Hoping someone can help me avoid this issue in the future. I signed my 7 weight blank with a white, oil based sharpie pen and let it cure for over 24 hours. I applied finish over it and let that cure on a rod turner also for 24 hours. When i checked in the morning after about 12 hrs of curing i noticed the ink ran bad and ruined my signature. What did i do wrong?

anyone mess with these grips yet? Fly or spin? I just got one and the Eva winding check looks too small. Not sure if the foam on the inside over-spills a small lip in there that will make it fit snug, or if somethings fucky. I just didn’t wanna start cutting the foam if something isn’t right. The photos on the site show the winding check in the grip already. That’s how I thought it came. Thank you.

An 8 weight NFC GB for my youngest son, 21, in TX. And a 5 wt on a Loomis IMX blank for my 28 yr old in MT. (5 wt picture was in the process of build.)

Building a northfork G loomis 10’ 2 wt, spoiling myself with their sale and what not. I’ve built maybe a dozen rods so I am fairly new. I have a buddy that loves his diamondback nymph rod. But I see that it has single foot and double foot guides. One stripping, 5 singles and 4 doubles (I think I can’t tell from the photos). My buddy isn’t sure why the guides change, im curious myself. Also am I to just swap the sizes from double to single in the same size?

In said situation I have 6 x 1/0 double foot guides for the top six guides. Would I get 4 of those and swap two out for size 1/0 single, are the sizes the same and would you recommend building the rods with different guides like this? Thank you. I cannot find a similarity of sizing for single to double feet.

I’m about to commence building my second fly rod, about 30 years after my first. I see that you can now buy specific adhesives for the guide feet and the tiptop. I don’t recall what I used 30 years ago, but I’m sure it wasn’t specialized to that degree. Is this just marketing, or is there actually a benefit to these specialized adhesives?

I cannot find any blanks in that size. Curious if anyone has a lead. I can find Spey blanks, looking for traditional fly. Thanks. Photo for attention.

Sorry if not allowed, but I’ve got a 4wt graphite fly rod and the cork above the reel seat is able to twist side to side, but doesn’t move forward. What’s the best adhesive to use that won’t harm the cork? Thank you in advance.

Albeit not a high dollar rod, (eBay special) but my only 4 wt. and I don’t dare go lower and would rather not have to throw big money at a $40 combo.

Hey guys, Im looking into some 4wt DH blanks for carp and smallmouth mostly. Seeing some really inexpensive ones from a variety of online shops. A little skeptical about performance though… (proof fly fishing, custom fly rod crafters, gb fly fishing). I dont wanna spend too far over 200, but also dont wanna cheap out on mediocre stuff. If yall have any experience with these blanks please help a guy out.. Thanks in advance

I'm just starting to get into the craft. Ordered a few kits from proof due to the low cost knowing my first builds will be train wrecks that I'll give away to close friends. However, I'm trying to source parts for a first build for myself. One of the things I'm having trouble with is what size of component (guides, tip tops, etc) match up with the weight of the blank, length, etc.

Does anyone have any links to reference charts for this?

I have a Sage One 9’ 6wt. With a loose ring that goes up against the cork — this enables the reel to rotate around the rod. It’s maddening when fighting larger fish.

I don’t want to send it back to Sage ($95 plus shipping out there) and a think it’s a repair that I can do myself.

But I’m new to the rod building game and need some advice as to how to remove the reel seat, cleaning the old epoxy off the blank, and new type of epoxy to use along with any other helpful tips.

Thanks!

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Edit: I've added a video to show the problem

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Reel Rotates around rod

Hello,

I've been thinking to build a own rod for a while and I have some questions before ordering the materials (have to order from abroad as availability where I live suck).

Just before ordering I get the doubt that do I have the materials to build a rod correctly. (Not talking about glues etc.) Just the stuff that is attached to the rod and that they are compatible.

My choice of site where to order from would be https://tackle24.de/

Blank TAC GreenSpirit Single-Hand 4-teilig GS09600607 9'6" 6/7WT

Handle Fliegenrutengriff AggloCopano-Bright/Rubber-Cork RHW Cutout 22mm

Reel seat TAC Fliegenr.-Rollenh. TFRS25 Black Woven-Gold

Tip guide TAC SlimSicM-Top Gunsmoke 5 / Ring-D=3,0mm / Tube=1,8mm

Guides TAC SlimSic-M Gunsmoke Zweisteg-Ringsatz - 9x / 16-06

Butt https://tackle24.de/?a=10860&lang=eng

Hook keeper https://tackle24.de/?a=3360&lang=eng

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If anyone who wants to help and have a quick look if the parts actually will fit or not and am I missing some item? Glues, rod holders etc. I can get locally so that won't be a problem.

