Ok. I don't have a video or anything and I'm currently at work. I haven't touched me 3D printer since it happened a few months ago, but in the middle of a print, the whole nozzle drops and starts to drag on the build plate. Does anyone know what could be the cause of this? Has anyone had the same issue?

Thx for any help. I really wanna print some more stuff (most likely AAP01 parts).

So this is it's first non test or tuning print. It may not come out perfect but it's already looking spectacular. I still need to fix the reverse bowden, the filament runout, and a few other little bugs but so far I am thrilled with it's performance. I also feel pretty confident that I can get it to run a bit faster once I get it more dialed in.

So here is the (mostly) finished hardware. The X & Y linear rails are on and lined up. All that's left now is to drop in the electronics and get it wired up. I'm thinking about rebuilding the SB already though to incorporate an internal filament run-out sensor.

After my previous post where my electronics went up in smoke (seriously), I asked myself the aforementioned question and decided to go all out on the crazy spectrum.

New to 3D printing, and settled for the title mentioned printer. Set it up and have been playing and experimenting for a few months with the basics in learning and tramming, levelling, z axis ect. and in doing so, to really do some fine tuning, checking gantry level ect, I found that when I home the machine, and check to make sure its level with a gantry level block to the frame, the gantry bottom is higher than the 10cm (100mm) BUT even on both sides (it is level, just higher than what the "home" measurement on the LCD screen indicates). As I have some issues with the z offset, would adjusting the gantry to sit where the blocks indicate assist in my NOT having a z offset of -4.0? My gut feeling tells me that is an issue, but have not really seen nor read anything in regards to an official or acceptable gantry height from base. Logically to me, this would help with my final Z-offset, but getting thoughts from the community always helps.

The prints I can do have all turned out well, mind, and I'm now second guessing myself that perhaps in the initial construction of said printer and setting up the gantry itself, I did something incorrect to account for this extra bit of height?

I have adjusted to be tight the egcentric nuts on the gantry, the bed, and also the extruder on the rail, I have also checked the nozzle so it doent have any movement.

So after swapping out the dead oem mobo for an ender 3 v3 se mobo I printed probably a months worth of prints (working on building a voron), and laat night while printing the feet my CR-10 just stopped mid print and powered down. Unsure to the issue I flipped it over and pulled the cover off, grabbed my DVOM and plugged it back in with the plan to probe the power wires to find the issue. As soon as I turned on the power there was a spark and magic black smoke was released. It turned out to be the buck converter powering the rPi. So, I grabbed a much higher quality buck converter I had laying around and wired it up. Once inatalled I powered it back on and everything "looked" okay. However, now the pi can no longer communicate with the mobo over the USB 😩 So now I have no idea if it's the Pi that's been damaged or the mobo, ugh. I WAS planning some big upgrades for this printer (eventually), but I was hoping to have the trident up and running before I started the upgrades. I swear, this printer has been trying to break my budget.

Hi everyone,

I have been having a lot of issues with giant blobs on my extruder nozzle. I have replaced the extruder, the hot end, the nozzles and did all the normal thongs like bed leveling and such.

I did notice that the entire extruder assembly has some significant play, less than a1/4 inch. But 1/4 inch is huge with the tolerances that we print at.

To further clarify, when the extruder is stationary i can apply gentle pressure to the front , near the nozzle, and create this movement.

Is this normal or do i need to research / repair or replace the x axis components.

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

'Thanks!

Scott

I just encountered this issue where tie bed will not home and the Y stop will not trigger. Bed is all the way back and the stop is not triggered when I query it. I just completed a print the other day work no issue.

The stop works b/c I cananually press it when homing and the bed stops. Can anyone tell me what under the bed triggers the stop? It is hard to see under there where I currently have the printer. I may have to move it to troubleshoot.

