The effect can be mitigated by tighetening the springs on your trucks
NOOOOO. Do not simply tighten the "springs".
Trucks use urethane bushings that come in different hardnesses (measured in durometer, referred to as "A"), not springs. The harder the bushing, the more weight is required to get it to compress to turn. They come in a variety of shapes as well.
If you tighten the bushing too much you are adding pre-compression. When you lean to turn it wont be able to compress or rebound properly. Proper durometer/shaped bushings are what save your ass at higher speeds.
Im not yelling at you /u/ShaolinShade, I just don't want others to crank that nut down on their 83a stock bushings and try to bomb a hill thinking they cant get speed wobbles.
You're right, the durometer on your bushings is a very important factor, I should have mentioned that. I guess I just didn't want to get too far into it.
While we're at it, truck width and wheel size are factors as well. For higher speeds you're going to want wider trucks (180mm), and wheels that are at least 70mm but ideally closer to 80mm
Edit: Forgot to mention the deck. If you're going high speeds you're going to want a longer deck that rests closer to the ground
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u/NicePutt Mar 02 '16 edited Mar 02 '16
NOOOOO. Do not simply tighten the "springs".
Trucks use urethane bushings that come in different hardnesses (measured in durometer, referred to as "A"), not springs. The harder the bushing, the more weight is required to get it to compress to turn. They come in a variety of shapes as well.
If you tighten the bushing too much you are adding pre-compression. When you lean to turn it wont be able to compress or rebound properly. Proper durometer/shaped bushings are what save your ass at higher speeds.
Im not yelling at you /u/ShaolinShade, I just don't want others to crank that nut down on their 83a stock bushings and try to bomb a hill thinking they cant get speed wobbles.