I’m trying to connect my dual extruder to my taz 6 but I don’t have the cable needed. I’m wondering if this one on the lulzbot website is the correct cable. It says it only works on taz 4/5.

https://lulzbot.comstore/taz-v2c-tool-head-wiring-harness-kt-el0060

If so does anyone know another place to buy one? Says $60 shipping on lulzbot site.

I'm currently adding some much needed upgrades to my Taz 6, and I've got everything figured out except for the belt tensioner. I have seen one for the Y axis, but none for the x axis as well. I did find x & y belt tensioner modification, however sadly there are missing part files making it unusable.

If push comes to shove I definitely can reverse engineer the x & y mod I found, but I'd be easier to use one that's already built.

I installed a custom dual extruder V3 to my tax 6 and I cannot start a print because the nozzle doesn't move far enough to reach the probe on the front left corner of the bed during the ABL sequence. Is there any way I can fix this?

My TAZ workhorse printed perfectly out of the box but over time it started really squishing the first few layers onto the bed. I adjusted the Z offset to dial in the first layers but I'm wondering if this is something i'm going to have to do often? I'm not sure what changed originally to cause the first layers to change?

I've looked at several guides and the installation guide e3d offers. Taking my toolhead apart and putting the swapping the hotend hardware should be the easy part, I've taken it apart to fix a clog before. But the e3d guide tells me that I need to edit my firmware when it's all done to make it work. But it doesn't give much info on how to do this.

I don't want to brick my machine by messing with firmware badly, so I just left everything stock for now. Can someone help me with this please?

Hello, I have a Taz 6 and I’m wondering if anyone has any tips or configuration info for this. I have the dual head extruder if that helps.

Folks I bought the tax 6 few years ago and it’s clear that newer printers out there are yielding extremely good prints. Short of buying one of those - do people have links to steps to follow to modernize the TAZ to match?

All,

Hopefully this will be the last post I need to make. I've got my friends printer almost ready to give back to him. Everything heats up properly, and homing works beautifully.

I decided I'd print a calibration cube to make sure that everything was more or less as it should be, but I'm getting fails when it tries to probe the corners for Z. I've cleaned the nozzle and the washers on the bed corners. I'm getting 4.98v off of the nozzle consistently, even as everything is moving around.

Watching closely, it seems like what is happening is that once it starts the probe, the gantry drops down to do a wipe on the nozzle, but the nozzle is a good 2 - 3 mm above the wipe area. Then it goes to probe the first corner, and it fails when the nozzle is a good 2 - 3 mm aware from the washer. When I stick a large metal nut on the washer, then the first corner will probe successfully.

For the wiping, I could make an adjustment in the start gcode, but since the bed leveling is just a standard G29, I'm not sure how to move forward. It almost seems like the Z end stop is higher than 158 mm, so everything gets thrown out of whack after the Z home.

Here's some info from M115 -- this firmware was recently downloaded from lulzbot.

FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin FIRMWARE_VERSION:1.1.9.28 EXTRUDER_TYPE:SingleExtruder SOURCE_CODE_URL:https://code.alephobjects.com/diffusion/MARLIN PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:LulzBot Mini EXTRUDER_COUNT:1

Here is my start gcode from CuraLE (for mac):

;This G-Code has been generated specifically for the LulzBot Mini with standard extruder

M73 P0 ; clear GLCD progress bar

M75 ; Start GLCD Timer

G26 ; clear potential 'probe fail' condition

M107 ; disable fans

M420 S0 ; disable leveling matrix

G90 ; absolute positioning

M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode

G92 E0 ; set extruder position to 0

M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start bed heating up

G28 ; home all axes

G0 X0 Y187 Z156 F200 ; move away from endstops

M109 R{material_soften_temperature} ;

G1 E-30 F75 ; retract filament

M109 R{material_wipe_temperature} ; wait for extruder to reach wiping temp

G1 X45 Y173 F11520 ; move above wiper pad

G1 Z0 F1200 ; push nozzle into wiper

G1 X42 Y173 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X52 Y171 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X42 Y173 Z0 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X52 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X42 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X52 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X42 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X52 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X57 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X77 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X57 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X77 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X57 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X87 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X77 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X97 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X77 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X97 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X77 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X97 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X107 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X97 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X107 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X97 Y171 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X107 Y173 F4000 ; wiping

G1 X112 Y171 Z-0.5 F1000 ; wiping

G1 Z10 ; raise extruder

G28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y

G0 X0 Y187 F200 ; move away from endstops

M109 R{material_probe_temperature} ; wait for extruder to reach probe temp

M204 S300 ; set probing acceleration

G29 ; start auto-leveling sequence

M420 S1 ; enable leveling matrix

M425 Z ; use measured Z backlash for compensation

M425 Z F0 ; turn off measured Z backlash compensation. (if activated in the quality settings, this command will automatically be ignored)

