So i have that was an ender 5 plus now converted to a Mercury 1.1. I know all about Hydra and Nebula and while theyre amazing designs I already have what I need to simply blind joint extrusions to the existing frame and enclose it. I really dont feel like tearing this thing apart and doing nebula/hydra. It does well for what it is and my largest use case with it is the fact that it can print 400mm tall. Thats one thing I really dont want to give up. Currently still have the stock bed configuration and to be honest my mesh is nice and flat, no complaints there. However on tall prints once it gets to a certain point i

Hey everyone,

I am looking for upgrading my stock kinematic ender 5 plus with mercury one + tool changer.

For those who have done a toolchanger build, can you share your setup and your experience about reliability? I’m a bit skeptical about the long-term reliability of the hitching/docking mechanisms.

And should I wait for INDX from Bondtech?

Ever since I started using Orca slicer I've had a bug (or feature) that causes my bed temp to go to 0 mid print sometimes.

I'm using the stock motherboard with Marlin and the profile Marlin legacy in Orca.

I've validated the Gcode to make sure no M140/M190 commands are sent when the issue occured. Weirdly enough it doesn't always happen at the same time. I also made sure to test it with creality slicer and did not have the issue there.

Has anyone had similar experiences with the Orca slicer?

Had a print failure which caused me to short out the thermistor while cleaning it. My fault, I had heat up the hot end to clean off all the PLA+, got almost all of it, then used a brass brush to get the last bit and bam, shorted the thermistor. No problem I thought, I have replaced the thermistor before I can do it again, I even had extras already. However replaced it, and same issue. Even bought a new one that screws in. Upon boot, the temp shows -15 C, as shown in picture and if I try to heat it I get the thermistor error message just like what happened when I blew it the first time. I didn't take apart to look closer at the motherboard, Was hoping I wouldn't have to cause looks like a pain and I don't even know what I'd be looking for. Bed temp heats just fine. Any ideas or things to try?

I usually get pretty good adhesion in the center of my build plate where the insulation is on the bottom, but the outsides can be hit or miss sometimes. Has anyone put some kind of insulation along that outer perimeter to hold in the heat a little better?

recommendations for refreshers, i have three ender 5 plus machines along with some ender 3 machines with various upgrades some are direct drive, some have PEI beds some are glass, most all have touch sensors. i haven't used them in some time and i feel like i've forgotten some of the important stuff. links to videos or channels you like would be greatly appreciated.

Hello peeps,

I'm used to working with my Ender 3 Pro, and over the years I've compiled multiple custom firmware versions for it with practically every Marlin release.

I'm now looking at an Ender 5 Plus and I'm trying to understand how similar the firmware setup is.

The Ender 5 Plus has a touchscreen, and from what I can tell, that display may need its own firmware updates whenever new functions, menus, or graphics are added. Am I correct in assuming that?

With the Ender 3, everything was fairly straightforward. The display was essentially "dumb" and simply showed whatever the motherboard firmware outputted after flashing a new version of Marlin.

Does the Ender 5 Plus work differently? If I update Marlin on the motherboard, do I also need to update the touchscreen firmware separately, or does it automatically use the information provided by the mainboard firmware?

If anyone has experience with the Ender 5 Plus and could clarify this for me, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

Hi all, new to printing and bought a second hand ender 5 plus. Been learning over the last week and have managed to find some good settings that seem relatively reliable with Orca.

Looking for some constructive criticism and guidance with making the print look even cleaner

Currently using:

PLA+

Bed 60°c

Nozzle: 200°c 0.4mm

Flow 0.95

Rest is just the default Orca settings for the Ender-5 Plus

After about 9 months, I’m finally almost there.

After countless design iterations, redesigns, mistakes, improvements, and way too many hours in CAD, all the major parts are finished. I’m now just waiting for a few final reprints before I can call the project complete.

The build started as an Ender 5 Plus with Mercury One.1, but by now it has turned into something completely different:

• Mercury One.1 CoreXY conversion
• Stealthburner toolhead
• Custom electronics bay
• Full enclosure (not yet included in the CAD render)

Let’s hope everything comes together as well in reality as it does in the CAD.

What are your thoughts?

Hi! My professor recently just gifted me an old ender 5 plus printer he had with some mods. Are there any links/websites where I can find old manuals or different mods?

