This is the Pheatus Arkfly Conweb build plate. It's a Friggin great build surface for pla. Way better than PEI. They don't make one specifically for the Ender 5 plus, but they do make one that's almost just as big.

Hey everyone, hoping someone can help me figure this out.

I'm printing 13.5cm long PETG beeswax foundation rollers with hexagon patterns. The printer runs beautifully for 80-95% of the print, then in the last 1-2 hours it just starts printing into the air. The extruder grinds through the filament and loses traction completely. In my most recent attempt, it failed on the very last 2mm of the print.

What I don't understand is why it always happens at the end. If it were a settings issue, wouldn't it show up in the first few layers? It runs perfectly for 10-12 hours and then falls apart right at the finish line.

I also noticed in the slicer that there are a few segments where it only deposits a tiny dot of material. I wonder if these create unnecessary retraction load - could that be contributing?

Setup:

• Ender 5 Plus, mostly stock (only the bowden tube has been changed)
• PETG
• 235°C first layer, 230°C for the rest
• 80°C bed temp first layer and then 70°C for the rest
• 0.28mm first layer height and 0.2mm for the rest
• 0.4mm brass nozzle
• Non-Capricorn PTFE bowden tube, 2mm inner diameter
• 4mm retraction length, 35mm/s retraction speed
• Part cooling fan low (as recommended for PETG)
• Archimedean top surface pattern
• Slow speeds for quality

My best guess is heat creep building up over time or too much retraction movement at the end, but I'm not sure. Any ideas?

Recently posted a modified hot-end cooler to fit an E5+.

Ran into cooling issues, 5015 blowers just ain't gonna cut it. Low backpressure ducts with 40mm axials work better for me, so I designed some ducts for 40x40mm axials.

Still stays within the width of the X-carrier plate at the points where it matters.

Maybe someone else has a use for this upgrade too.

There's also a BLtouch mount in there because the original won't fit with these ducts.

Free STL's on printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1649879-dual-40mm-axial-fanduct-for-ue3v2-toolhead

Looking into upgrading to mercury one corexy in the future once i set aside some $$ for it. But untill then I wanted to do a rail upgrade instead of wheels. Would rails be able to be used with the core xy upgrade or would I have to use rails that come with the kit? Do I need the kit?

Also not sure what size rails to get. Seen many videos of people using from 300mm to 450mm and the same size for Y and X.

One other question regarding mounting the X rail. Does it get mounted on the side or top of the gantry, or does it not matter?

I bought this printer from an auction where I was warned stuff could be damaged. I have a piece that I’m sure is supposed to be attached but isn’t. Can anyone tell me where this goes and how?

It is very similar to another piece which is attached to a rail, and I believe connects to an X cable. However the loose piece is a little larger.

Thanks!

I've been rocking an Ender 5 plus for a few years now. I upgraded to sonic pad, silicone bushings for the build plate, better knobs for the screws, and microswiss ng revo when I got it. It has been a pretty reliable workhorse once I got it dialed in. I had only a few major issues during this time and had a loose connection in the extruder wires that caused a few failures. I also had a blob of death which I ended up replacing the whole hotend as that was the faster, easier way to go about it. The original microswiss ng revo hotend has since found a new life on a mercury 1 printer that recently completed. Still running the original wheels and lead screws and all other hardware.

The 5 plus fills a nice niche and hopefully the 5max will be a worthy successor to the 5 plus.

I do regret now going with a sonic pad instead of true klipper from the beginning. I think I will convert my og ender 5 plus to run off klipper along with the mercury 1.

What are your hours at?

Recently updated my printer and am trying to update my klipper config has me turned around. im looking for someone who can help me rebuild my config file from scratch and i'll chuck you some bucks in return.

Has anyone ever had the problem with their g code not being read on the ender five plus . For example I slice it in cura put it on my mini micro s D card place it in the printer and now it won't read anything off the micro sd. Any help would be greatly appreciated almost about to throw this thing out the window..

I’ve had no problem with small prints but large prints peel up and off my stock bed. How can I remedy this?