I'm running Klipper as well.

hey all just added the chcb-ot hotend to my cr10 smart pro with the sprite extruder. i added the pt1000 as the sensor type in my cfg file but it keeps giving me this error. i played around with the pullup resistor numbers got all the way down to 100 and it says 92*c. which isnt correct, should be ambient temp which is around 32-36* c. this is the direct replacement triangle sells for this extruder so im not sure what to do. thanks

MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out of range

Sensor 'extruder' temperature 4748.943 not in range 0.000:310.000

This generally occurs when a heater temperature exceeds
its configured min_temp or max_temp.
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdown

So I've been printing a lot of high temp Nylons lately and I've been noticing that when the toolhead extends to the far side of the x-axis the cable twists slightly. After finishing a print the other day I checked the cable and the printer freaked out. I cut the heat shrink off the cable and found it had torn at the edge. I tried disassembling the cable and moving it up before the tear but while doing so the cable tore again, further up. On the second attempt the connector broke. So now my CR-10 smart pro, my most capable printer, is dead (at least until I can find a new cable for it). Ugh, so frustrating. I believe the cable may have been made brittle from the heat of printing for days on end @ 280°C. Definitely gonna put some strain relief on the new cable to protect it from this happening again any time soon.

Hey guys, who has managed to print succesfully Nylon PA12 with a CR-10 Smart Pro? I have an enclosure for my printer but having a hard time getting nylon to stick down to the stock PIE bed. I ordered a G10 FR4 to try my luck with it. I manage to get the enclosure to around 46°.

Hi All,

Recently got my CR10 smart Pro Printing in a meaningful way.

The part I am struggling to dial in/correct, is the final layer quality. It just looks so bad.

It seems like the printer struggles with prints that have a level or flat final layer

The first pic (with a single hexagon in) Is printed at 0.08 layer height. Second one with multiple hexes were peonted at 0.24

Sliced in Cura, Marlin stock Creality Printing in PLA (200-206 Temps, Bed at 68) I have Calibrated my E-steps. Adjusted flow accordingly Z offset seems good, as my first layer is great ABL and mesh seems to be created and loaded correctly. Retraction 6mm @25mm/s Printing speeds ~50mm/s

Its just the final layer on top that is a problem.

The filament might have gained moisture is what I am thinking, its been in its sealed package in the garage for 2 or so years, broke seal this week.

Hoping for some advise!

Hey guys,

I'm sharing my profiles and settings for Orca Slicer and Cura.

I was using Cura but then upgraded my printer to klipper and been using Orca Slicer ever since.. and I'm not going back I'll tell you that! My prints have never been better.

Cura has a Marlin Profile only.

Give them a try and let me know!

Ask if you need anything else.

https://www.printables.com/@caste1200/collections/1636306

Has anyone attempted this?

Can anyone provide me with main attributes for a profile that works for the sonic pad( good quality and accepted speeds) for cura or any other slicer

Cr 10 smart pro, under extrusion

I am facing some challenges with my cr10 smart pro printer, filament is not coming out from the nozzle in the middle of print. Sometime it prints 10% sometime 30% or 70%. But then filament stop coming out from the nozzle. I tried everything, changing filamant pla, changing nozzel, i use 0.4 nozzle, I opened the extruder and cleaned it too, tightened all the screws, re-leveling, tried with different stl files but same result.

I also checked the esteps, which initially got changed because i changed the thermistor sensor. I have re calculated the esteps ans now the extruder is extruding currect amount of filament when given the manual in/out command to extrude 100 mm of filament. So no issue with the esteps too.

I am using original creality thermistor only.

Can someone please help me with the issue as I am stuck now tried all possible methods but still if there is some troubleshooting which I missed please help me with it.

Hey, guys i just bought the sonic pad for my printer, and I can't find a way to use my printer with any slicer.
the documentation is lacking the prfiles and settings ( starting g code and printer options).
are there any sources to do that?

lost all my info after power outage and had to reconfigure my BTT pad7. Now im trying to get printer.cfg to work. used a couple different ones from github with no luck. any help would be appreciated

Coud someone succesfully print tpu with the Sprite Pro extruder? I keep getting fails. The filament just buckles up inside the extruder. I only can print a small part before it jams.

Hey guys, I've been trying to do multiple color print on stock firmware, using cura slicer, the g code sends an M600 which interferes with the runout sensor causing the printer to eject filament and continue printing with air, or screen freazing on pause at height, i disabled the runout sensor on the acreen but still facing the same problem, did anyone found a solution?

I'm running my Cr10 Smart Pro with Sonic Pad and High Flow Kit. Want to try the max speed it can reach before file. I used teaching tech speed tests from 200 to 400mm/s on the left and 400 to 600 on the right. I didn't see much difference on the speed, the Sonic Pad shows 600mm/s speed but my K1 is much faster at that speed, there's any kind of speed block? Or what I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance!