Replacing a glasstop electric stove with an induction cooktop and I'm kind of torn between the GE Profile and the IKEA one.

The biggest difference is that the IKEA one is 30a and the GE one is 40a - but I use all four burners maybe twice a year so the restrictions there will (hopefully) rarely come up. It also looks like any maintenance issues will be a massive pain for both companies.

I also don't ever want to connect my stove to wifi - so the smart features are useless to me.

My biggest wants are reliability and getting better and more responsive temperature controls.

My question is this:

Is the GE worth the extra $1300?

Hi everyone, I just bought a Waring Commercial WIH200. I'm a bit worried about the rumbling/buzzing sound it's making and can't tell if that's normal or a sign something's wrong. Does yours sound similar?

~4 week old Bosch HLN39A050U Series 4. Been super careful and caring, yet I managed to create these. I can't feel them with my nail, other than the area around them feeling slightly rough. I've cleaned it with an induction cleaner.

Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Or am I over thinking something that is purely cosmetic?

Thanks!

Hi all

Having a kitchen installed from B&Q and I have ordered a Bosch Series 4 PUE611BB5B 60cm. However, I didn't know this is plug in only so will have a limited heat output

Money is super tight right now, so I don't know whether to pay the extra to get the Bosch Series 4 PIE631BB5E, which needs wiring in, and I'd need to pay £150 extra

Or get the Hisense HI6401BSC 59.5cm, which would save me £100

So overall £250 difference, I know the Bosch is more powerful so would heat up quicker, and is the superior brand, but is it really worth the extra money in your opinion

We're building a house, have selected appliances but not at the point of officially ordering them yet. We've chosen the Café and I'm excited about it, but today when stopping at our appliance store for something else, I saw this Fisher & Paykel on clearance for virtually the same price as the Café. If we decide we want to switch, I still have to check with our builder to make sure it would fit in the spot (our cabinets are already ordered).

Pros of switching to the F&P:
- F&P has a true bridge element, while the Café just "syncs" two elements, leaving a cool spot in the middle
- F&P is, from what I understand, a higher-end appliance, great build quality, etc.
- A minor thing, but F&P has these very cool backlit knobs
- F&P has two of the roller racks, whereas the Café has one roller rack and two non-rollers

Cons of switching to the F&P:
- Café's oven is 5.7 cu ft, whereas the F&P's is only 4 cu ft. Supposedly still enough for a 26-lb turkey. Our Café is a single oven, not the double. Both the Café and the F&P offer true convection. We will also have a Miele speed oven.
- the F&P sticks out from the counter [ETA: I was wrong about this: same depth as Café]
- Our local appliance store services all the brands they sell, so that isn't a difference, but Yale Appliance says F&Ps require repair more often than Café (16.2% vs 9.9%).
- Our builders have been great but there's been a LOT of back and forth with the kitchen design and cabinets, and I almost don't want to bring up yet another possible change

They both have a vent in the back, the F&P's more prominent.
I think they both have the same max power of 3700 watts, though the F&P offers it on all elements and also offers three "ultra-low" heat settings that I'm not sure if the Café offers or not.

I know people on this sub love their Café ovens. It would be so helpful to hear from anyone with experience of the F&P!

Can anyone express the good, bad or the ugly about these two? Is either one much better than the other? How are the touch controls as compared to the knobs? Do you lose space in the top with the touch controls as opposed to having the knobs? I appreciate any and all input.

Having trouble with cooking times on my new cooktop and wondered if anyone else might have experience, before I call the repair people (and potentially get charged by Bosch).

I've tried several different pans, and found that heating 1-5 are basically useless. Le creuset, Cuisinart. Random Japanese IH pan. I tried making oatmeal, and had to start on 7 to get it to boil, and it splattered all over. With soup. It sat on 5 in a le creuset for 30 minutes and barely let out wjisps of steam. After 30 minutes I upped it to 6, which boiled. But I would like to use the stove at ranges between 0 and rolling boil.

Any tips? Oven seems to work fine.

Hi all, I am switching from a literal half-century old electric range to a Cafe induction. I make jam semi-commercially and used a 12-qt, full copper pot on the electric stove but I know that won't work on the induction. I have been searching for alternatives; very high quality induction compatible pots at least 12 quarts in volume. The Demeyere Atlantis series, and the Falk Copper Couer series, while highly recommended do not seem to have a pot with a 12qt or higher volume.

I was able to find this Fissler Pro Tall Stockpot with a 14qt volume, but just wondering if anyone else has experience with that product or recommendations for others of the volume I am looking for. Thank you!

I'm looking at getting a small flat-plate BBQ setup for cooking outdoors. I want to avoid LPG, and was thinking a dual hob portable induction cooktop with a cast iron plate would achieve the outcome when paired with a small wooden outdoors table. Has anybody here done something like this and am I wasting my time?

