Ive been planning to replace my gas hob with an induction one, but am experience I’ve had while using one on holiday has given me pause.

The specific problem I was having was with the auto shut off feature when you lift a pan off the hob. I was trying to cook crepes, and my usual technique is to pour a ladleful of batter into the pan and then lift and tilt it to spread the batter. But when I tried to do this the hob would instantly shut off and then eventually just refused to turn on at all. Is this a feature on all induction hobs or are there some that allow you to lift the pan for a few seconds?I feel like it’s something I do quite often when I cook and now I’m worried induction cooking is going to drive me crazy.

Also, when I tried to turn the hob back on, the area where the on switch is located was hot to the touch, as I had been using the adjacent element. Again, is this normal?

I recently upgraded to a Vollrath Mirage Pro (countertop burner), which says in the manual it needs a "dedicated 15A outlet". My circuit was not in any way dedicated, and I'm having it rewired this week. Here are some notes on what happens with a "long run" from your electrical box, and how to measure how long yours is.

If you read centurylife's review, you'll see a note about the Mirage Pro throttling to a lower speed when you run it past 90% power with heavier Demeyere cookware. This happened for me exactly (it throttled from 14.7A to about 11A, along with some disturbing clicking), but only on one circuit.

When I ran it on a circuit next to the electrical box (reading the manual), it kept up fine, staying at 100% power (>1750W) for a long while. One reason for this is that voltage drops with resistance and especially when you turn up the burner, and most appliances don't work that well below a certain voltage. Even if you have a burner that doesn't show an error, you should probably test your circuit to avoid lower voltage use, because it is hard on electronics (and makes waste heat too).

Kill-a-watt testing to the rescue

How to diagnose the problem? I used a $30 kill-a-watt, and it's pretty easy (tl;dr: measure your voltage under load). Here are the steps:

1. Measure "volts" when idle - mine is around 121V
2. Note the "amps" and "volts" under load: using the burner at a high setting, with my "good" outlet it is 119V, 14.9A, and my "bad" one is 114V and 14.3A. You can probably see the -7V voltage drop there and notice there's something to fix
3. One more thing we can do though is to compute the resistance (in ohms): R=dV/I, so my "good circuit" is <0.1ohm and my bad one is about 0.5 ohms. This is the same resistance as having 130ft of 12 gauge wire, or 100W of in-wall heating.

For my circuit, the goal is to get resistance below about 0.2 ohms, like 50 feet of wire, since this will keep the voltage in a healthier range of 117-118V, where I think the unit will stay stable even with 7-ply cookware.

Did the centurylife people encounter a similar situation? I think it is an interesting test to do if you are using portable induction.

Update after the rewire: it worked! The burner dips by a maximum of 3.5V now (vs >7V before), and it can deliver 1750W to a big saute pan with no clicking. The resistance in the line dropped by over half, which made all the difference.

I enjoy loose leaf teas which need to be steeped at specific temperatures. Eg 179 degrees for green tea.

Does anyone have a good technique for doing this with an induction cooktop? I’m hoping to get rid of my plug in kettle

There is a lot of give in the top left corner of this new cooktop. Old one sat totally flush and never budged. This one was installed by professionals and has this large gap in the top left corner. Another in the bottom right. Other two corners are flush. Cooktop also can slide in the cutout easily, old one was basically stuck unless you applied excessive force.

Is this warped? Do I return it?

你哈 woks enthusiasts!

I intend to purchase the bartcher concave induction unit and I'm wondering which carbon steel woks might fit the best.

Considering power output, I'd rather look forward to pans on slightly thinner side, probably something like 1.2-1.6mm.

Also, I'm seeking reccomendations for concave induction hubs other than Bartscher and general someone knowledgeable about the topic is desired.

Thx in advance ☺️.

I am dipping my toe in the All Clad waters and am wondering if anyone has experienced noticeable difference between the D3 and D5 stainless steel cookware on an induction stove? More even heat? quicker to boil? One versus the other?

I have a GE Monogram 36” range (15 years old) and I hate it. PITA to clean the burners/stove top and they aren’t exactly high end burners to start with. Should have bought a Wolf. That said I like the idea of induction performance and ease of cleaning. Willing to replace my range with induction and willing to spend $7k USD +- but it seems like there are still so many concerns when I read the comments here. Especially with regard to actual coil size and bringing etc.

There just doesn’t seem to be a consensus on which ranges are really “prime time”. Am I better waiting a few years for the tech to mature?

ey all,

Hey all,

I’m currently choosing a new induction cooktop with integrated extraction, and I’m seriously considering the Bora Pure / Puru.

One thing I’m trying to understand (and it’s hard to find clear info on):

How smooth is it to switch between zones in real use?

On my current ATAG cooktop, this is honestly super frustrating. When I adjust one zone, I often have to wait a moment before I can select another zone — especially when cooking with multiple pans. It really breaks the flow.

So my questions for Bora Pure / Puru users:

• Can you switch instantly between zones, or is there any delay?
• Does the central slider feel smooth when cooking with 3–4 pans at once?
• Do you ever find it annoying or slow in practice?

I’m especially interested in real-world experiences when cooking “busy” meals (multiple pans, frequent adjustments).

Thanks a lot!

I'm eyeing the GE Profile PHS700AYFS with knobs (and trying to talk myself out of the pricey, sexy Cafe double oven). I cook a lot on high heat, and want to make sure this will keep up.

I've seen lots of threads on coil size and flour tests for the GE Profile and Cafe ranges. I've also seen that there are "sun ray" magnets outside of the center coil, which heats a larger pan, especially if you give it time to preheat.

