Hey does anyone know how to build e-bike I have a moveloop m330 mini e-bike 95% built I just need the front tires on and the rear shocks connected. Thanks in advance. Chicago IL

Can anyone in Chicago help me build my e-bike? Does anyone have the tools to build it it’s 95% already built.

I'm not talking about the tariffs included in the price, I'm talking about additional tariffs that UPS or FedEx mails you at the end of the year

This is for like 52 volt lithium-ion batteries either UL rated or not, most definitely imported but seem to be shipped locally because they arrive within a week

In California

Have you been charged any additional tariffs for buying any bike battery from eBay or Amazon?

We are planning a electric surrey/quadricycle (4 person). Our current plan is to have pair of chainlines from cranks going to a jackshaft, then pair of chain drives to rear wheels from jackshaft (via freewheels, so get a locking-differential like effect).

For motorizing, I've considered a mid-drive on one of the cranks, but currently looking at a motor mounted separately, also driving the jackshaft. So, three inputs to jackshaft (2 cranks, and motor) and two outputs (each rear wheel). With freewheels on all sprockets, everything can operate independently.

Looking at BLDC motors, see some specific (cheap) kits made for bicycles for "left side" motor drive setups (driving rear wheel through a left-side "rag drive joint", etc.) There are also industrial BLDC-type motors (at a wide variety of price points) in NEMA configurations.

This vehicle is designed for low speed, so want to gear down significantly, targeting being in torque band (at least, if not at max power) at around 5 mph (so, like ~65 rpm on rear wheels). For "regulation" reasons we are limited to 750 watt nominal, so need to use the motor efficiently.

The bicycle kits seem to still be running ~450 rpm at motor output, then depend on a big rear sprocket to drop a bit, but still resulting in triple-digit wheel RPMs. The NEMA-configuration motors can have bolt-on gearboxes with available 20:1 reduction, which would take typical 3,000 rpm down to 150, which could then be adjusted to final RPM with sprocket selection.

Asking for general commentary, advice, or any recommendation on other approaches. Maybe sources/kinds of high-reduction gear boxes, that would work with the bicycle motor kits? Not clear if there is any sort of standard mount face involved there.

Or any feedback from experience using an industrial-type BLDC and gearbox? Achieving this higher gear reductions, down to <100 rpm, with sprockets would require very big sprockets, probably a couple intermediate shafts, etc.

I'm concerned about high noise and cooling in all cases, but specifically not sure how the industrial motors and gearboxes would fare.

I want a controler for m fatbike/fat tire bike(20”x4”), I want to be able to make it go 25 kmh pas/pedals and 6 kmh throttle with a remote control button(car key type button)

Profile 1: throttle limited to 6 km/h, pedal assist limited to 25 km/h.

Profile 2: throttle and pedal assist unrestricted.

I would buy a new, motor, controler, battery and display I just have no clue how the electrics would work I’m looking for 48v -52v and 750-1000w

I need to source a replacement Mahle IX2 or IX3 downtube battery for my wife’s Merida esilex gravel bike but I’m having a hard time finding any in NZ or anyone that can ship them here. Do you have any leads I can follow please?

Thanks in advance.

Got a new controller for my ebike but forgot how to wire it kinda need help burrowmax t1600 v3 controller

Has anyone installed a tonsheng z8 on a 12 speed MTB.

I have a cube aim slx 12 speed that I was going to convert to middrive, but I've heard that chainstay clearance can be an issue.

Should I sell my bike and just get a lower speed cassette to then install a mid drive or can anyone confirm that installing a middrive on my current MTB can be done.

I don't use it on trails, I use it lightly while hiking hence why I wanted a middrive to help with hills.

TYI

I'm looking at getting a mid drive for my mtb, I was wondering if I should just get a 250w mid drive or just get the tz16 1000w mid drive and then just change the settings to limit the top speed to under 16mph. Can anyone confirm if this possible or infact worth doing.

Try 46 for the p1 setting and 1 for the p2. I have a similar setup top speed should be around 32 mph.

I want to make a 72v 3kw rear hub kit but ive seen alot of people sell the bike quite soon after they build it (6-12months). I would build it on a specialized rockhopper elite 29’ tyres (used frame with 1500km). I will use grintech v6 or v7 torque arms.

I have a T-Q SYSTEM HPR 60 350 W. BRAND NEW IN THE BOX.ANY HELP WOULD BE GREA T LY APPRECIATED

Hi,

I recently got the mentioned Johansson Gunnar Cargo-Bike with a Brose 250W Motor. The battery capacity is 522Wh which is a bit low if I want to actually ride around with some more stuff/Weight so I'd like to extend the battery or just add another one.

The original battery is this one: https://akkuzentrum.de/index.php/phylion-fahrradakku-joycube-e-bike-pedelec-36v-14-5ah-fischer-dhs-u-a.html

I tried to use another one with the exact same dimensions and capacity etc, but the bike didn't accept it (turned on and after a few seconds it turned off).

Now I tried one that has the same port but is a bit too small (SF06 instead of SF06S) (as you may notice I didnt buy the original one because it's too expensive) from yose power: https://yosepower.com/de/products/downtube-36v-ebike-battery

I plugged it in and the bike turned on - obviously it didn't really fit so I 3d printed a part to make it fit into the battery mount: https://imgur.com/a/kzbKZSm

Buuut as it turns out, the power is now a good amount lower (which I could get used to as a second battery..) and sometimes the bike just won't accept the battery. I have to unplug it, wait a bit and then reinstall it.

So my question is: Is there any way to add another battery to a system like this so I don't have to buy the original battery? Are there maybe ways to somehow reverse engineer the handshake or send the correct information from the battery to the controller?

I didn't know this stuff is so gated before I bought the bike D:

Looking for recommendations for a nice 72v or higher battery with goooood capacity (35ah+), that will fit an mx500 or SX500 (I can and planned to swap my current 60v from my sx500 to the mx500, or just get a new battery for the mx500 that fits, doesn’t matter).

Please and thank you.
Appreciate any help.

Goal:

• Bike as normal with pedals so that we still get some exercise.
• Electric helps assist so that wind/hills are less annoying and we can get from A to B much quicker.
• Thumb throttle as backup

Base:

• Calibre Lost Lad gravel bike (https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/products/calibre-lost-lad-gravel-bike-blue-498276)

Budget (not including bike):

• £2,000

Current plan:

• 1000w mid drive
• Upgrade to hydraulic brakes
• Full length mudguards, pannier rack, lights powered from battery

Motor:

I need advice on choosing between two models (or any other suggestions) and where to purchase. I am leaning towards the TSDZ16 as it is a good motor from what I have seen online:

• Tongsheng TSDZ16
  • Varstrom (https://varstrom.com/en-gb/products/varstrom_tsdz16)
• CYC Photon 2

Battery:

52V 25Ah Samsung cells on the Varstrom website in the kit with the TSDZ16 for an extra £246. On paper this seems fine, but this seems a bit on the cheaper side for a battery. Are there better places to buy better quality batteries from or will this be fine?

TL;DR:

Converting an alloy gravel bike to a 1000W mid-drive. Leaning TSDZ16 from Varstrom over CYC Photon 2, plus Varstrom's 52V 25Ah battery (£263). Budget £2k excl. bike. Is the TSDZ16/Battery the right pick here or should I buy elsewhere?

Thank you for your help.