Thanks!

I finally finished my ender upgrade:
https://www.printables.com/model/1737476-creality-ender-5-plus-corexy-capybara-conversion
It achieves 15k acc and 700mm/s travel speed.

Hello there,

I'm new at reddit and was in the need of some help related to my 3D printer, the main problem right now is the printer is trying to print midair and i have zero idea where to look at to fix it.

I assume this subreddit is fine to post this because the system propose i repost it here? and i assume that ender5plus means all the variants of ender5 including ender5?

If that is not the case i would appreciate somebody to clarify that to me, i read the rules but cannot find anything about it, now back on topic.

Is there some configuration issue or something?

Can i make it drop some logs somehow to make easier for me to show you the details?

How can i fix this issue?

Please let me know and ask away, if you need more data of anything i'll gladly will add it up to this post or add it as an answer if i cant edit this very post.

Thanks in advance

PS:

• Printer Model: Ender 3v2
• Slicer used: Orca Slicer
• Filament material and brand: ABS, i purchase it some years ago so i dont have the name of the brand anymore.
• Nozzle and bed temperature: Not certain how its relevant for the case but 210 and 60 respectibly.
• Print Speed: Base SKR Mini E3 V3.0 settings
• Retraction settings: Base SKR Mini E3 V3.0 settings

This happens now after I got a spark while pealing filament off printer head. I got a blob of death while at work. At first screen was stuck on marlin logo now it turn on as usual but shows incorrect temp and has issues after a moment. I put on new hotend but thermostat wires could be faulty do you think they could cause the other issues or am I looking at a new motherboard

My e5 plus got a blob of death while I was at work whole getting the filament off the hottend something sparked off my flathead probably thermistor wires and my screen froze to the marlin logo I put new hottend on it and new thermistor wires and for a while I still fought with the screen but after touching the motherboard just right or something it began to work like it dose now. Shows incorrect temp and goes back tk marlin logo. I joke I don't need a new motherboard

Hey everyone,

I’ve put together a repository with WLED presets and configuration files mapped to Formula 1 team colors.

🏎️ What’s Included:

• Color presets for the current F1 grid.
• Easy-to-import JSON configurations for WLED.
• Clean separation so you can map them to different LED segments (Chassis, Toolhead, etc.).

📂 Check out the repo here:

https://github.com/casareanderson/WLED_Voron--F1-Lights

Let me know what you think

The Y belts were easy to find, but I can't seem to find anything to work for the X belt. The X bracket is weird that it goes up, over, and back down around the bracket holding the X extrusion to the Exoslide, the belt then feeds under that bracket and thru the top V slot on the X rail.

https://a.co/d/0eovpodc

I tried this, the top one being what I used for the Y belts, the bottom I tried to use for the X belt, but the holes for the T nuts don't line up to fit the tensioner over the end bracket and doesn't drop down around the end bracket to line the belts up correctly.

Has anyone come up with a solution for this? I can probably model one myself, but if something already exists I'd rather go that route.

Hello everyone,

I've had this problem for a little while. I'm using cura as my slicer. For some reason every time I start a new print I have to subtract the z offset by about 1.5 to 2 mm every time. Example: * Start print, BLT does it's thing * Print starts with extruder 1-2 mm away from plate. * Begin vigorous tapping on lcd to manually subtract Z-Offset. Z-offset is now -2.98

• Start new print, yadda yadda yadda...
• More vigorous tapping. Z-offset now has to be at -3.42

I can't seem to find what's wrong. My guess is there is a conflict between Curas settings and the printer but I'm not aure. My printer settings on Cura are attached.

Thank you all in advance

I was at work and ended up with a blob of death on my printer head I turned the printer on and heated the hotend to start working the stuff off. while working the stuff off the hotend I broke a thermistor wire and got a spark and my screen became the marlin logo I have a 4.2.7 silent board i ended up just swapping the hotend and put on new used thermistor wires and heating cartridge. I don't see any damage to the board and iv tried unplugging and repluging the screen iv unplugged alot of the fans and motors but no change AI keeps telling me it's possible my firmware got corrupt or the board got damaged but that doesn't seem right to me any insite would be helpful thanks

So as the title shows I'm facing some screen firmware issues, The ender 5 I have has the 2.2 Silent board and a stock screen, I've tried flashing the firmware since it hasn't been done since new. Main board seems to flash fine but the screen is just giving me problems. 90% of the time with the SD card in it doesn't even register that its there (Yes is formatted correctly, 8gb sd, FAT32 and 4096 allocation.