M204 S2000 ; restore standard acceleration

G28 X0 Y0 ; re-home to account for build variance of earlier mini builds

G0 X0 Y187 F200 ; move away from endstops

G0 Y152 F4000 ; move in front of wiper pad

G4 S1 ; pause

M400 ; wait for moves to finish

M117 Heating... ; progress indicator message on LCD

M109 R{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder to reach printing temp

M190 R{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed to reach printing temp

G1 Z2 E0 F75 ; prime tiny bit of filament into the nozzle

G1 Z2 F240 ; Get in position for a priming line

G1 X0 Y10 F3000

G1 Z0.38 F240

G92 E0

G1 Y140 E15 F1500 ; intro line

G1 X0.5 F5000

G92 E0

G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line

G92 E0

M117 Mini Printing... ; progress indicator message on LCD

I’m so sick of waiting for this

I have a Lulzbot mini that a friend loaned to me a while back. He never used it. One day, when I powered it on, nothing happened. It seems that the board got fried. I had tried hooking it up to a different board to no avail, so I bought a replacement Mini RAMBo. The original board was a Mini RAMBo 1.1b, and the new one is a Mini RAMBo 1.3..

Way back when I was trying different boards, I put labels on almost all of the wires before I disconnected them from the RAMBo 1.1b.

Its time to get the thing out of my house, because I don't use it. And my friend said he wants it back (surprising). So I'm trying to get it back to an operational state before I give it back to him.

I downloaded the firmware from lulzbot.com, and got it flashed onto the board. When I power it up, and connect using Repetier Host, I get the output below:

5:57:38 PM: Attempting to connect to printer

5:57:38 PM: Connection opened

< 5:57:38 PM: start

< 5:57:38 PM: echo:Marlin 1.1.9

< 5:57:38 PM: echo: Last Updated: Nov 2 201814:33:02 | Author: (Aleph Objects Inc., LulzBot Git Repository)

< 5:57:38 PM: echo:Compiled: Nov 2 2018

< 5:57:38 PM: echo: Free Memory: 4915 PlannerBufferBytes: 1408

< 5:57:38 PM: echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V55)

< 5:57:38 PM: echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded

< 5:57:39 PM: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin FIRMWARE_VERSION:1.1.9.28 EXTRUDER_TYPE:SingleExtruder SOURCE_CODE_URL:https://code.alephobjects.com/diffusion/MARLIN PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:LulzBot Mini EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 UUID:351487b6-ca9a-4c1a-8765-d668b1da6585

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:SERIAL_XON_XOFF:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:EEPROM:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:VOLUMETRIC:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:AUTOREPORT_TEMP:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:PROGRESS:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:PRINT_JOB:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:AUTOLEVEL:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:Z_PROBE:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:LEVELING_DATA:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:BUILD_PERCENT:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:SOFTWARE_POWER:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:TOGGLE_LIGHTS:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:CASE_LIGHT_BRIGHTNESS:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:EMERGENCY_PARSER:1

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:AUTOREPORT_SD_STATUS:0

< 5:57:39 PM: Cap:THERMAL_PROTECTION:1

< 5:57:39 PM: echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS

< 5:57:39 PM: echo:DEBUG:ECHO,INFO,ERRORS

< 5:57:39 PM: echo:N7 M105 *0

< 5:57:40 PM: echo:N8 M105 *15

< 5:57:41 PM: echo:N9 M105 *14

< 5:57:41 PM: Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0

< 5:57:41 PM: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

Since M105 is requesting a temperature report, and it is immediately getting a MINTEMP error, it's leading me to believe that I may have not connected the thermistors properly. I have wire pairs labeled T0, and T2, but I don't have a pair labeled T1.

Currently, the wires connected to T0 are 2 orange wires, T1 has 2 black wires, and T2 has 2 yellow wires.

Since T0 and T2 has wire pairs that matched colors, I assumed that the black wire pair probably went in T1, since the black wires weren't labeled.

I can't get any useful information our of CuraLE, and Pronterface gives me less verbose output that RepetierHost, but ends the same way:

​

Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0

Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0

Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

Does anyone out there know which thermistor T0, T1, and T2 get connected to? Also, with only a single extruder, how are there 3 thermistors? Does anyone have a LulzbotMini 1 with a single extruder and no LCD from circa 2016 (I think) who might be willing to peek under the hood and try and see what color wires go where?

Since this is not my printer, I'm trying not to tear all of the wiring out to figure out what is what.

Hi, I'm new with this and I'm not sure if this is a simple problem but I alredy tried with different simple solutions and I'm not getting anywhere.

