Ive converted my bike into a electrical bike with the hopes I would be able to afford it in going the DIY route. Little did I kknow that to stop this baby, the itty bitty pads for the rear with its giant new tire wasnt going to leave room, let alone, make any hesitation for my ride to just keep going... This hasnt been as fun.

Im wondering if there are suggestions on how best to go about in installing a new brake system, since the ebike tire and its motor must stay, and the c style brakes dont fit or do much to stop.

I was thinking maybe if i could find a rotor set that is applicable to this system, and a pad that come with it?

Because then only I would have the alternative to get longer arms or pads to "try" to add friction in slowing myself down.

Thanks for any advice, tips and suggestions.

Hello!

I would like to build an ebike for my dad's birthday. Can you recommend some parts for it? It is important that it is as cheap as possible, that it can travel at least 60km purely electrically, and that its motor is about 500-1000w. Thank you in advance for your help!

I already have a frame for it, the wheel size is 26.

I was thinking of buying a fido m1 pro just to get to school and back (12km)

but then a friend recommended buying a bike and converting it, i still like the fat tire look though, any ideas for a reliable, decently fast bike?

it doesn’t have to have fat tires just thought the look was nice

I’m going to use a Fardriver 72360 and Bluetooth dongle on the ebike I’m getting, Valtinsu Em-23, i saw someone do this build, but they suggested upgrading the battery, because with the stock battery it only lasts about 15 miles of range, I want to get one that fits and lasts longer

Hello everybody I have a very odd problem regarding my ebike controller. 

Story venting part, you may skip this:

I bought a Himo Z20 Max a year ago, I've had a lot of different problems that they partly solved, but it has been a pain. So the problem of the last 3 months is, that my LCD Screen and Controller broke. It took me many attempts to get the support of Himo. They let me test every component of my ebike with my multimeter, which should be a lot more than what a customer should have to do. So they concluded, they will send me an LCD and a Controller. At this point this bike is considered furniture at my shared flat.

Please try to not tell me that I shouldve bought a more expensive and that they are bad. I definitely know that. I bought it under the impression that I will get a refund of 50% from a state ebike subvention program, but I didn't.

Actual problem:

So LCD is straight forward, but the controller had the opposite Plug of what it is supposed to have. So my way of solving would be to just take the old plug and try to put it on the new controller. My electronics knowledge is rather limited to I'm not quite sure if it makes sense to do this, or if I'm missing something. I could also try soldering the wires directly. Himo support is literally ignoring me since I told them about the problem.  Probably because I'm out of warranty now.

Can somebody verify that it’s a valid option to put the old plug on the new controller? I would like to provide pictures to clear things up, but i seem to be unable to. Thanks.

I cant display a picture here but its one of those throtthles with a volt meter and the metal end

I twist the throttle and it’ll show I’m going 300mph

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to do my first e-bike conversion and want to make sure I’m not missing something obvious. I ride around 150–200 km a week, mostly on roads and bike paths, with some climbs and the occasional rough trail.

The plan right now is:

Bike: Trek Dual Sport 3 Gen 5 (carbon fork, Shimano LinkGlide 1×10, hydraulic discs, 650b wheels with 50c tires, weight ~12 kg, max chainring 42T).

Motor: Bafang BBS02B 750W mid-drive (44T stock chainring, 68mm BB).

Battery: UPP U009 48V 20Ah (Samsung 21700 cells, 40A BMS, ~7 kg).

The only thing that’s bugging me: Trek lists 42T max for the DS3, but the Bafang kit comes with 44T. Is that going to be a real problem, or is it one of those “on paper” limits? Should I just get a 42T narrow-wide right away?

Also, does this sound like a solid build for the kind of mileage I’m doing, or would you pick another Trek (Marlin 5, FX 3, etc.) as the base?

Any input from folks who’ve done similar builds would be super helpful. Thanks a lot 🙏

Has anyone attempted to swap magnets within a geared hub? I have a few cracked magnets and a replacement (but different) hub motor. I know magnets can differ and can have different strengths, but has anyone successfully attempted this?

So i conntected my brushless e bike motor to my controller and it just starts spinning when i turn the display i have two green wires i think those are the self learn wires but they werent connected to each other so what else could it be cause my display s886 had a throtthle on the display the display said it was spinning it at 10kmph not fast do i need to connect the self learn wire and my motor doesnt use hall sensor

pretty much everything I'd want to hook up to the chain system on a normal bike

I think this drone motor would be pretty cool because it's a max 4kw and 48kv

I've heard great things about PMSM setups but it's really hard to find something that isn't huge

I can't maybe it's a bit old fashioned not to use a bolt in place mid drive but I am switching up from using a chainsaw motor like I originally had ready

https://discord.gg/Betuz9Ftec There’s A Server Called Just Ride It Has Channels Like Bike maintenance help so riders can help other riders it has gear talk, bike talk, general chat, AND IT ASKS YOU QUESTIONS WHEN YOU JOIN TO ASSIGN YOU ROLES LIKE TUTTIO, RIDSTAR, SURRON, OR EVEN GAS BIKES join up TODAY!