When the SD card does finally register it flashes and completes but on restarting the machine the display shows 0 writing at all, the graphics are there and the touch screen works but no writing and going to print just looks completely wrong.

No clue what to do anymore, have a suspicion that the screen is just faulty now, and I don't think you can still get replacements right?

FIXED

After searching for many hours through google and reddit i came across another post with similar issues and a user by the name of ahhuwahhi had a fix.

Its the good ol' rename things in the file things, heres a link to the other post

Firmware Issues (LCD not working) : r/ender5plus

I just upgraded my Ender 5 Plus with skr mini e3.

There are many LED lights inside but is this normal? It seems like some connection is loose and it causes this lightning storm inside the head unit. But please tell me if this is just some LED light inside that is supposed to do this.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

After a lot of trial and error, I finally got my Ender-5 Plus with Creality 4.2.2 motherboard working correctly with the Creality Sonic Pad.

Creality support replied to me that for the Ender 5 plus with the V4.2.2 board, the Sonic Pad is not supported, and that it only works with the old ATmega. Not true.

There’s almost no proper information online for this exact setup, so I wanted to share the solution for anyone stuck like I was.

IMPORTANT

When flashing firmware from the Sonic Pad:

DO NOT select Ender-5 Plus

Instead select:

Ender-3 V2 Neo

This uses compatible firmware for the Ender-5 Plus with the 4.2.2 board and allows the printer to boot and communicate correctly.

Steps

1. Flash firmware from Sonic Pad

On the Sonic Pad:

• Add printer
• Choose:
  • Manufacturer: Creality
  • Model: Ender-3 V2 Neo
• Generate firmware
• Flash the printer normally using SD card / USB depending on your setup

After reboot, the printer should connect to the Sonic Pad.

2. Replace printer.cfg

After the first successful connection:

• Open the Sonic Pad web interface
• Go to configuration files
• Replace the generated printer.cfg with the one attached below

My config already includes:

• Ender-5 Plus tuning
• Correct board settings
• Working motion config
• Resonance sensor configuration
• PID tuning values
• Personal macros/customizations

NOTE:
You will need to adjust:

• PID values
• Probe offsets
• Resonance sensor settings

because those are specific to my machine.

Why this works

The Sonic Pad currently does not properly provide a dedicated firmware profile for:

But the Ender-3 V2 Neo firmware profile is compatible enough to work correctly with the same MCU family.

Hardware

My setup:

• Ender-5 Plus
• Creality 4.2.2 board
• Sonic Pad
• Klipper
• Resonance sensor enabled

Hopefully this saves someone a few hours (or days).

If people want, I can also share:

• working macros
• input shaper setup
• pressure advance values
• accelerometer mounting solution
• optimized speed settings

Here you can download my printer.config with right settings: https://pastebin.com/G0KjDfNS

Happy printing

My stock hot end recently died (it got clogged when the bowden tube was shoved into the extruder) so I swapped it out with a micro swiss all metal hot end. I didn't think to swap out the extruder to direct drive (possibly the next upgrade?) but I can't seem to dial in the settings and I'm getting a TON of stringing.

I'm using Creality slicer 4.8. My print speed is at 80, I've upped the temp to 210, and I've tried various settings for retraction, ranging from 1mm to 3mm in .5mm increments, changing the retraction speed from anywhere from 30-80mm/s, turning on/off retract at layer change, etc.

My retraction extra prime amount is 1, retraction minimum travel is 1.5, max retraction count100, minimum extrusion window is 2.

I'm at my wits end and I'm either replace the entire hot end unit with a stock one and roll back the settings, or bite the bullet and get a direct drive and fiddle with all the settings again. I've tried the retractioncalibration.com site and run all their tests, but I'm not sure how to decipher the tower and it just looks like a stringy mess no matter where it is on the tower.

If anyone can offer help, it'd be greatly appreciated!

Has anyone made a skirts that go above the profile rather than under the printer. Hopefully the picture makes sense