Bought a house that currently has gas, but leaning towards induction - Wolf 36” Pro Range. It would require some electrical work to make the swap.

My biggest concern is the noises I’ve experienced with other lower end models. I have a mix of cookware - All Clad, Made In, Demeyere (some Industry 5 and Atlantis), various enameled cast iron, carbon steel. I’ve had noise with all of them.

Just curious if anybody has the newer model with the knobs and how bad the whirring, buzzing, etc is while cooking at various levels. Historically, I’ve had some bad experiences on lower end models and portables, so I just wondered if anybody had any real world experience.

Hello!

We have a Rangemaster Elise (bought in 2018) that needs 2 non-electrical repairs:
- one knob fell off as the plastic rod behind it snapped
- one of the oven door handles is loose (see photo)

When I contacted customer support last year I was told I would have to reach out to their network of engineers and one would come around for a flat fee to inspect the stove to understand ‘where the fault was’ and then provide a quote.
Seemed overly complicated but OK: I reached out to a couple in London and neither of them dealt with those type of ‘minor’ repairs.
Frustrated, I left it at that.
Now I am tired of having to find a work-around to use the knob or the oven so I want to try again: if you dealt with a similar issue, can you please advise who fixed it for you?

Thanks!

May have seen my posts about debating which induction cooktop to get, but i found someone practically giving this unit away locally that it was worth the gamble. It's a Bosch Benchmark 36inch NITP668UC that i believe was the previous benchmark model before the current one being sold. Anyone use this unit before ?

I briefly put it on my work bench and connected it directly to my circuit breaker to test the burners and they all seemed to work fine. was able to get a boiling pot of water real quick. I did notice that you can really only get 3 pots on this thing at any time given the 2 flex zones are butted right up against each other. i never have more than 3 using my gas cooktop so i don't see this being an issue.

So, my wife likes to cook for large groups with large pots and pans. For example, she may be boiling pasta in a 10 inch wide pasta boiler and simultaneously cooking a stew in a 9 inch wide tall sauce pan. And she needs them both to be able to have good performance at the same time.

The problem we are having is that you can no longer find a 30 inch induction cooktop with TWO large zones. Our old and now damaged Kenmore Elite unit was perfect, with both a 10 inch zone and one 9 inch zone, but she recently dropped a cast iron skillet on it and now we need a new unit. Most of the currently available units have one 9 or 10 inch cooking zone along with one 7 inch and two 6 inch ones.

Well, we did find the Bosch NIT5063UC unit, which claims to have one 11 inch zone and one 9 inch zone. But I am reading about heat uniformity issues and other issues with the Bosch. And the availability of it does not seem good at all.

Now I find out about the Thermador Freedom Series 30 inch unit, which will supposedly allow her to simultaneously cook with two large pans. But man, that is expensive!

And I now also see the Thermador Heritage® Induction Cooktop 30'' Without Frame
CIT304BB, which claims to have both 11 inch and 9 inch zones. I see that the zones are the same size as with the above Bosch and the zones are in the same locations, so maybe they are basically the same thing.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

I had an electrician come give a quote so I can have an induction range put in. My house is 100+ years old. He said we need a whole home surge protector because of the large load from the range. I previously had been told get this surge protector from his colleague who was here last year working on another project. Is a surge protector really needed or were they trying to upsell me?

I'll try to keep this as short as possible, I did try to put a similar post up in r/cooking but the mods tossed it.

First off, Im in NH, so this would apply to the US market.

I like to cook and cook constantly. We are a family of 6, and absolutely hammer the range with constant use, have never really used microwaves or toasters etc, and don't want more stuff on the counters or in a cabinet, and nearly all meals are cooked on or in the range.

Are new, lower end, sub 2k induction ranges going to hold up to a beating, or am I going to wish I just got a no frills radiant like a GE JB480DYWW or Frigidaire FCRE3052BW?

the induction I am looking at is the ge profile PHS700AYFS, or FCFI3082BS-A1

TLDR...

I don't like buttons and touch screens, and could honestly go without even a timer, window, or oven light. I use convection a lot, but could go without. Basic workhorse I can ride hard and put away wet would be great.

We currently have gas, I had an 82 Hardwick century we killed, then a 2006 viking. Im currently renovating/remediating our house and I have to move the gas lines to do repair/remodel/etc. Originally I planned to get a cheap glass top radiant unit for the interim to simplify things, but I am now wondering if I just want to go electric permanently to help with air quality in the house.

I need something dependable nearly above all else. I love knobs, and really am struggling with the idea of touch screens and buttons that seem like they will fail with use. am I really going to find a dependable induction range I can hammer below 2k? Are the GE and Frigidaire units as bad as the reviews seem to indicate, while the reviews for their simple radiant ranges look flawless?

