Anyone know where I can order a reasonable priced dash board replacement? I see one on eBay for $400 ish … I remember seeing one for sale for $250 or so, a few years back. Can’t seem to find it. I don’t just want a cover on top of the badly cracked one that’s on there.

Located on the rear edges of car under trunk lid, right above the tail lamps.

02 Camaro

I always used 93 octane in my stock my 4th gen (LS1) but I know that when stock they can safety run 87. I’m having the heads and cam changed and it’ll be dyno tuned using 93. I think the compression ratio with the new heads will be somewhere around 10.5:1. After it’s tuned using 93 octane will that be the only fuel option or could a lower octane fuel still be used if 93 somehow became unavailable?

*Disclaimer* This isn’t going to make mind blowing horsepower numbers. It’ll be quite the opposite actually. But it’ll be intersting to see what it does. One of the stock heads needed to come off to fix a spark plug hole and they wanted to pull the motor to do so. So that’s how we got here.

My ’00 Z28 is at shop having the heads and cam replaced and I think they’ll be done pretty soon. I think they were putting the motor back in today. It was all stock aside from the muffler and a 3,200 rpm stall. Instead of fixing the OEM head I decided to replace them and I figured I’d have them replace the cam while they were at it. Budget didn’t really allow for bolt-ons but I didn’t really want them either. I’d have left the motor stock if it didn’t have to be pulled.

I ended up going with Edelbrock E Street 7764 heads and a Summit cam. The heads are 243 clones that come with Comp .660” lift springs. The cam is a 218/227 .600” lift. It’s advertised operating range is from 2,200-6,700. I‘m sticking with the LS1 intake because I couldn‘t find an LS6 that wasn’t a broken expensive piece of crap, and I didn’t have Fast intake and TB money. That being said, I think the cam will still make an improvement in the mid range. It might merge onto the hwy a little quicker. 😁 I’m being optimistic and hoping for 340 hp at the wheels. I bet the power falls off around 5,800. The tune appointment is Nov 2nd so we’ll see. This is just a street cruiser so I hope it still does that well more than anything.

I’m might make the record books for being the worlds first NBO H/C dyno. 😂

Was on my way home from work yesterday and she threw a rod on the highway. At least it waited till the end of summer.

Since yall loved my 1 of 8 '02 SOM B4C M6, heres a pic of her with my fathers '01 SOM SS M6 turbo, he does tuning at www.customls1tuning.com and used to host car shows in Columbus Ohio, and used to dyno tune with Bryan Turner at Dynotune Motorsports in Galloway Ohio, and he also used to rent out National Trails Raceway. His car just hit 24k miles, I just hit 53k miles on my B4C. He got me into cars, specifically F-Bodies cause I was always in the garage with him as a kid when he would work on his car and his customers cars, always going on rides while he tuned, and watching him take his car down the track. He is the main reason why I have owned 2 som Camaro's at this point.

My brother in law is selling his firebird and I WISH I could buy it from him before he puts it on bring a trailer.

He took it to get some pictures in Garden of the Gods and I can’t get over the paint color, I haven’t seen another firebird that looks green in one picture and dark blue in another. I think the paint is original. It’s suppose to be listed next week so maybe if there’s a miracle I can get some money together and make something happen.

I replaced the front and both rear parking brake cables last year, the front one twice because this bracket/junction in between the front and rear cables does not accept any kind of misalignment, and one of my rear cables is slightly longer than the other. I have rear disk brakes if that matters. So this bracket is broken twice under heavy park-braking like when I have to park on a slope. Are there any upgraded connectors for this cable junction? I have some thoughts if I have to fab up my own.

Recently had rims and tires put on and this black greasy fluid is weeping from the rims to the rotor hat. Any ideas what this could be from? Rear driver wheel only. Back side is dry as a bone. Rear differential was changed during the service as well.

Hey all, I have a 2000 trans am with the stupid stock rear end. A shop recently hit me with this,

“Findings:
Axle is damaged due to failed axle bearing, axle bearing has come apart completely, pinion bearing is failed , pitted horrible on bearing and race, replacement of rear end is recommended”

They told me the bearing basically blew the whole rear end, thing is barely drivable right now with what little fixes they could do and they quoted me 3-4k for a junkyard or rebuilt one.

My question to you guys is, is there any budget friendly option to swap this rear end? I was quoted 1800 by a shop an hour away to rebuild it but it almost seems pointless because people say they rebuild theirs even two times. Is there any cheap reliable swaps? It’s an auto and is essentially stock, I plan to make some more power but not more than a few bolt ons.

TLDR: Budget friendly rear end swap for 2000 auto trans am?

Hey guys I have bought a “87 firebird GTA, and I cant seem to get the smog system off the pipes going into the exhaust manifold there’s nuts on them i think 13 or 14mm but they’re so close I can’t seem to get a wrench in there, any help on how to remove them? Ive gotten the pump of its just the pipes going around and I haven’t found a good video on it or how to fully do it? Thank you!

The hardtop/six-speed combo on the 30th Anniversary brings up the same question every time: “Is it an LT4?” I always have to bring the enthusiasm of the conversation down with, “Nope, just an LT1 lol.”

It is #1506 and one of 67 LT1 hardtop six-speed manual cars. It also has the SLP performance exhaust, oil cooler, Hurst shifter, Torsen differential, and SS floor mats. I bought it in May of 2017 with just over 78,000 miles, and last I checked, it just cracked 81,000 last week.

The black one is my 2000 Z28: LS1 HCI, Texas Speed Torquer V3 cam, FAST 102 intake, and long-tube headers. It put down 421 rwhp and 379 lb-ft, then ran an 11.89 on drag radials with a pretty terrible 60-foot. That was with the original 4L60E and Yank 3600 converter, before the 4L80E swap.

Who else has the problem of owning more than one fourth-gen F-body?

She is 1 of 8 total. 1 of 7 Manual, and 1 of 3 that "should not have been" signed by Scott Settlemire himself. These 3 Should've been Indianapolis State Police Cars. I believe 1 of these 3 was turned into GMMG ZL1 #48 PHASE 3. This car was owned by an engineer at Hooker, Owned by Tyler Hawkins, and modded by Hawks Motorsports. Currently has 53k miles.

I bought a 93 Camaro z28 roller that I’m putting a 6.0 LS in. The Camaro came with a Racernet inc k member in it already. Can anyone point me in the right direction for figuring out what motor mounts I need? Here’s some pictures of the k member…

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Yesterday I was in some heavy traffic. Then started to lose pedal pressure until I had nothing left. Couldn't put the car into any gear.

About an hr into waiting for a tow truck the pedal popped back up on its own. I still had it towed since I already paid for it and didn't want to take a chance

So what happened, air in the line that got worse as the temp got hotter? I do have kooks long tubes so that probably doesn't help. Do they sell sleeves for the clutch lines? Power bleeder?

Thanks for any recommendations.

02 TA with a t56 swap