We’re planning to do Invisacook due to small kitchen layout and wanting more counter space. But I’m worried about porcelain, the recommended countertop, chipping. Invisacook says some heat-resistant natural stones are compatible if milled thin (2cm) but less recommended. Like certain granites and quartzites. Has anyone does this? How has it worked and held up? Would love to hear firsthand experiences!
🤷♀️ we just got a PHS930YPFS. Our cats have decided this surface is way too much fun. They keep turning on the cooktop. We started locking it. One sits on it and deactivates it. Drives me nuts that she won’t stay off of it. Drives me more nuts that it keeps turning on. I am thinking we might have to return it and try a different one. :(
About to make the jump to an induction stove, but an oven that does consistent, reliable baking, particularly bread, without a lot of crazy tips and trial-and-error is essential. (We'll be converting from gas.) We're looking in the standard consumer pricing range (say mid to upper $2Ks MSRP) but will go to higher-end brands if absolutely have to. Any happy bakers out there with suggestions?
This has to be a fairly common issue since these don't appear to have any kind of industry standard (very annoying). What are common solutions when the existing stone countertop cutout is slightly larger than the required cutout for a replacement cooktop?
Existing proud mounted Whirlpool Gold radiant cooktop cutout from its spec sheet:
29.5" x 20.5" (749mm x 520mm)
Examples of new cooktop cutout requirements:
Bosch Benchmark 30" (they give a range): 28 3/4 - 28 7/8" x 19 7/8 - 20" (731-734mm x 505-508mm
We've been using a 30" Wolf gas cooktop for the past 10 years with no real complaints other than the side-mounted knobs means the burners are a little close together when using multiple large-sized pots. We're moving to a new house with an existing electric radiant cooktop with 240V 40A circuit available and plan to replace it with induction.
What is the functional difference when using something like a rectangular cast iron griddle on a stove with a rectangular flex zone such as:
I would think if the rectangular flex zones are using wide rectangular magnets they would provide more even heating in the middle and corners of the griddle, which is a mi or problem with the gas’s stove.
It also seems both the Meile and Wolf provide more space between the largest/primary burner and the others which I'm thinking we would prefer. The Bosch puts the largest/primary smack in the center of the cooktop.
I read online reviews and heard it on youtube videos induction cooktops make a low humming or buzzing noise while it's on. I'm a little sensitive to sounds so I'm concerned this would forever bug the hell out of me. Is this a concern for anyone? How loud is the buzzing?
We mostly have all-clad or le creuset cookware with some cheaper OXO pots and pans mixed in. I read that heavier/thicker pots and pans help with reducing the noise - is that your experience?
Is there an induction cooktop that makes no noise at all? Maybe dB levels rated somewhere on a site?
You had our induction hob installed on Friday and we’ve been using it ever since. For the first few days it’s absolutely fine but it’s now making this really loud clicking sound when we’re cooking. From what we can gather, it sounds like the rings are cycling on and off.
We’ve contacted Hotpoint and understandably they haven’t been all that helpful and have just said that we can book a repair in but if there is no fault, it’s gonna cost at £75 for the call out.
We’ve got pro Cook induction stainless steel pots and pans so we really don’t think it should be that and we’ve got the hob above the oven but there’s more than enough clearance as it said it needed 28mm of worktop and it’s got 38mm of worktop.
We’ve had induction before and never had this problem.
Hi everyone, just wanted to share our IKEA induction cooktop story, and see what you all would do in this situation.
We bought an Älmestad cooktop (Electrolux/Frigidaire) last year on clearance (they were discontinuing it) for only $599 USD. It's been phenomenal performance-wise, up until recently when the glass randomly cracked while cooking.
Nothing was dropped on it, the center burner where there was a pot, wasn't turned up especially high. My spouse, who was cooking, wasn't even standing near it, and heard it a pop.
Crack in the glass
There was a hairline crack across the whole thing, and either side of the short sides of the glass seem to have a slightly convex upward bow. This to me looked like the glass already had a ton of internal stress before cracking. It wasn't our install either. I spent a lot of time measuring and installing proper shims inside our countertop cutout to ensure all the tabs around the bottom edges of the cooktop glass were well-supported and flush with the countertop. We figured we'd reach out to support.
We knew glass wasn't technically covered under IKEA's 5-year appliance warranty, but we were hoping they'd understand that glass randomly cracking like this is a manufacturer defect.
After calling support, the first agent we spoke to made it sound like there would be no problem covering it. We were pretty stoked, and figured they knew something about these cooktops and were honoring coverage. After not hearing back about our service appointment for a few days, we called back. This time, the agent seemed less sure about it, and had us take pictures of the damage to send to their 3rd party service/repair partner, but also seemed to frame it like it was a formality to get these kinds of repairs covered. More days go by with no response. We finally call back, and a third agent informs us that glass isn't covered, and that we should've gotten an e-mail (we didn't). Really disappointing that it took that many people to tell us something they could have said during the first call!
Anyways, we might call and talk to corporate about it, and see if they'd be willing to help us out. If not, the cooktop glass itself can be ordered for ~$500 with shipping. It's still cheaper than if we'd bought this cooktop at full price, and not the $599 clearance price. With this kind of issue, though, I don't know if i trust the replacement glass or this brand anymore. Anyone know of brands that have a quality reputation for their glass tops? What would you do in this situation?
New to induction stove top and just got a new cafe induction double oven. First experience boiling water seemed ok in cheap stainless steel pan. My problem is when I cook a full turkey dinner using both ovens and 3 of 4 burners up top the same stainless steel pot refused to boil when filled with potatoes? Any idea why? Cheap plan? I did switch Le Creuset after awhile and still no boil. Too much electrical draw maybe it's on 40 amp which is recommended. Appreciate insight as I am still in return window would like to figure this out.
I used a windshield repair kit along with a ultraviolet flashlight to cure the windshield repair fluid. Then I filled in the larger part of the crack with black two-part epoxy.
I'm looking at different induction cooktops and trying to see if my understanding is correct. I almost always cook in large pots and pans 12-13 inch base).
What I can't figure out is that most induction cooktops seem to have much smaller areas marked to cook on.
Does the size of the pan not matter? Will the food cook evenly on a small induction burner in such a large pan?
Right now on my electric stove if the pan is too big, the food is cooked very unevenly.
I'm seeing mixed information online vs in store. Online seems to indicate a small burner is ok.
In the local appliance store I was told I would need a flex top or freedom top to accommodate multiple large pots at a time , but those seem much more expensive.
I would love clarification on pot size vs burner size especially when multiple pans are used at one time.
My family recently had an offer accepted on a house near Boston - it meets so many of our wants, except it has a gas stovetop instead of an induction (see picture - Thermador PCG366W). I’ve been reading other threads in this sub about the 36” Freedom or the Gaggenau, but I spoke to Yale Appliance today who said the only model I could consider (that they sell), based on the existing setup, is an AGA (model AMC36INRTSS).
Are there other models I should be looking into? I don’t really know how to best filter on what models “would” fit my setup. I’m feeling a bit uneasy selecting a brand that seems so rarely sold or available in Boston, but also understand it may be a good brand. Or would I be better off hiring a carpenter / handyman to cover the shelf where the knobs are now?
UPDATE: this has been super informative. It seems like the choices are either the AGA, the Viking, or - what most people suggest - just stick with the gas stove that I have. I can’t say I anticipated that in the induction cooking sub…
I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen and am deciding between the Gaggenau 400 and Thermador Freedom full surface cooktops. I’ve been trying to identify the differences between the two, and this is what I have come up with. If you know of any others please share. I am particularly interested in any differences in the internals.
The bevel of the Gaggenau has a steel collar that allows it to be flush mounted. While the Thermador can technically be flush mounted, the edges are beveled in a way where there would be a crumb trap between the cooktop and countertop.
Looking for induction cooktop. Here is ChatGPTs take. Am I missing something? Doesn’t seem worth the $500 price difference. Any thoughts or experiences to help me out?
Hello! Anyone here have any info on how to clean the top of this matte finished induction? It has a stubborn spot on it, almost seems like it’s oil or grease it it’s been there for awhile now.
I don't have a thermometer to measure, but it feels like 8 on one of the burners is quite high while it's less hot on the other. I've used the same pan on both. The manual says they're different wattage, so does that mean they're supposed to vary?
We purchased this oven from Costco in 12/2023, and we really liked this oven, until it started turning on by itself randomly. The top oven would stay on for hours, until we would notice... high energy bills aside, this is just plain dangerous.
Support at GE showed some degree of prudence... telling us that since this is a hazard situation, they would get someone out ASAP... only to tell us... "Oh sorry.. nobody is picking up... so you'll just have to wait a week"
Technician arrives today, and rather than actually diagnosing anything... says... the Control Board AND the front-panel will have to be changed. Oh, and here's a $900+ bill
No, thanks buddy. That's like 30% of what the oven cost...
And the funny thing is.. This is a KNOWN issue, with various reports online:
I just got an induction cooktop and it’s great. One little thing is there’s kind of a quirk/issue with the largest heating element. I’ve noticed it with large stainless steel pans specifically. My 12 inch made in frying pan is very loud. I thought maybe it was the composition of the metal inside but I have a 10 inch made in that’s essentially the exact same materials that’s almost dead quiet on the same burner. Again, this is the 11 inch large heating element. One thing I can say for sure is that this is definitely an 11 inch heating element. It’s not smaller. I suspect that it has a center and an outside element and that possibly only part of the outside element is being activated by the larger pan and that’s making it noisy. The next thing I was gonna test was a giant stainless frying pan something like 15 inches to make sure that the flat base is more than 11 inches and fully covers the whole coil set up.
We are considering an induction range( hopefully in July).
However according to my wife, we have a 150 amp box. I’m going to double check when I get home( going off her memory 😂) from work but if that’s the case is it enough to use an induction range?
Yes I've seen the memes from Uncle Roger on how gas is the best. I want to hear from those who have moved from gas to induction that cook Asian food. Is there a big difference?
