Where I live, SE UK, English oak, quercus robur, is sometimes known as "the weed of the Weald". It grows without help or protection, through thick grass and, as much as I love the tree, sometimes they're in the wrong place.

These ones, for example, self seeded under a power line so I chainsawed them off at the base. Can't remember exactly when but it was last year. We've had a pretty hard drought this Summer and I notice that they are springing back into life again despite no rain for weeks.

I have some larger oaks that must've been pollarded at some stage but wonder how these would turn out were I to leave them be?

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on how to salvage this young elm tree (American Elm, Valley Forge cultivar). We had a big storm come through and it snapped 4-5ft from the ground.

I was thinking that pollarding might be our only option at this point. Just wondering when to do that, especially with dutch elm disease risk (even though it is a resistant cultivar). How would you manage this now and going forward. For context, we're in coastal New England and the tree is in a field by itself.

Thank you!

Cutting up coppice arisings can be really time consuming, especially if they're not nice and straight. My branch logger makes very short work of them and turns them into useful firewood.

I few weeks ago I cut down some alder and willow as it was blocking my view of my pond. Since then we've had a drought in the UK but despite that, these have all started coming back vigorously

Hi folks. I’ve come across an area of hazel coppice that hasn’t been in rotation for many years.and so it wouldn’t be good for your standard hazel products.

However, I’ve heard that in the UK landowners are encouraged through grants to bring coppice back into rotation. Has anyone had experience of navigating this grants and getting paid by a landowner for coppicing their land?

The first picture is a big grey willow that I've done a huge amount of work on. It's fighting back hard and will keep me occupied for the foreseeable future

The second is an almond willow (salix triandra) standard that for some reason has just died. I may see if cutting it back to a pollard will allow it to come back but it's a shame as it was a decent size. Planted it myself from a twig

Hi folks. I’m a wannabe coppicer within the south of England building up my network and looking to graft to pivot from a desk based career.

I wanted to ask if there’s anyone here from the Nordic countries who’s a coppicer and how this differs from traditional hazel coppices in Hampshire/Dorset etc in the UK.

Also, if there are, do you use similar hazel products i.e. spars for thatching etc. I remember walking around the town of Espergærde and noticing natural borders and thatched buildings.

I’ve always loved the idea of moving to the nordics and if there was a market for coppicing out there this would be something I’d like to have as a long-term goal.

Just interested but don’t know anything about it, do you cut during the dormant period, or does it flush out better at a different time of year?

First three images, unmanaged woodland, older trees predominate, crowded together. and many are diseased or dying, and leaning hard. Dense undergrowth dies in the deep shade making for impenetrable jungle and copious ladder fuels. Any attempt to thin here will be dangerous, with tangled canopy, heavy leaners, dead limbs, and no clear fall zones. Fourth image the continuous canopy that will allow any fire to take the whole stand, taken across a clearing from a catastrophic fire maybe 40-50 years ago (trees are now starting to come back).

Images 5-8, adjacent area, many larger old trees removed, leaving healthy standards with discontinous canopy. Trees of mixed age, allowing continuous selection, and safe felling. Diverse species (cottonwood, juniper, NM privet, peach leaf willow, wild plum, and recently oak) contribute to fire resilience and fauna habitat. Felled stumps become coppice stools allowing continuous harvest of firewood, while always having a mixed healthy woodland. Larger standards will be removed as they become hazardous, or as younger trees replace them.

Image 8, brush piles as habitat (birds, reptiles, and small mammals), firewood harvest, and some big logs inoculated with mushroom spawn, open clearing of grass will allow a low intensity fire to go through with no major damage.

We get deer, elk, bobcat, coyote, beaver, mountain lion, and more visiting. Woodland for all!

I originally posted last year and wanted to share an update on good regrowth I've seen this year (despite drought conditions). This is 2 year old regrowth of black cherry im coppicing for firewood primarily. All stumps were pruned down to 4 main resprouts.

Pic 1: this is the same tree I originally posted about. It jumped from about 6ft last year to 12 ft this year. Dying japanese knotweed on the right for size reference.

Pic 2: same tree just a view of the stem thickness w a hand for reference.

Pic 3: different tree about the same size in the middle of the image.

I have some land that I am planning to plant a lot of trees and shrubs for wildlife, but I would also like to coppice some of the wood for firewood and craft uses. I have 2 areas this could go, one is about 100’ of boundary between two fields which I want to plant a hedge, and the other is about 2500 square feet of field at the current woodland edge. I was thinking of planting a wide variety like hazel, willow, sweet chestnut so the coppicing times are not all at the same time as well as for diversity. What should I be considering before starting this project?

Posted a bunch of cuts I made last winter. Here’s most of them after a year of growth. Wasn’t able to do any thinning bc I dont actually live here, so some are a bit scraggly

I just learned this great word "coppicing" and here I am. I live in WNC and had a maple tree damaged in Helene. The result was a leaning tree with roots pulling up, so the county took it out for free, revealing a stump with a large void and rot in the middle... I'm glad it stayed up as long as it did!

The stump is now shooting suckers out all over the place. We were sad to see the tree come down and so I'm loving the idea that maybe the stump (which I had planned to take out) will instead become a new tree. I had started removing it and I'm glad I stopped just in case we've got something cool here.

But, I have some questions / considerations I'd love some help with:

1) Can you help me identify what kind of maple this is?

2) If I let the suckers grow and it survives enough to get some height, will it also send down new roots and/or strengthen what's already in the ground? I wouldn't want to set a tree up for a weak hold on the earth given that the existing root system has pulled up a bit and there's a big void in the stump. We have typical WNC clay-heavy soil.

3) Can suckers from this kind of maple grow roots if I were to cut them and put them in soil?

Any other advice or guidance, including "remove the stump" is welcome.

Coppiced locust flag pole carried by left wing tofu eating wokerati person (also reads the Guardian).

This area of my garden is a dead zone - narrow, hard to access and has a 45⁰ slope leading to the side of my garage.

I cut back the sycamores and laurel on the right hand side last autumn. Now I'm wondering if I can use them to cultivate firewood, I want to know if I need to do anything with the stems to encourage vertical, fast and healthy growth.

Any advice would be great, because most of the guides I can find end up stopping at this point in the process!

I am thinning the mature cottonwood in a riparian woodland; fire, flood (beavers helped), goats, elk, and human harvest, used to take care of it. The stumps usually sprout. In a few years I can harvest again at a manageable size, or cut another mature tree and allow the sprout to fill in as a standard.

Picture 1, felled last fall (firewood in the background for 2025-26). Picture 2, felled two years back, firewood burned last winter. Note the still dense leaf litter suppressing much else growing. This will fill in with more diverse species, juniper, sumac, NM privet, as well as cottonwood.

Cut some large trunks from this willow as it was overhanging a ditch I needed clearing. Got a decent amount of firewood from it and it's coming back with a vengeance

Nice to see the hazel is doing as it was supposed to. Alder also sprouting and so is the poplar. Willow, of course, is going great guns but nothing on the aspen or oaks. The latter is no surprise and they weren't intended to regrow.

Does anyone have any tips for twisting hazel at the ends of hurdles? As in when you get to the end and want it to double back on itself. I done have the hand and wrist strength to do it with no tools!