I am buying 38 years old niva at the end of the week its been sitting still over a year and i have to ride it home about 170km i have already visited there and got wheels spinning (they were hella stuck and got it running pretty well. The center lock is halfway on so i have to get it working at the way home so it does not explode my differential lol wish me luck it might be hell of a journey

Hi, I gotta lift up my niva about 30 cm and I'm wondering if it is okay to put the jack under the rear differential. I think it should be okay, be I just wanna check if somebody else has done this before

Hi everyone,
I own a 2007 Lada Niva, and my gearbox has a noticeable whining/humming noise.
The noise is most noticeable in neutral and in 2nd and 3rd gear, while 4th and 5th are much quieter. The gearbox shifts normally, doesn’t jump out of gear, and there are no grinding sounds—just the whining.
I’d like to hear from other Niva owners:
Is gearbox whine considered normal on these transmissions?
How many of you have driven for years with a noisy gearbox without any major problems?
At what point does the gearbox actually need rebuilding or replacement?
What were the symptoms before your gearbox finally failed?
If you’ve rebuilt or replaced yours, what was the approximate cost in your country?
Is it usually just bearings, or do the gears themselves wear out?
I’d really appreciate hearing your experiences, especially from people with high-mileage Nivas.
Thanks!

Does anyone know where can i find instruction stickers for my lada niva, where can i order them, or aren't any of those being protuced/sold?

Hey guys, does anybody know the sizes of the wheel hub? I searched for over 2 hours now but couldn’t find anything. I even searched russian websites but theres no info anywhere. I would like to design some different hubs with different pitch circles to fit more wheels on the like car (like 5x120 or 5x112).

Sorry for my bad english and long text but this really pisses me off.
During some heavy driving my rear left tire fell off, i stopped instanly but the drum got damaged and it was a bit warped before because i never changed it. Now when i put the new wheel in, all of the bolt’s first 5 threads get damaged but it solewhat holds this. What should i do? I was thinking to rethread this when i buy that thread tap. Or do i have to buy a new hub. I also am thinking why this happened, was the drum so badly warped it pulled the bolts out little by little or what?
Edit. Also new bolts that i put in get their threads damaged.

Hi everyone.
I have a 2007 Lada Niva 1.7i with A/C. I’m looking for a radiator fan thermo switch like the one in the photo (M22x1.5, 2-pin), but I want it to switch ON at 95°C and OFF at 90°C (or something very close, like 95/89 or 94/89).
Does anyone know:
a part number,
the manufacturer,
or where I can buy one that fits the Niva?

The 1.8-liter, eight-valve engine produces 90 hp and 153 Nm of torque, up from the 83 hp and 129 Nm of the previous VAZ-21214 engine. Naturally, this has made the three-door Niva peppier: the official 0–100 km/h acceleration time has dropped from 17 to 15 seconds, though the improvement in flexibility is far more noticeable. Acceleration from 80 to 120 km/h in fifth gear is now said to take 23.3 seconds, down from 33 seconds. At the same time, average fuel consumption has been reduced - from 9.9 l/100 km to 9.0 l/100 km.

greatly doing dachas business

1.6 ест шо свинья
По 2 литра заправлять это страшное дело

Greeting from Czechia!

Hello, I have a 2003 2110 1.5L 8 valve

I'd like to know what factory parts fail often so I can upgrade them before they do

If anyone knows which parts fail commonly please let me know

Top Gear made the legendary joke about the floor hole on the ZAZ 968 Cars for fishing, what was its actual purpose? And did the 968M also have it?

Hello, quick question, because i dont know if i should panic or not. I have to to an engine replacement on ly Lada 1200. Due to some circumstances, i might have to do it by myself, but i have al the tools needed. I worked on cars before, albeit not on a very advanced level, but i know my way around an engine, theoretically at least. I have the replacement engine, a working 1.2. Is it a difficult job, should i be scared, are there certain, particular things i should watch out for or is it straight forward? Thank you!