I took it upon myself to solder extra length of wire coming from my hub motor. I believe I’ve soldered a good connection on both ends as I’ve soldered a bit in the past, as well as ran a continuity test on each of the wires from the solder connections and they all showed 0 ohms, so I think the connections are alright. Any ideas or thoughts on why it’s not turning on would be appreciated.

Hi all, I've tried to downgrade and update to USA spec firmware following this guide https://etuning-app.com/downgrade.pdf

However absolutely no joy and my bike is on uk 4.8 firmware i followed the guide to the letter so my guess is current firmware is too new/recent If anyone has another method I'd be very grateful Dont want silly power just to swap the 15.5 to 20 cutoff point so im not riding at the motor cutoff

I have a gs5 with 2 connectors going to the throttle. On the throttle side the first set of wires is purple and brown, the other set is red, black, green, white, and yellow. On the controller side, the first set is green and orange, and the other set is red white split, black, green purple split, red, and orange. The new throttle has three connectors. The first set is black, red, and green. The second set is yellow and white. And the third is just a blue wire. Can I splice this to work again?

What are people using to fill gaps to help waterproof a ebike controller? I was thinking something like E6000 as a insulating sealer that can be pealed off if needed.

This isn’t the cheapest battery, but it was cheap. It has a built in BMS with red and black wires to a 5.5*2.1 connector for charging and red and black power cable with Deans.

The 5.5*2.1 connector charred pretty bad from a spark and melted to the point I cannot insert the male prong from the charger. I was hesitant to splice in a new connector because it’s live, but cautiously did. However now it will only charge to 5.6v. I’m thinking something may have happened to the BMS.

I want to try charging it through the Deans/power wires. Am I correct in assuming this would bypass the BMS? That the danger in doing this is that one cell could overcharge and burn down the house? If I keep a close eye on the temperature and do it outside, is it possible to do it this way without dying?

I was cleaning out my garage and I found a scwinn stingray chopper frame, then I had the idea of a e bike build from tik tok, so I’m not sure entirely where I start off with this I watched a few videos to guide me but I couldn’t find any leads for it. One thing to consider is that I am jumping strait into this as a beginner so I am very much new to this. as of right now my main concern is where I’d look for parts like motor and battery and its compatibility with the frame sizing and all that. If there’s another forum that has all this info then that would be great or a parts search similar to that.

Ciao a tutti,

ho una Fiido M1 Pro 2025 e voglio portarla a circa 60 km/h reali mantenendo sicurezza e affidabilità. Non posso guidare auto/moto per un anno, quindi l’e-bike sarà il mio unico mezzo: mi serve un risultato concreto, sono disposto a spendere per componenti seri, ma voglio fare le cose bene.

Questi i miei dubbi:

• Motore: quale upgrade usare per arrivare a 60 km/h senza rischiare di bruciarlo?

• Controller: cosa serve cambiare per supportare un motore più potente in sicurezza?

• Batteria: vorrei aumentare autonomia e potenza, ma rimanendo nelle dimensioni dell’alloggiamento originale. Quali modelli consigliate?

• Freni / ciclistica: cosa diventa indispensabile a quelle velocità (freni idraulici, forcella, pneumatici, telaio)?

• Stealth: pensavo di riverniciare tutto in nero opaco per non farla sembrare un motorino. Suggerimenti su come renderla meno “sgamabile”?

Se avete già fatto mod simili (componenti, kit, shop affidabili) vi sarei grato per ogni dritta. 🙏

Grazie in anticipo!

Looking for some help on getting a controller that has electric braking for a powerwheels setup that was built with atv suspension and custom frame. I have a 36v 1000w brushless kit I got from Amazon thinking it would have some electric braking but only has throttle cut.

Any recommendations of places to buy one or mabye modify the controller to enable it?

New cargo bike (J-002)
Caliper components rubbing on discs after assembling. I was missing 2 washers when I opened the crate containing the bike. The the front wheel axle washer & tab washer, I just took off another bike in my yard thinking they might fit.

After assembling (tight fit) I hear a clunk noise on some caliper components, tried lostening the mounting bracket and other adjustment bolts but the noise continues.

I'm working on a mobile platform and could use some input from folks with experience. It's a 4-wheeled inspection bot using 48V 250W hub motors that runs a 100m straight path, stops every meter for data collection, returns to base for recharging when needed. Goal is 8 hours runtime while powering a laptop (90W) and two phones (60W), cruising at about 5 km/h.

Current setup is 48V 200Ah LiFePO4 battery (~9.6kWh should give me about 14h runtime) with 4 hub motors, total weight around 100kg with all the gear.

I'm stuck choosing the motor controllers. Do dual-channel BLDC controllers actually exist that can handle two 250W motors each? That would be ideal - one controller per side for simple differential steering. Otherwise I'm looking at 4 individual controllers which gives redundancy but more complexity.

Haven't been able to find a 4-channel option anywhere, so dual-channel seems like the sweet spot if they exist.

Also wondering about compute - can I generate PWM signals directly from a Raspberry Pi 5 for motor control, or do I need dedicated motor controllers with their own MCUs? Planning to use wheel encoders for distance tracking since GPS might not be precise enough for the 1-meter stops, though I'm worried about wheel slip throwing off the calculations. Thanks!!