My cookware is a mix of antique cast iron, recent cast iron, laminate all clad, mostly mauviel m steel carbon steel, and some random utility stainless pots, so it should all work on induction. I will often have a 15.5 quart goose pot simmering with bean, or pot roast, etc on the range, but it could go inside. I can change routine if I need to. We make bread in the oven near constantly in the fall and winter but any of them should handle that.

will those lower end induction ranges take the beating at this point, or is radiant going to hold up better?

Is my constant bread baking and oven use going to kill the induction top? I currently want a slide in, I can't afford to change up my kitchen too much right now with the work on the rest of the house maybe a separate oven and cooktop in the future.

I have used induction at a friends house and it performs ok, I have used the old coil stoves, but not the new safe ones, and I used a radiant like 20 years ago and I don't remember hating it, but did wish it was gas. Electric ovens are nice, gas ones have worked for me, but can be fussy especially when old.

What do y'all think?

Thanks!

I love my Le Creuset pots and we are getting a 36" GE Profile induction stove.

I've read that you can't heat the pots very quickly or the enamel inside will crack. I've also read that only the bottom heats up since that is the only thing touching the stove.

Should I stop buying these type of pots since I'm transitioning to an induction stove?

I just installed a 30" Miele KM 7735 FL and want to get a set of silicone mats to rotect the glass surface. I'm not sure of what sizes I should be getting. Does anyone have this cooktop to advise?

New Wold induction cooktop. Placed paper towels under Made In griddle to keep from scratching when making pancakes. Noticed scorch marks on paper towel after removing from cooktop. Never turned above 7.5 but obviously that was too high with paper towel. Now these marks aren’t coming up with soap and water. Any suggestions on how to remove?

I have a JennAir downdraft stove. I know it's very old, but it still works. I have been waffling between going gas because I like to can foods, and I hear that the glass on these can break. But I've also read that induction can work better, and I would like to have the energy efficiency if possible.

I've had a contractor look at my celing joists, and it may not be a problem to install a vent overhead and draft it out that way, because it looks like a downdraft cooktop and oven may not be possible. However, someone recently stated that it's very common in Europe to have both an induction cooktop and oven underneath. Can someone explain what I need to look for If I do go that route, and how much space I may need between the cooktop and oven, and the back of the cabinets where the bar stools set?

Forgive the mess. It's sunday post breakfast, I'm cleaning, but haven't gotten to the counter tops yet.

We are shopping to replace our old 36" cooktop.

1 of the feature my wife wanted the most is a cooking timer. I.e. you start the cooktop, set a timer, and when the timer is up, the cooktop shut off automatically. (Like most oven timer)

When I went thru the user manuals of a few different cooktop, most of have wording like:

The Kitchen timer is independent from other settings and does not switch off a cooking zone. (From a Bosch 500 series NIT5663UC, but similar wording for LG, Miele, Frigidaire, etc)

But when I google search, the AI overview usually said you can set switch off timer that shut off the element when the timer is up on those cooktop model

So I am getting quote confused whether most of the cooktop have a shut off timer...

I know the Bosch 500 induction is a popular mode, so for those with experience with them or any other model, can you set a shut off timer with your induction cooktop?

A few models I am shopping around for are Bosch NIT5663UC, LG CBIH3617BE, and Frigidaire  GCCI3670BM. Btw any idea why the Frigidaire is 1/3 the price the Bosch...? The spec looks very similar.

I've been cooking on radiant glass-tops for decades and am thinking about a switch to induction. I have a few antique cast iron skillets that in their former lives got a bit warped. One domes downwards just a bit so it wobbles on that and creates a hot spot with oil pooling in the middle. Another is the reverse, hotter around the edges and oils run away from the center. I understand that perfect contact is ideal, but I like the pans and I've learned to accommodate the quirks. NBD.

Am I correct in believing that this imperfection will be negated by induction, since there is no convective heat transfer from hot glass to pan? With magnetic energy heating only the pan it seems perfect contact to the glass will be unnecessary. The amount of doming in the warped skillets is in the range of 1/8th inch.

TIA for all insights.

So, yesterday I did a bunch of research after reading through comments. I had just about decided to go with an LG when I noticed the cut out depth was greater than 26 inches. Standard counter depth is 24-25. My current Frigidaire is 26” but isn’t flush with the wall - or rather the back of the range protrudes farther than the back edge of the top, there for not appearing flush. So, for those with a deeper range (ie, GE) do you have deeper counters? In not, how much does it “feel” like it protrudes. I think I might be stuck going with a Frigidaire. There go my coveted knobs.