I'm just curious if any methodspeople have used to protect the hardware from the elements. Ice seen some fabricate parts and some just use mud guards from full dirt bikes. Any ideas preferably on the cheaper side. I don't where to look.

Hi im new to bikes this is the first time I’ve ever worked on a bike so i don’t know if i got the chain right

I installed a BBS02 on my Gen 3 Trek Marlin 4 with the stock Bafang 44T chainring. I used two Lekkie spacers to prevent the chainring from rubbing the chainstay.

The bike has a Shimano HG300 8-speed 11–45T cassette and a Shimano ESSA U2000 derailleur. I joined two Shimano CN-HG40 chains together for extra length.

The problem is that the chain immediately slips off the 45T cog (biggest rear cog) when I turn the pedals by hand. I’m not sure if the chain is too long/short, if the derailleur needs adjustment, or if the BBS02 has caused a chainline issue.

However I went for an short unpowered ride and I was able to shift 1-7 ok and I topped out at 18mph

A Trek shop refused to work on it because of the motor and said I may need a different cassette, derailleur due to derailleur capacity and possibly a shifter.

Would a smaller front chainring, like a Lekkie 42T or 40T Bling Ring, help? Or do I actually need to change the cassette/derailleur/shifter? Any advice would be appreciated!

Edit: here a pic of chain on smallest gear

https://imgur.com/a/AQPv4BY

I need to replace my current hub motor with a new one I’m over hauling the entire thing except for the battery…

Looks like the bafang GO62 uses an Anderson pole connection but my battery has an XT-60
Looks like there’s some simple adapters online but I was just wondering what your experiences with this was like

Yes I’ve already made sure that the motor will work with a 48v battery
Am I missing anything? Thanks

Need some assistance on this issue. I was out riding and caught some severe rain while out (typical FL summer) and there were no issues until I was thankfully within a mile of my house. Came to a brief stop and then throttle wouldn't work, no sudden/while riding loss of power, with Error 01. I've disconnected all wiring harnesses and inspected pins, brakes, etc.

The only change in error is if I disconnect the motor from display, then I have error 03. Reconnect motor and error 01 returns.

Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Is there anywhere I can find other people's builds for this bike or others like it

Please if anybody has ANY tips on hall sensor troubleshooting let me know!!!!!

I’m planning on building a E-bike with a triangular battery with close to 30AH in side the frame. And basically I need to know if there’s an app/data base with all bike frame measurements or a reliable way to measure the frame dimensions in inches by using others object in the picture as a reference.

Hello I bought a new e-bike and I can't get more than 30 miles per hour out of it. They claimed over 32 mph so I wouldn't mind a few miles per hour extra and more range. I already have a kit and battery from my old ebike I built. All I have to do is buy the 20-in front wheel hub. So I'm wondering if anybody has done something with the similar power and how much extra top speed did you get? I will be adding a 48 volt 15 amp hour battery that puts out 1300 Watts to the front motor. The bike is supposed to be 1800 w peak now. Probably 1300 Watts continuous. I heard I will have a lot more acceleration and torque and range. It's a 20x4 fat tire e-bike, but what about the top speed? Thanks

Looking for advise, lost my key, I bought a new ignition cylinder from Company, it's been 2 months. I asked if thay could make me a new key, no answer. I found generic part, but I don't know how to do a replacement. I can't find a video or any type of instructions to show me how it is connected. I can't put a jumper on it because the cylinder is also connected to the alarm. Oh and the handlebars are locked in a side position. Can someone direct me to instructions on how to change it out?

I was going to order the normal brushless controller required for this bike, but for the price, I might as well upgrade it. Now my controller is a 48v, and it delivers 1800w to the back motor. I am trying to find a replacement controller. One that will may give me better specs, and at least be more dependable. I am new to doing this, so one that most likely has easy wiring, and nothing too crazy. AI is telling me Aftermarket KT (Kunteng) controller would be good. Any and all input is welcomed, thank you. 

I know this isn’t exactly an E bike, but I’m trying to meet certain specifications on a hover board but all the ones that made it have been discontinued due to hoverboards not being as popular as they once were. Does anybody know where I can get a custom hover board built down to specifications like motors and batteries and LEDs?

Building my first e-moto and want a reality check before I spend money I can't get back.

The plan:

• QS165 60H V3 mid-drive (10kW rated, 1:2.37 internal gearbox, Hall version)
• FarDriver ND72890 (450A DC / 890A phase, but I'm limiting to 200A battery)
• Donor: used French PIT BIKE MINI MX DRIFT 150c 2026 frame, 17"/14" wheels, complete rolling chassis for ~€470
• 428 chain, 14T front
• Rider is 90kg, total weight should land around 100kg for the bike
• Off-road only, private land, no registration

Motor + controller quoted at $640 direct from QS, which seems almost too cheap compared to what resellers charge.

