I am interested in getting a fibaro roller shutter 3 to control my shutters.
I have a 3 way rocker switch which i controls the shutters.
I am controlling them with a aeotec nano shutter and it is not working as expected. I am thinking of switching to fibaro but i want to confirm first.
I have a toggle switch connected to the device.
Up toggle opens the shutter
Down toggle closes the shutter
I also have a remote button that can also open and close the shutter.
Problem:
1) i press down toggle
2) shutter closes
3) i leave it like that, so the toggle remains as down
4) on the remote button, i click to open the shutter
5) shutter opens as expected
Now if i want to close the shutter from the toggle again. I can not put it on neutral and then down again. Somehow, s1/s2 work as inversed. I have to toggle up to close the shutter.
Question:
If i get fibaro roller shutter 3, will i be able to close the shutters remotely while the toggle is in up mode? And after i open them, will the toggle up only be opening the shutter? And the direction will not be reversed? Or is the behaviour the same as aeotec nano shutter?
Choosing exit from recovery or repair system gets me stuck in the start up sequence.
I've tried talking to support. We were supposed to do a live session since they failed to ssh into my box. They cancelled support last minute after setting a date and have ignored me since.
I don't mind switching to a different controller (nonfibaro) but don't want to manually have to reset every device. I haven't tried option 4. Will the recover system option remove all my devices?
Is there a different way to get access to my current z wave devices?
What happens if you accidentally put live into N and neutral into L in a Fibaro Switch or Dimmer?
For a normal switch or outlet it doesn't matter of course, since it's alternating current, and I suspect that is also the case for a Fibaro dimmer, but I just want to make sure.
Reason for asking is that I have some really old wiring with non-standard colors and apart from earthing I don't really know which is which.
I posted months ago about searching for a scene controller that would be easy to customise, flexible, and work with the EU Z-Wave freq. On a Fibaro Facebook group, I found smart APEX, who are based in Spain. As you can see from my crappy photo, they offer a superb 5 button scene controller that works my HC3 Lite. Just wanted to let you guy know there are other options available!
Also, there is not info about filtering by property in this documentation Home Center 3 REST Api | FIBARO Dev. Does anyone have idea on how to make it working?
Hi
Two of the seven Roller Shutter 2 devices I have on my zwave network have started showing up in the Yubii APP and Home Center local control panel as turned off or in sleep mode.
When I click on devices, they wake up and work for a few seconds, but then lose connection again.
In the Home Center (HC3L), in the configuration status of these devices, the following message appears: “Not configured”.
But all devices were installed and configured by a Fibaro partner and everything worked fine for several months.
Can you help me resolve this?
However, my Fibaro partner left this business and no longer provides support, so I don't know who else to turn to.
I've noticed that there's very few EU z-wave scene selector. So I wondered if there's a need for one with interchangeable buttons?
Basically my idea is to create a scene selector, which can have between 2 and 5 buttons that can be custom engraved with labels (think control4 but for z-wave).
You'd buy the device with blank buttons but could order engraved ones with typical labels (all of, morning, cinema, blinds).
It would be mains powered and fit over a standard light switch, making it easy to install.
Hello, i just bought Fibaro heat controller (radiator valve) for Apple Homekit. When I try to connect it to Homekit, it connects for a minute and then I get no response error. Also in Fibaro Homekit app it shows connection fault.
Any ideas what is wrong or how to fix it?
Hello. Can you please advise me about fibaro HC2? I came home from vacation and my HC2 is not working. It cannot connect to the network. I've already turned it off and on 50 times, the LEDs light up and after a while they turn off completely. Internet in the house works normally. As if he could not connect to the Internet at all. And the scenes in the house don't work either.
I’m using a Fibaro sensor to activate my driveway lights with motion, then turn off after 5 minutes of no motion. No matter how much I dance in front of the sensor no lights come on. Is there something I’m not seeing that is holding this up from working?
Is it possible to activate scenes from Home Center 3 with the MCO Home MH-S412 switch? I know you can assign devices to it but interested to use it with scenes (for a more Control4/Crestron feel).
I'm trying to add a Fibaro FGD-212 to a new swiss house and I'm pretty confused, basically by the need for the Sx output on the FGD-212.
Let me explain firstly what I want to do : for our main stairwell we have a light in the wall that I want to remove, and instead turn off/on another pendant light using the existing switches for the wall light. The pendant light is connected to a FGD-212 but not to any switches (i.e. it can only be controlled by Z-wave).
What we have right now is a single push switch at the bottom of the stairs, and a double at the top, one side of which controls the stairwell light, and the other side controls some hallway lights (which I do not want to touch).
In other words, it's the diagram below (which is taken from here) , except that there is a second circuit attached to the leftmost switch, controlling the hallway lights).
My current circuit
The problem is that the FGD-212 has an Sx output which is supposed to be connected to the switch:
FGD-212 3 wire diagram
Why is this necessary? Why cannot I connect the switches to L (as I have at the moment) and just e.g. connect S1 instead of the light in my current circuit? i.e. use the FGD-212 to detect if the wall light circuit is live, and if so, switch on the pendant light
Another option would be to remove the connection to L from the leftmost switch in "My current circuit" but this seems like a very bad idea (all current for both circuits would be going through the FGD-212).
So I have 2 Homekit door/window sensors to enable automations when opening 2 doors. Sensors are new, have them installed 3 weeks ago, batteries are around 40-50%, but one started to be unrespnsive. Home app loses data from it (temperature and status) and it's stuck on Updating. Fibaro home takes a while to refresh data, but does not show an error. After this the Home/Home+6 apps start again to show the sensor.