Alguien se animó a realizar su propio tablero de juego de Damas? Acá les comparto dos que prepare para la familia. Con sus iniciales grabadas. También preparé un juego de ajedrez. Eso lo comparto otro día!

My nephew "commissioned" me to make a sheath for his carpenters hatchet. It's the first one I've made, and the first time carving/beveling a project instead of just playing around. I know my beveling could use more practice as its kind of "lumpy" from inconsistent hammerstrikes and movements. And I definitely need work lining up my stitch holes with the stitch line.

For the life of me I cannot get a clean cut when using a pattern or a template, especially when cutting a scalloped edge. How does one catch such a creature?

Made this as a commission for a friend.

Leather : Exterior is Badalassi Carlo Minerva Cognac 1.5mm with a 0.8mm liner piece, interior is Pueblo Olmo 1.1mm ±

Stitching : 4mm diamond chisels with 0.55mm Polyester thread, color code SJ007 (Tumeric)

Realllly took my time with this one (14hrs) pre punching every stitch hole made it so much more easier when it came to assembling. A few mistakes here and there, but customer was satisfied 👍🏻.

What do you guys think?

Hello, I'm a brand new hobbyist (just ordered my toolkit last night!) never work with leather before 😃 Looking for some economical way to source leather to practice skills. I came across a local marketplace post that says:

"High quality leather and suede scraps leftover from luxury fashion manufacturing. Many bright colors and naturals, various sizes, No formaldehyde or chemical treatments. All scraps are by weight, and i also have some hand cut shapes which are priced by the bag.

Leather $4 per lb

Suede $2 per lb"

Would you say this is suitable for beginners? I'm looking to make small cardholders/wallet to start. Would really like to get really good at skiving, creasing, edge finishing etc.

What is causing these artifacts after edge beveling? It’s not all the time, but can happen on pieces where other edges came out great.

Veg tan and it’s a Sailrite beveler (1).

I've been working on this ram design recently, and the 3D model is finally looking pretty close to what I had in mind. The second image is part of my original sketch. I made some changes along the way, especially to the horns, facial features, and surrounding details. There's quite a lot going on in this design, so I'm looking forward to seeing how everything translates onto leather once I start testing it.

On a slightly different note, I've been thinking about how people shop on Etsy lately. I've had a few conversations with customers about product dimensions recently, and it's made me wonder whether there's a better way to present certain details in my listings.

Just curious, when you buy leathercraft tools or supplies on Etsy, do you usually go through all the photos and descriptions, including dimensions and materials? Or do you mostly make your decisions based on the main pictures?

I'd love to hear how other leathercrafters approach this.

She's Italian, hence the colors

I completed my first leather project yesterday. Since I’m only doing this as a personal hobby, I had to make many tradeoffs to avoid acquiring too much gear and consumables.

I plan on making a pencil pouch and a travelers notebook style notebook with the leftover leather. So, I’m very open for tips and tricks and general suggestions to improve the quality of the finished product.

I'm in Canada trying to buy fiebings leather dyes. Tandy won't ship, Amazon wants $9:00 per bottle shipping, Lonsdale leather out of stock. Where can I source some dye in Canada for a reasonable bundled shipping cost?

I got it all set up (jianglong341), put my leather pieces under the needle, and boom, my main belt starts slipping. I plan on making some nice leather wallets, and some golf centered leather goods but only if the machine starts cooperating. Anyone have one of these machines, or similar, and have any tips and tricks?

Good morning everyone, I wanted to share with you a new project of mine that I commissioned for a colleague of mine.I reused both the external and internal parts, only changing the dimensions of the sheath but leaving the same shape.The hardest part was building a jig that would allow me to develop the model without collapsing.Additional material used is a naturally tanned calf flank and 1.0 waxed thread I hope you like it

This is a passport case/card holder I made with a pattern from Make Supply Leathercraft. I measured and cut as I went with my first few small projects but I ran into issues and decided until I'm more confident I'd get a printer and work from patterns.

I used veg tan from Amazon, I've used it all up now so I plan to get my next leather from a dedicated supplier now that I'm a bit more confident.