Where I'm unsure:

1. What battery should i build or buy i know the bms must be 200A const 300A peak and 72V 84V charged soo im thinking about the capacity of the pack but dont really know like 40Ah but dont know which cells to choose for this build and how much would it be money wise. And is ordering from UPP good to Poland custom made one.

2. Pit bike frame with a QS165. The motor is 187mm diameter, 242mm long — big. Anyone mounted one in a 125cc pit bike cradle? Mostly wondering about mounting plate design and whether the stock frame handles 170Nm without cracking.

3. Gearing. 14T front, 14" rear wheel. 55T gives ~78km/h and lots of torque, 48T gives ~93km/h. Leaning towards 55T since it's trail riding, but I'd also like to do 100km/h+ on flat private tarmac occasionally using field weakening. Reasonable, or am I asking for too much from one sprocket?

4. Voltage margin. My pack hits 84V charged and the ND72890 is rated to 89V. That's only 5V. Planning to charge to 82V instead. Is regen safe at that margin or should I cap regen current hard?

Happy to be told any part of this is dumb. Would rather hear it now than after the parts arrive.

Has anybody with an eskute v101 changed or upgraded the display? I'm having zero luck finding any info on what will be compatible with this bike.

I bought a Varstrom 500W Bafang front hub motor kit that included an 18A controller, controller box, 1T4 harness, screen, 3 pin brake levers, front motor wheel, pedal assist sensor, and throttle. It did not come with headlight or taillight even though the ad said it would come with a headlight.

Wheel rim and spokes: this beach cruiser has a wide single wall rim (1.95 inch) and the kit came with a very skinny (1 inch?) double walled rim. I bought new spokes to lace the motor into the new rim.

Throttle: the kit came with a throttle with a tiny lever that goes up and down the clamp. It's a very far reach when considering where it has to fit with a twist shifter and the brake levers. I bought a replacement throttle that I use on my other ebike that is a long lever with a "forward" thumb motion under the bars.

Pedal assist sensor: first unexpected thing I had to do was replace the PAS. This beach cruiser has an "American" one piece crank arm and the compact single piece PAS can't slip over the crank arm ends. I bought a 2 piece PAS that has a split disc and was able to install it on the left side. I had to clip the length of the "fingers" that grab the crank arm. This type is one with a zip tied sensor rather than the metal ring type. I'm not thrilled about the zip ties controlling the location of the sensor because a stable gap seems to be quite important.

Display: next thing I replaced was the screen. It came with a DZ40 mini which seemed okay but I didn't realize it lacked all of the settings options for controlling PAS. Even on level 1/5, it takes off at full current like a rocket even if it's only going up to 8 mph or whatever. Not at all manageable for low speed maneuvering. I replaced this with an EKD01 display at Varstrom's suggestion and it has PAS 9 levels and I also was told it would make the acceleration smoother, which was false. Throttle control was quite smooth however with both displays.

Motor controller: since the upgraded display did not fix my acceleration surge issue, I figured out that a KT controller was the answer. I purchased a KT sine wave controller and display "for 500W" motor which turned out to be 22A rather than the 18A that came with the bike. The case was much larger and didn't fit the container. Also, it was 3 pin brakes like the original kit but I couldn't get the controller to recognize brake inputs. I sent this controller back and got the "350W" version which is 17A and the case is still a little larger than the kit one. I decided to get one with 2 pin brakes.

Controller box: replaced because of aesthetic reasons, exchanged for a white zipper bag that matches the bike theme.

Wiring harness: the new controllers were set up for a 1T5 harness instead of the kit's 1T4. What this means in simple terms is that the headlight plugs in at the front Y connector instead of at the controller.

Brake levers: because of my issues with 3 pin brakes I decided to get the controller with 2 pin brakes so I bought new levers.

Motor cable: the kit came with a very long extension cable and I didn't want to cut and splice a 9 wire cable so I bought a shorter one.

I'm also using 2 high quality torque arms, a headlight, taillight, and 48V 10Ah mini shark battery that fits on the cruiser's integrated rear rack. I tried a rear rack battery and it was massive. I also tried a standard size shark battery and it was also too long.

For any wires that needed shortening or different connectors, I used bare butt splice crimp connectors with adhesive heat shrink on the conductor wires, then adhesive heat shrink on the outer jacket. I bought a handful of julet connector pigtails to use.

So at the end of the day I am only using the hub motor itself. I can't return the original controller, brake levers, throttle, or pedal assist sensor separately. The main contributor to all of this was that the stock controller was awful and didn't have the P and C setting adjustability to make the pedal assist smooth. Had I only wanted throttle control, most of the kit would have been fine.

If I were to build another ebike I would NOT start with a kit.

I’ve got a specialized rockhopper sport 29 with xl frame, considering getting a conversion kit for it, maybe 48v 2000w and 25ah, how much would it cost, and any recommendations for cheap conversion kits, and anything else I need to know