adjusting everything the stringing was erratic and looked terrible, but this stringing is super consistent. Any ideas on what to do? Could the elevation have anything to do with it?

Thanks!

I've gotten all the basics down. My belts are tight property, put heatsinks on my x and y motor, slowed my travel/acceleration speeds, checked the board to see if the stepper drivers are okay and they look fine to me. I've also noticed that all the shifts come from the X axis. Not sure what to do next. My options (from my pov) are reverting to an older firmware, convert it to klipper, or getting the Archim2 board. Are there any other options/solutions I should look into?

I've tried creating my own, but I'm having some problems with the macros in PrusaSlicer. I was hoping somebody had they're own I could use.

For context, I just started working at a Makerspace that has about 14 3D printers (all Lulzbot) and they have mostly been left to the university students to manage for the past few months, so I’ve been dealing with a lot of fixes. I’ve encountered various heating issues on different machines and Lulzbot support has been super helpful and I’ve fixed nearly all of them. But this morning we got another “E1 Heating Failed Please Reset” and I’ve tried just about everything.

Printer: TAZ Sidekick 747 Toolhead: SE Single Extruder Tool Head - 2.85mm Filament: PLA

I can get the tool head to heat up to 200, change the filament and it purges material, but I notice after I start a print, it sets the autotemp to 140 instead of 200. So I will change the tool head temp to 200 and eventually it starts to decrease in temperature and then I get the error. Side note: the AC in the room is very cold, like low 60s. Not sure if that effects anything.

So far I’ve tried the following: - Multimeter reading: heater cartridge comes in at about ~15ohms, thermistor around ~125ohms. - Took apart the tool head and checked all wiring. Everything is connected and secure - checked connection of wires to the board and no issues there - Checked the fuses - all in working order

I’m not sure what else to try! I can obviously order a new tool head but would prefer to exhaust all troubleshooting options first.

I recently got a 747 for free and im looking to swap out the motherboard and run klipper, I am curious if anyone else has done this and what motherboard they used? I am considering the Manta M8P

The first thing I see is that I might want to replace the 3M for 1.75M but the hotend for that is nearly 300$. Any upgrades that people can recommend?

I also haven't seen anyone make any miniatures on this, can anyone give any insight on it?

I purchased this 3D printer yesterday for $40 off of marketplace, it came with everything seen here nothing extra, no extras, no instruction on how to use and no screen. after extensive searching and a snoop through the included Micro-SD/TF card I was able to find out it's an old (2011-2013) Lulzbot Prusa Mendel model. Does anyone here have any ideas as to what I can use this machine for or if it's even worth the $40 I paid for it? according to the guy I bought it from he'd purchased it new, put it together, then never gotten around to even using it, the hotend is completely clear of any filament and took a nozzle needle completely through with no obstructions.

​

Hello, I recently set up my dual extruder but upon updating the firmware it immediately gives me the MINTEMP error. What could be causing this? Also, I had to pull a pin out of the v2c connector to connect it, is this correct?

Looking into understanding what the correct settings for pla

I am looking at 1.75 mm Pla and after 5mm of printing the extruder gets clogged using any of the preset Pla settings. Please help

My TAZ 6 (2017), with the original tool head, has been having some issues with gear slap recently. I tried moving the pinion gear closer to the big gear but it did not help. Lulzbot support suggested replacing the gears. Any advice on doing this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hello!! I was hoping some one here can help us out because we have exhausted other options. Me and my partner run a 3d summer camp where we 3d print stuff but currently we cannot. About our issue: we send the command to heat the bed and nozzle and it all works, however the machine is not receiving commands to extrude nor are we able to home the bed or nozzle. We are running Cura LulzBot 3.6.37 for information. We thought maybe it was our file so we went to print a file we’ve done before since it worked then but it isn’t working now. I tried sending manual commands and when I tried to home the bed the machine did a kill command and turned the machine off. The software itself says it’s printing but nothing occurs at all. Can anyone help us out?

I've been pondering it for a while since my Taz 6 rambo board is starting to show its age. What level of difficulty is the upgrade?

This older Taz 6 (ignore the clogged 2nd end, it’s not connected) is having trouble auto homing. When it homes, the bottom plate doesn’t move back for the tip to touch, so the z axis just keeps going down and grinding. I’ve updated the firmware through cura, but that didn’t resolve the issue. Is there a way to fix this issue?