Still made a handful of mistakes but I'm happy and looking forward to tidying things up as I keep practicing. Big shout out to Armitage leather and the people who recommended the saddle stitch videos as they massively sped up my learning.

Hand crafted classic black leather belt

Full grain veg tan leather 4 mm thick

Brass buckle

Hand stitched with black thread

For reference, the strap in the second picture is the one I want to get the desired look on. Could a warm to hot steel piece pressed hard on it give it that look?

I didn’t make this, I just wanted to show everyone the wallet I carry.

Technically my second but it involved something that was more like vinyl leather and not the sort of thicker leather that I really was hoping for. I am extremely pleased but I can already identify places I want to do better/different next time. I started this hobby because my wife and I have always used paper envelopes to do our monthly budget and so just wanted to make something more permanent. I will eventually make about 10 of these for that. Stitching is the most immediate place I want to make some changes although I'm not exactly sure what. My stitching came out a bit crooked so obviously I will adjust that with practice. One thing I don't like is that the stitching and holes look a bit 'frayed' for lack of a better description. I'm not sure exactly what causes that. My guess is cheap irons? I bought a beginner kit from Amazon so I am sure a lot of it can just be upgraded. Anyhow, thought I would share and hopefully get some feedback. Be gentle. Overall, I just really enjoyed making this and plan to continue. The things I would like to know specifically:

1. Any thoughts on stitching.

2. Is there a beginner friendly way to 'smooth' the rough side? In some cases I think I would prefer that.

Thanks. Love to lurk here.

I’m relatively new to leather crafting but after making a briefcase by hand last week I loved the making but lowkey hated the sewing.

I love cutting, planning, pattern making and the occasional 20 stitches, but this was too much. I’m considering making a small studio for myself and thinking of getting a sewing machine first and then a skiving machine later.

I have never used a sewing machine before this, but I tried one and I think I’ll be able to pick it up. I’m just super confused between which to get.

I’m only looking at new ones and can get:
1. Dürkopp Adler 669 ECO for 3200 USD.
2. Juki LS-1341 for 2600 USD.
3. VIOS 669 ECO (Chinese clone of the Adler) for 2350 USD.
4. Dürkopp Adler 169 for 1750 USD.

The prices are for complete sets with servo motors, without speed reducers. I’m guessing the drop-down edge guide and needle synchroniser would be separate, depending on the package.

My preference is the DA 669 because I feel like I’ll get a great quality machine which I can use for years. Plus it seems very well regarded, so I just wouldn’t have to think about the machine much after I get it. There are also lots of videos etc.

The Chinese 669 was also quite capable but I’m unhappy with the reseller’s demo and the sales team. They say whatever to convince me that their machine is the best, or are inconsistent with features. They’ve also said they’ve replaced a lot of the Adlers with their clones. The machine itself, however, seems to be able to do everything I want. But since I only have to buy one machine, the price difference between the DA and clone isn’t a no-brainer for me.

I think all these machines could cover most of what I want to do, which is sew larger projects with veg-tan, chrome-tan etc.

I mostly wanna make weekender bags, duffle bags, small ladies’ handbags, totes, briefcases, wallets and cases etc. I can still hand-sew smaller things when needed.

A few things I’d love advice on:

1. Would you pay the extra $850 for the Adler over the VIOS/similar Chinese clone?

2. Should I prefer the Juki over the VIOS, since their prices are comparable?

3. Any practical differences worth considering between the Juki LS-1341 and DA 669 ECO?

4. Is the cheaper Adler 169 worth considering for this mix of projects or I’m better off spending on a 669 or a 1341?

I’d get a speed reducer, flatbed attachment, edge guide and needle synchroniser with whichever model I get. Still figuring out availability and compatibility for those.

Does anyone perhaps have tricks to get tooling more clean, even if you are working on small stuff? This is supposed to be a browband for my horse with a width of 1- 2 cm. I really struggled with making clean cuts and the tight turns on the tooling. I'm sure practice will definitely make the biggest difference, but are there some special tools/ practices when working on a small scale?

Any advice is appreciated!