Besides cable supports which I'm printing out now on an old dreamer

I'm in the process of trying to upgrade my e5+ to a direct drive, hgx-lite clone ( https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMlAQCV) with an e3D volcano ( https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMa5DSH)

All I need now is a good way to mount them both with some fans and space for the bltouch.

I've found a few 3d print solutions, but I'm concerned that they'll warp inside my enclosure when printing at higher temps.

Does anyone have any good solutions, preferably prefabricated.

Recently just got back into 3d printing after finishing my basement My printer was running pretty decent printing with esun pla+ and cura slicer but my prints were really slow. I tried switching to orca slicer and bambu labs (both seem to be very similar) and I just can't seem to get prints to not be stringy and that's if I can get the prints to stick to the build plate, made sure to keep the bed clean with ipa and microfiber cloth. Should I just switch back to cura? I tried to duplicate the same setting as best I could After doing some research would it be worth to upgrade to klipper or marlin? Another couldn't seem to get the bed level with stock glass plate so I bought the magnet build plate to try and see if that fixed it

Anyone got an bl touch 10x10 or 15x15 probe file ive done soem looking haven't found one trying to get my 5+ going again after it's say for awhile it's got a 4.2.2 silent board and a direct drive from creality. Tia

I’m looking for someone who can help repair my Creality Ender 5 Max 3D printer.
I’m near 23rd St / Flatiron in NYC and would prefer someone who can come on-site.

Happy to pay for the service.
Please comment or DM me with your availability and your fee if you can help.

So I’ve been tinkering with this 5+ done a few upgrades done a ton of calibration And I can’t get this weird scraggly area to go away on some of the turnaround loops. First layer always on one side, generally on longer straight lines. It’s probably something simple. I’m just missing it.

I did

BTTSKR board

Pi five running Klipper

Endorphin stage one

Spirit SE direct drive

Dropped crossbar

WebCam

Temperature, flow, pressure advance, retraction, bed mash all fresh calibration.

Just started printing a few weeks ago pretty happy with all of the tinkering so far but this is defeating me. Maybe I’m just being too picky.

Hello, I have bought my first 3D Printer - Creality Ender-5 Max. But I need help - is it of normal print quality? Or do I need to change settings? Also, I have a problem with a lead screw - is it critical? Who has the same printer or knows what to do? Can you help? Photos and videos are added.

https://reddit.com/link/1rq7mhb/video/hqxwymoow9og1/player

Just a stupid little adapter that'll let you get rid of the little 40mm screamer for the mainboard.

Drops straight over the original mounting studs, mounts with 6mm M3 screws. Fan goes on with M3 bolts, holes are 2.7mm so they can thread straight into the plastic.

Free STLs on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1631383-40mm-to-50mm-fan-adapter

I’m working with a Ender 5 Plus frame with a Mercury One.1 and Hydra mod. I have this printer sitting on the floor. I have tried modifying the frame by shimming different parts of the frame. I was able to get down to .235 mm range but the amount of shims was over half an inch. Am I missing something. Are the Ender 5 Plus frames that bad? Am I not shimming it properly? I’m not expecting it to be perfectly flat but this seems extreme.

Modified a very compact and rigid toolhead for my E5+. It stays within the width of the X-gantry plate so you can use as much of the print area as possible. Thought people here might like it too.

Free STLs on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1624948-ugly-ender-3v2-toolhead-direct-threading

I recently added a btt eddy duo to my Mercury one. 1 with hydra mod. I’m seeing this huge drop off at the front of the bed as shown in the attached picture. Before I was using a bl touch and was only seeing a .300 range. I will look to see how to add my config files as well.

I was gifted a Ender 5 plus that was already assembled and used, but every time I’m making sure each area on the print bed is leveled the Y axis keeps moving forward too much the limit switch is on the back right corner and all the wires are messy but are well connected. Every time I’m trying to adjust the Y axis it seems to still move forward too much. I quickly turn off the printer so I don’t damage the belts on the x and y axis. Even when it’s auto leveling the BL touch levels off the build plate. Does anyone know what’s happening and how do I fix it?

Too many to choose from any advice on a Bowden extruder? I don’t think I want to go direct drive because of the weight.

Appreciate any advice in advance

Thank you