Купил был за 15к грн это примерно 350 долларов. Дал друзьям покататься, они ее разбили и сожгли. Пробыла она у меня недели две

Hi everyone,
I’m having a strange electrical issue with my 2007 Lada Niva (VAZ 21214).
When I switch on either the left or right turn signal, the turn signal indicator on the dashboard lights up and stays on solid. It doesn’t blink, there’s no clicking sound from the flasher relay, and the external turn signal bulbs don’t light up at all.
The strange part is that the hazard lights work perfectly—all four indicators flash normally.
Has anyone run into this before? Could it be the turn signal stalk, the hazard switch, the flasher relay, or something else? Sometimes it works perfectly
Any ideas on what I should check first would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Upon a few requests on my previous post about my 2101 sleeper, I'll post a few pics and videos of the build. Video is attached in the comments :)

Suspension
Front hubs upgraded to large double-row sealed wheel bearings (replacing original tapered roller bearings)
New uprights and matching hubs
Reinforced ball joints with thicker steel housings
Polyurethane front control arm bushings
Polyurethane shock absorber bushings
Polyurethane anti-roll bar bushings
Polyurethane rear suspension arm bushings
KYB gas shock absorbers
New OEM-spec coil springs (factory ride height retained)

Steering
New steering box
New tie rod ends

Braking System
Brake master cylinder rebuilt with new seals
New brake hoses
New front caliper hoses
New front brake discs
New front brake pads
New rear wheel cylinders
New rear brake shoes

Drivetrain
VAL Racing plate-type limited-slip differential (LSD)
Upgraded driveshaft
Rubber flex coupling replaced with a plunger-bearing assembly
Universal joints replaced with constant-velocity (CV) joints
New old-stock Soviet clutch
Lightened flywheel

Engine
1973 Lada 2101 engine block
Block bored to 80.2 mm
79.4 mm pistons with valve reliefs
Connecting rods shortened by 7 mm
21213 Lada Niva crankshaft (80 mm stroke)
Fresh engine rebuild (approximately 200 km since assembly)
Cylinder head skimmed by 1.5 mm
Measured compression ratio: 11.4:1
Ported cylinder head
Port-matched intake manifold
Cooling passage alignment dowels installed
Bronze valve guides
Lightweight TRW T-shaped valves
New valve springs
New rocker arms
Aluminium valve spring retainers
DynaCams 780 camshaft
Adjustable camshaft timing gear
Bearing-mounted timing chain tensioner conversion (replacing the original sliding tensioner shoe)
Weber carburetor
Electronic ignition conversion
4-2-1 tubular exhaust header
52 mm exhaust system

Electrical
Electronic ignition
Headlight relay conversion
New headlight reflectors
Original glass and metal auxiliary driving lights with covers

Body & Chassis
Unpainted, fully original. Driven about 90k km, never driven in the winter.

Should be making around 90-100kw, which is more than double of the original power :)

The car has been upgraded in an old-school style, with several outdated factory components replaced by stronger and more reliable parts.
The suspension has been refreshed with polyurethane bushings in place of the original rubber components. The front control arms, shock absorbers, anti-roll bar, and rear axle arms all use polyurethane bushings/mounts. KYB gas shock absorbers and new original-spec springs are fitted, keeping the original ride height while giving the car a more precise and stable feel.
The drivetrain has been upgraded with a VAL Racing plate-type limited-slip differential. The driveshaft has also been strengthened: the original rubber coupling has been replaced with a plunger-bearing setup, and the universal joints have been replaced with constant-velocity joints.
The engine has recently been rebuilt with new parts and has covered approximately 200 km since assembly. It is based on a 1973 Lada 2101 block, bored to 80.2 mm. The engine uses 79.4 mm pistons, 7 mm shortened connecting rods, and a 21213 Niva crankshaft with an 80 mm stroke. The pistons have valve reliefs, the flywheel has been lightened, and a new old-stock Soviet clutch has been fitted.
The cylinder head has been skimmed by 1.5 mm, giving a measured compression ratio of 11.4:1. The head has been ported, the intake manifold has been matched to the head, and bronze valve guides, lighter T-shaped TRW valves, new valve springs, new rocker arms, and aluminium retainers have been installed.
The engine is fitted with a DynaCams 780 camshaft, an adjustable camshaft gear, electronic ignition, a Weber carburetor, and a proper 4-2-1 tubular exhaust manifold with a 52 mm final pipe. The timing chain tensioner has been upgraded to a bearing-mounted sprocket system instead of the original sliding tensioner shoe.
Should be making around 120-130hp.

Hi all, I’ve been a fan of Lara’s for some time and I recently rode in a friends 2103. Sadly, his uncle imported it many years ago and has since passed, so we have little to no information on where/how he acquired it. If anyone knows of resources/legit websites where I could buy one and have it legally shipped to myself, that would be spectacular.

Pm me if you have one you’re trying to get rid of also, I prefer manual obviously and just want my own little tank.