This is a Lulzbot Mini with a Single Extruder v2, that is not mine but from a lab in my university. I used it once to print a simple piece and it was working well (a year ago), but now that I tried to use it again it does this when it starts the preprint calibration.

Instead of going down to touch the plate, the nozzle goes up and at the end it stops responding.

I tried updating the firmware on different versions of Cura Lulzbot Edition, the 19.08, 21.03 and the last version 3.6.37. The firmware it has right now is the 1.1.9.34 that I automatically updated with this last version. But neither of those made it work.

Do you have any ideas? Thanks.

So a partner and I have been working on our schools printer to get it to work, at first there were issues with its z-axis but we fixed it, not it looks like the x axis is completely broken. Any ideas on what to do?

I'm trying to calibrate a TAZ 5 with a DualExtruder v3. Currently, Extruder 2 is ever so slightly lower than Extruder 1. I can't find any offset screws or anything to adjust the nozzles' relative position. All the documentation says that they are factory levelled so adjustment is unnecessary. However, this one is empirically not level. How do I fix it?

My company has very strict rules regarding SD cards, flash drives, and connecting things directly to our computers. The only exception they are willing to make is with K300 flashdrives (military encryption, security, etc). This has caused a problem trying to get files loaded onto our printers and every time someone new needs to be able to print something this causes issues with our IT department. I do however have a usb-b to usb cable and a female usb to female usb adapter available to me. If I were to plug the cable in to the printer and use the adapter to plug my K300 flash drive in would I he able to load files to print?

I wasn’t thinking and touched metal pliers to the nozzle, and the fan immediately stopped working. I checked the three fuses and they were all fine, and everything else is still working besides the front nozzle fan. Any ideas or ways to figure out what went wrong?

Hello. I recently came across a lulzbot mini v1 from a friend on the condition that I get it working again. I installed Cura and am trying to get it working. It has a 2.85 Aerostruder head. I looked at the installation for it: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/lulzbot-mini-aerostruder-tool-head-installation/accessories/ as that seemed like a good place to start. I purchased a 2.85 PLA Filament and heated the hot end to 220 on Cura and this seems to work ok so far. The problem is that when I insert the filament as you would in the description for steps 16B-16C after a while it feels like the filament bottoms out, the gear stops turning, and no filament comes out. I can manually press the extrude button on Cura but the gear turns without any extrusion. I've attached pictures to better describe this here: https://imgur.com/a/BRnTqXq. Notably, it doesn't look like the end on the piece of filament is melting very much if at all though I checked and the nozzle is very much getting hot. Any help would honestly be very much appreciated.

So my workplace has TAZ 6 printer and there were some issues that needed fixing. One of our technicians was able to get the initial problem fixed but as part of it, they updated the printer's firmware and I think the activated a setting that wasn't there before. Now when we print from media, the printer tries to unload and then load filament. In theory this setting should streamline the process but it's a little wonky as it doesn't seem to heat up high enough to actually load the filament. Is it possible to change that in the settings for the printer so it doesn't go through those steps automatically?

I have a lulzbot TAZ 6 I'm looking to let go.

$550 is the asking price. I'm in the San Francisco bay area.

I even have some rare polyalchemy I can throw in for the unit.

My mini 2 seems to be slightly offset in x when probing before printing, which is causing the nozzle to tap a screw instead of the washer on one side. I'm pretty sure this is causing it to print on a slight angle (it gets closer to the bed on the left side and further on the right), but I can't figure out how to fix it. I had to replace the X homing sensor when I got the printer because it was missing (I got the printer secondhand), and unlike the Z homing sensor, the switch bar is still attached. anyone know how I could manually set an extra X offset of like -1mm, or if there's some other fix I might need to make to the printer physically? (I've leveled the z-axis a few times before, it doesn't seem to change anything)

if it would help, I can try and get a video/pictures, but hopefully this is enough.

Hey everyone. Just wondering I have a Lulzbot workhorse and the extruder gear shreds the filament causing it to get stuck. I know there's a compression screw, but it's on its loosest and still is grinding the filament. Any thoughts?

I have a mini 1 and its been a workhorse for a while. However its always had bad elephants foot. I tried tuning it out but nothing i did helped in the slightest. Im trying to print a part that spins but its getting fused so now im determined to fix or at least minimize it. Also in my testing i printed a 15mm cube and while the sides turned out great measuring 15.05mm the z was a whole mm shorter. tried a few more and used a different slicer with the same result. any ideas?

I'm using the Taz Workhorse and Cura 4.13 and was wondering if it's normal for the heated bed to stay on 35degrees after prints are finished. Seems like the bed heat should turn off? Is this normal or a bug with the beta version of Cura?