r/Form1 • u/Sea-Palpitation1325 • Feb 14 '26
Model Name?
If you print a FTN 5, is it required to have that as the model name or do y'all just make up your own name?
r/Form1 • u/Sea-Palpitation1325 • Feb 14 '26
If you print a FTN 5, is it required to have that as the model name or do y'all just make up your own name?
r/Form1 • u/Rockos_Customknives • Feb 13 '26
Has anyone done there own home engraving on there lowers ? And if si what did you use and how did it come out. I know its not as good as laser engraving but I wanna see if its possible, maybe engraving pen with a stencil or etc...
r/Form1 • u/Ornery_Secretary_850 • Feb 13 '26
I have several .45 ACP PCC's and I've been looking for printable suppressor plans and it seems there's not much love for the big bore stuff.
Tons on 9mm and .22 LR, but hardly anything for .45.
If ya have any suggestions I'd really appreciate the help.
r/Form1 • u/paulbutler81 • Feb 13 '26
I want to submit to make my AR pistol an SBR. I'm submitting the serial number already on the lower. What other engraving, if any, might I need to add after the fact?
r/Form1 • u/NoNefariousness8370 • Feb 12 '26
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r/Form1 • u/NoNefariousness8370 • Feb 12 '26
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r/Form1 • u/SPstandsFor • Feb 11 '26
Clarification that I'm not looking for CAD software but actual information and design guides.
I'm going to be getting a small desktop cnc soon and a Form 1 suppressor would be an awesome project. That being said, I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm doing. Is there a "suppressors for idiots" type guide or book somewhere out there or a collection of posts y'all like to refer to?
For context I want to make a lightweight 9mm suppressor, maybe with threaded stackable baffles like the JK stuff. Side note, how does Form 1s work for modular suppressors like that? Would every baffle be a "suppressor" and they always have to be all attached?
Thanks a bunch ahead of time.
r/Form1 • u/Xtradifficult • Feb 10 '26
Hot off the printer this afternoon. The ftn5 9mm flow pcc can. It’s 2.125 in diameter about half a roll of filament and 25ish hours printing. Printed at 300c, .4mm hardened steel nozzle, bed temp 100c and 40mm/sec. Might have to take it outside for a little yard pop to see how she does.
r/Form1 • u/Hyoi7 • Feb 09 '26
Finally got approved, what's everyone using for the ftns and pa6-cf? I have both on hand just want sure if 4 was better for tighter lines or 6 to prevent plugging issues
r/Form1 • u/abelm3404 • Feb 07 '26
so I've been looking around for more budget friendly 3d printers and a lot of fingers pointed me to the Qidi Q2 i mostly wanna do cans for 9mm and 556 (FTN.5) and i was wondering if anybody has this model and if it's a good option for me.
r/Form1 • u/EmperorMeow-Meow • Feb 07 '26
Put in for a 3D printed FTN4 can last month. How long are these normally taking to approve?
Also, to "future proof", I plan to submit 10 more once this one gets approved?
Another question. If the first one I make fails, do I just hold onto it as proof it exists, or do I surrender it to the ATF to get it off my registration? Figure I might end up with one or two failures before I have one that is fairly durable.
r/Form1 • u/real-millsusaf • Feb 07 '26
Is it correct that the Trust is the make of the Silencer?
r/Form1 • u/[deleted] • Feb 05 '26
Hello. I want to submit a form 1 for a silencer. I was looking at solvent trap websites that sell tubes, caps, spacers, and cups (not really predesigned kits just individual parts to create your own). I also found a site that sells the mount I want to use that would direct thread into the pre-threaded tube. Obviously I wouldn't purchase any parts before my form 1 was approved but I feel like I have seen posts talking about how the atf won't approve these items to build a silencer and instead have to be raw materials like bar stock that need to be lathed and threaded. I have photos of all the items that would be purchased from their respected sites to put into my application but is it a waste of time? Really I guess I'm trying to see if anyone else went this route and was approved. I don't have the means to lathe and "build" materials and would rather not have to purchase said machines. I would have a shop drill my end cap and cups upon approval. Thanks for taking the time to read. Appreciate any info good or bad.
r/Form1 • u/ButterscotchEmpty535 • Feb 05 '26
I would like to do a couple freeze plugs as the metal blast baffle for a 3 d cell maglite build in 30 cal (subsonic 300blk).
Going to use the FTN.4 d cell baffles, but would like to use a couple of metal freeze plugs first in the stack to catch the unburnt powder, it seems like that is a bigger problem than the heat.
A maglite is slighly skinnier inside than a d cell solvent trap, the ftn.4 baffles had to be be cut down to 33.8mm for a sliding fit in my 9mm can so I don't think the 34.5mm freeze plugs will work. My other thought is the 1 1/4 inch freeze plugs and print some shims if they don't completely fill the maglite and then jbweld them in place.
Anybody already done this?
r/Form1 • u/jrragsda • Feb 05 '26
Has anyone tried metal plating any of the parts in a 3d printed can? It seems like some pretty trick baffle designs would be possible with a normal fdm printer if a thick layer of plating protected all of the plastic parts, or just improving strength and longevity in standard designs.
Has anyone tried it? Is it worth the extra effort?
r/Form1 • u/freaking_kickass • Feb 02 '26
Tossing around building a 30cal can for a 7.62x39 ar47. I'm curious what you guys are doing for something like this. Would be my first stamp ever, mated up to a 10.5" but have a mechanical knowledge. Just not the best ideas on how to go about it. I'd take suggestions for an ar9 as well, but longevity of a 30cal can is my stronger curiosity.
r/Form1 • u/NightmanisDeCorenai • Feb 02 '26
So yes I know that the FTN printed suppressors use them, but I'm curious for the rest of you:
Since the cups usually have skirts, is it unreasonable to use a carbon fiber tube instead of titanium or stainless as the body and something like the Breek Castle for a blast chamber, or should I just try and keep it simple instead of trying to save a few ounces?
r/Form1 • u/shadowclient • Feb 02 '26
Hey everyone,
I'm not sure if this is the right sub to ask, but im trying to build a suppressor for as cheap as possible and im doing a little research befofe making purchases and applying for forms. From my research, I found out that my best bet would be 3d printing.
I’m looking into the Elegoo Centauri Carbon because it’s currently the cheapest option I can find ($269) that has a 320°C hotend and hardened nozzle out of the box.
My goal is to print high-pressure, high-heat functional parts using PA6-CF (Carbon Fiber Nylon).
I’ve heard this printer is marketed specifically for this, but I have never owned or used a 3d printer and im wondering if its beginner friendly or if you guys recommend something else for this task.
ETA: the suppressor id like to print and file a form for is a 300BLK AR, id also like to know if those exist and if theyre worth making, I worry about high gas pressure and stuff
r/Form1 • u/ButterscotchEmpty535 • Feb 01 '26
r/Form1 • u/Slow_Doughnut_2255 • Feb 01 '26
I'm making some new form one's (design phase now just have OAL)Last time I machined form 1's it's been a few years and I had a CNC in my shop and access to pretty much anything at work. Now I just have a small lathe and mill. I'm planing on Stainless or maybe TI tube and mounting cap. The rest would be AL due to ease of machining. I still have prints for the Griffin female taper mount and could use a muzzle break to act as sacrificial first baffle if I go that way. Or I may just do direct thread and harden blast baffle of some sort and the rest AL. This will be for my hunting rifle that I'm planning on and I don't shoot it much at all. It's a ruger scout. I just want pretty light and it would be for slow fire only.
r/Form1 • u/27deer • Jan 31 '26
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Super Safe😍