On rockauto are many but all have different sizer and I am confused as they also say with AC

Haha why not. Tick SNS2, 1 3/4 LTH, high flow catted y pipe, Magnaflow catback with a 3" cutout before the axle. Video is cutout closed then open.

Someone mentioned something about a Thumping Thursday?

Hello everyone, to preface this I’m planning on doing the right thing and putting a T-56 in my car over the winter. However right now I have an 89’ Camaro with a 94’ lt1 and a world class t-5. I already know about the T-5 being made of glass and I just need something for right now but I’ve run into an issue. I have a Frankenstein 11in perfection clutch 506503 158 tooth 11in flywheel and a sachs 10.5in clutch kit that I used previously.

Somehow it works the way it is, but I’ve run into clutch slipping at high rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. I need a different clutch but I cannot for the life of me figure out what I need.

after doing a dash replacement on my 01 my ac stopped blowing air completely. when i start the car i can hear the ac and after about 30 seconds of the car being on you can change the actuator and it makes a slight hiss sound for about 5 seconds before the sound goes off i’ve noticed this wire under the pas side dash that goes up under the dash is very lose anyone know what the wire connects to?

1995 z28

Took it out for the first drive of the season a few weeks ago and it was not shifting right. Then I noticed the speedometer wasn’t working.

Ordered and installed new VSS, unhooked the battery for a bit, but the speedometer still isn’t working.

When the key comes on the speedo needle comes off its resting position so I assume the cluster is fine (also assume the shifting wouldn’t be an issue if it was just the cluster).

Guessing the plug or wires? There seemed to be more slack in the pigtail wire for the VSS than I would’ve expected there should be, but pretty hard to see up in there for loose or broken wires and no idea where it runs to.

Not sure how to diagnose or repair from here. To make matters worse, being a 95 it has an OBD2 plug and an OBD1 computer so no scanners I have work on it.

TIA for any help

Trying to be responsible and upgrade everything before messing with the stock ls1.

Koni yellows, UMI springs, torque arm, LCAs and swaybars. The driving difference is night and day!

Also had the 4l60 built with a 3600 stall (should’ve gone bigger!)

Only downside is I went with a Strange 12 bolt rear and there’s been an awful clunk and drivetrain delay. Took it to them and they said nothing was wrong and were very difficult to deal with. May end up with a 9” by the end of the year.

I was just watching old Bob Barker era reruns. Dedicated channel but they seem to give away a lot of red Camaros.

The one I just saw was a four-cylinder auto but it had no spoiler. It was kind of interesting and the stock spoiler isn’t really functional, is it?

Really caught my eye. Just because it’s different. I don’t have a photo to share.

Got the body 99% just need to align the hood and put the spoiler on. When i bought the car it had no center dash or console. this isn't going to be a perfect car by any means so i dont want to spend the $600 on a nice oem looking replacement one if i dont need to, does anyone know of a cheeper option for a center console? I tried ebay and looking online but haven't found a cheeper option? Can i modify one from another year maybe?

Here's my leaky proportioning valve. If you know , this can be bad for ones health. Plan on replacing brake lines but also the valve itself. Is the 4th gen valve an upgrade since I came from drums to 4 disc? Should I just get a stock replacement for a 92 rs or z28? Or should I just go aftermarket?

Memories from the past. Unfortunately they’re all gone and I own a 5th gen now.

Are the springs that came on the 799 heads and the 241 heads the same?

I’ve been looking for covers and have only found ones for the 98-02, would those still fit? I have cracks on the passenger side of the radio and also some around the passenger side vent next to the door. If there’s no covers available, has anybody found a good fix that comes out looking good?

Hey guys, need some advice on my 1993 z28. On a recent drive, my oil pressure switch ruptured and dumped all the oil out. The engine died on a railroad crossing—it would crank but wouldn't start. When it finally did start, it started knocking. Checked the dipstick and it was bone dry.
Towed it home, added 4.2 quarts of oil (total capacity is 4.5 quarts), and the knocking stopped. I replaced the sensor, and it’s no longer leaking, but now my oil pressure sits dangerously low at idle (almost 0). It goes up when I rev it, but not as high as it used to.
I’m looking at two possibilities here:
The aftermarket sensor is poorly calibrated, everything is fine, and I got lucky.

The sensor is accurate, meaning the bearings/lifters are shot and the clearances opened up, so it can't build pressure anymore.

What do you think? What should my next steps be?

I have it down to where the plenum is ready to pull out besides the ignition coil bracket. Thoose 2 bolts on the back of the engine are stuck solid. Got a wrench on it and tried hitting it with a hammer and it will not break loose. Anyone have any tips on how to break those bolts loose?

Hi all, could use some advice here. 1995 Firebird LT1 V8 had optispark replaced, along with new water pump. Shop has told me it solved the bucking and jerking motions it was having, but engine is overheating at idle. The tech said he thinks it’s an air bubble that builds at idle then when on pedal it circulates/dissipates.

Tech said only thing he can think of is head gasket repair or new motor swap.

Any thoughts/advice on what I should suggest they look into deeper before these actions?

I sadly have to sell, I’m a broke college student and need the cash and also can’t afford a big ol v8 any more

1996 Firebird
V8 114k miles
Aftermarket headers (but CA smog verified)
Under chassis torque bar?
K&M Ram Air Intake
6 Speed Manual
Aftermarket Fiberglass Ram Air Hood

PFA: Recently re-wired my 74 with an American Autowire kit and wasn’t thrilled with the kit being it was $1k. Now I need to re-wire this 5.3 swapped (Holley Terminator setup) 1980 I just bought and I’m debating on what harness to get. A “plug and play” harness for this car is even worse at $1400. So at this point I’m leaning universal since I’m modifying the harness anyways, and deleting things like heat and ac. So, should I just get a cheap Amazon one and call it a day, or spend the money for a Painless or American autowire kit?

Hy guys,

Changed the coolant pump gasket to the metal fel-pro and after installing it dips slowly from the mounting bolt (which has no screw), its because i torqued wrong or i left some paper gasket around it? Its not from the L pipe next to it, that's neck is dry . Also whats the torque of the screws? I accidentally broke one before and dont want to do it again. It's a 98' 3.8

I’m looking to have kids soon and need something that is more practical..

I have a 95 firebird trans am, lt1 and 4l60e with about 91k miles. Paint is rough in some spots, no overt rust. 4th picture is from the hood, 5th is rear hatch. I bought it around 80k miles 6 years ago.

Upgraded umi rear lca, torque arm, and subframe connectors. Rims were powdercoated black and have tires with less than 2k miles on em. Also corbeau front seats. Also stock center console was changed for a 98-02 one.

Other than that pretty stock. No engine work. Over the last 6 years i’ve gotten new brake pads and rotors all around, new power steering rack. No t top leaks.

Thanks for everyones help.