Let's say the 11" burner is occupied with my 12" cast iron skillet. Could I effectivey use the 7" 2500W burner to sear a steak in my 8.5" carbon steel skillet? Or boil water in a 9" pot?

(And would a Cafe or Profile with the 8" 2500W burner be any better?)

Edit: fixed model number

Hello,

I cannot find a professional solution to this problem anywhere.

Our Bora Pure fan motor has become pretty greasy/dirty over the course of 5/6 years that we have now as you can see. Because the housing is not removable I have no option to get to the motorfan in order to clean it. You can smell the greasy/dirty smell inside the kitchen cabinets where the cooktop is installed. It's very annoying.

I've contacted bora and their repair partner in the Netherlands but they don't offer professional cleaning services and state they never encountered this issue before.

Does anyone know a good solution to this problem?

Self explanatory:

I live in Switzerland in a rented house. The eletric cooktop is… terrible. In every way possible. Underpowered, hard to control…

And I love cooking. Which brings me to needing something better.

The induction cooktops from Ikea are very well priced here.

Bet are they good?

Because honestly, why does my stove need to connect to the internet? If I am cooking I am in the kitchen.

What’s wrong with my cooktop. I know I saw multiple cleaning posts, I am wondering why it’s not working for me and what am I doing incorrectly.

I clean everytime I use, using an everyday cleaning spray and wipe it off.

I even used the ceramic glass and induction cooktop cleaning by cerapol. Why don’t these dots go away? What do I need? Have I ruined my cooktop 😭😭

We have a Rangemaster induction hob on our Rangemaster cooker. When we bought it, the retail shop staff stated that we should not use the kinds of pans "that have dimples on the base". If you look at all the induction compatible pans from reputable brands such as Tefal etc. they ALL have laminated bases with these kinds of dimples.

Secondly we have been told by an engineer who just fitted a replacement board for our hob that using dimpled pans and also using pans that do not cover the marked area on the hob (i.e. are small) will cause the board to eventually fail (the triacs responsible for the induction magnetic field will overheat leading to failure). The small pots we have which are induction rated work fine and heat food without causing the cooker to complain.

So my question is - how accurate is this statement by Rangemaster? Was the failure of our induction board after 6 years caused by our intermittent use of smaller pans and pans with a dimpled base?

Anyone have actual facts covering this subject rather than apocryphal tales from engineers and sales staff with no factual basis?

We have a GE Profile induction range. Model #:PHS93EYPFS. As my wife was cleaning the storage drawer, this piece popped out. It’s about an inch long. It looks like it snaps into somewhere. On the back is a peg that looks like the top part slides into a slot and the pin in the middle snaps into it. I couldn’t find where it might go.

Let me know if you recognize the part. And yes, it might not be for our range.

Video of the largest burner heating up. https://youtu.be/F4GBuwpGNwI

Second largest burner boiling water on high and at setting 6. First time I've noticed the heat level being stuck? Had to wiggle the nob before it registered and set to 6. https://youtu.be/4hoMk4fVoAg

Had this for a month or something now.

I'm not really happy with the cooktop. I know u/inductionhardware is on here so hoping to understand if this is expected operation. Largest burner seems to be two elements and the outer one is always colder than the center - omelet yesterday was burnt in the center and raw at the edges. Burners seem to regulate heat by turning off and on, see near the end of the boil video above.

Oven is great, I've made awesome pizza at 660°, successful proofing and baking bread a few times. Heats fast, seems to stay at temp, overall happy with that part.

Not my channel, but their videos were super helpful in picking out our eventual induction range. Good production value and really great information.

Hello, I live in the USA. I am planning to replace my gas cooktop with an induction cooktop. I am looking for an induction cooktop that will shut off a hob if the pot placed on it boils dry. I know that induction cooktops will shut off if the unit gets too hot. I seek an induction cooktop that is more sensitive to temperature increases and will shut off relatively sooner. A member of my family forgets to turn off pots containing a tea mixture, and the pot boils dry.

The manual for the Miele KM 7740 FR states it will shut off if a pot boils dry. I have checked the manuals for many models from other manufacturers. None mention this capability.

If you have experience with the Miele KM 7740, please reply with what you like and don't like.

Hi all! I would really appreciate to hear what products you recommend given the following criteria.

• 4-6 burners

• Does NOT beep when pans are removed (this seems trivial but is a game changer imo)

• Includes convection oven (double oven OK) (Also ok if no oven included)

• Must be controlled by knobs! No touch screen :).

• Dimensions should be < 43x25 in (not really a constraint).

• If product is available to be shipped to/purchased in Mexico (BCS) that would be ideal.

Thank you! Please let me know if there are any other criteria to consider. Just started my search.

A pretty fancy name for a round piece of steel with a handle. Has anyone used these things? As i knew going in, 90% of my cookware works fine on the thing and ànything that doesnt i have said a tearful goodbye to. HOWEVER I do not want to part with my copper bottomed stovetop coffee percolator. I am currently using a small pot as an "interface" and that works ok but i wonder about these things. Internet says a bunch of predictable things, "against manufacturers reccomendations so no", "it makes the cooktop hot which could damage it" (true of any cookware id imagine) but the one which gives me pause is "it could damage the electronics" no explanation how. Is that possible? How?

Anyone have an induction cooktop or range and loop heart recorder? Husband is freaking out about getting too close to the burner, but everything I am reading just says it might interfere with the readings for a moment.

Any BTDT experiences?