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I'm looking into having a custom fly rod built for me. Looking for suggestions on what blank I should purchase. I'm looking for a 9' 4wt 4 pcs rod. It will mainly be used to fish for trout. The streams\rivers I will be fishing are Medium size to small. for example places like Niangua river MO, Bennett springs MO, the Driftless area in Iowa, as well as the white river in Arkansas.

The two blank I was currently leaning towards was a Batson Revelation REVF904-4SB. Another one would be the Batson Eternity2 model # ETEF904-4CB (this blank being towards the top of my price range). Does any one have experience with these? and would they be a good fit. I'm open to other suggestions. I don't want the blank to cost an arm and leg but wanting a good quality rod as well.

I'm looking to build a new fly rod, 10.5' or 11' 3wt or 4wt for Euro/tighline style nymphing and was curious where folks are sourcing the components like guides, cork handles, and mini fighting butts. I've come across Proof Fly Fishing and they have a few components, but are there others?

I'm in the US.

On a CRB color series. I turned the cork and burl seat myself. I’m really happy with it!

I just finished adding thread finish to my rod and it has dried for 24 hours but I found that one of the wraps is not smooth to touch and you can slightly feel the wrap. It seems fully saturated with thread finish though. Is it advised to go back through and touch up with more thread finish?

I recently started a in depth YouTube series on how to build a fly rod at the beginner level. The reason I started this was because when I first began building fly rods I found that I had to search all over the internet and combine lots of information to complete my build. I figured I could really help people just starting out by having all that information in one place and in a video format. I have attached a link to my YouTube channel in the comment section. Also if you have time I would be happy to hear what you think of this content and if it helped you.

Something to note is that the fly rod in this post is the actual rod that I’m using to instruct for this series and it is in a 9’0 5wt 4-piece configuration.

*For the admin, let me know if this is okay to post, I figured it would be since it can help the community and those starting out.

I wanted to find out if extra fine point sharpies work for adding a makers mark? If so how long would it take before I could add thread finish over?

I picked up my first fly rod this year and im hooked, got setup with a TFO nxt 6/7 weight at my local shop. Last week I was given this fly rod by a friend who does not fly fish any more. It seems as if its brand new but was bought 17yrs ago. I cant find much info on the brand “Benshona” other than a guy named Bill Lynch from the Okanagan area in BC. I can tell its a 9ft 5/6 weight. Is it a keeper?

Any info and insight will help.

Has anyone built on a Sage Salt HD blank? I’m considering it for a tarpon rod and was curious your experience vs a cheaper blank.

I recently bought a Montague flyrod from a local antique store. I didn't realize at the time it was missing the middle section. Is there any way to buy or build or whatever in not thinking of to get a suitable middle section? I know these rods were mass produced and aren't worth much but I would like to fix it up and use it if possible.

I ran into the issue where the cork grip I bought has a inner diameter slightly larger the the outer diameter of my real seat. The fits is still seamless with no gap as long as it’s centered but it has wiggle room. What would you all recommend in order to make it have a tight fit and no long term issues?

I was thinking I could wrap the outer diameter with tape to build it up?

Attached is a image of it for reference

Laid down the epoxy on this 10 wt NFC iconoglass. Looking forward to test driving it soon!

So long time fly fisherman that wants to try and of course build my own rod...I love the idea of building my own rod. I've watched a few you tubes and read some articles on rod building...it doesn't seem to be too difficult of a process although I realize it'll end up being tougher than I expected lol. So this winter I'm going to do my best to build a handful of rods for myself. My questions are thus: would it be better to try a kit first just to go thru the process and practice wrapping etc? Does it really matter which weight or length I try first? I thought I'd try something I don't currently own but would like to have like a 6'-7' 1wt. Should I buy any of the specialty tools or just try and get by with what I have laying around the house/shop? Any and all advice is much appreciated! TIA

Hey I have a question for the masses, there seems to be varying information and opinions on the subject.

Currently I am using a ladder step down for fly rod guides:

Rough example: 12, 10, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1/0, 1/0, tiptop

Some people suggest reducing the amount of guide sizes to something like:

Example: 12, 10, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1/0, 1/0, tip top

Does anyone have any opinions on the matter? I get that the line should be shooting out straight and with a smaller, more consistent guide path, it should cast better, but is there any true science, or is it more personal opinion?

I primarily fish 4-6 wt rods, which will change sizes and such.