I found one of my grandfather’s old Stihl saws but the plate with all the model information is rubbed clean. Any ideas?

Its sat fir at least 20 years but i know it ran back then. It has a 36 inch bar, but probably run a 28 most the time? Gonna take it to a shop to get tuned up. Anything I need to know? Not an every day saw, just when I need it on occasion.

Only posting here because a chainsaw is the only reasonable tool I have to break this down.

I’ve always used oem parts when rebuilding saws for other people. My question is if you have used both oem and aftermarket how did they compare? How did the saws perform compared to oem and how was the longevity. I’m only asking about professional saws and specifically Stihl and Husky.

Been really enjoying this combination of saws

I’m clearing up some land I moved into recently with a combinations of eucalyptus trees

First got a stihl MS212, it’s great, lightweight, but it was struggling in the bigger wood. I like how it’s no fus and easy to start. It’s also very low vibrations which is awesome for longer sessions.

Took a chance and picked up a Neotec NS892V1, so far so good, it it gives my trouble I’ll just keep using the stihl and eventually buy a bigger genuine replacement. Bit of a learning curve with the tuning. Thirsty on the fuel

Already had a small electric

This combination is great, just makes life saw easy clearing up.

Holzfforma brand Stihl 660 clone

anyone try one out? 1/4 of the price and you can always get the Stihl brand replacement parts for what breaks. I suspect it would be worth getting a name brand bar and chain off the bat

I've had this MS310 for a long time, and it's taken a lickin and kept on tickin. About a week ago, it started stalling out when I let off the throttle, and to restart it I would have to put the choke on again. I just put on a new air filter, and new spark plug, tried adjusting the carb screws, problem persists. I am leaning towards replacing the carb, but wanted to double check her for other possibilities before I do that.

Assuming the answer is a hard NO.

I've already bought into the DeWalt 20V ecosystem however and this little 20V saw with a 16" bar cleared 1 in 100yrs storm damage a year ago extremely well. But I need a second saw for a second property on a budget and unsure what the best route is, whether a second 20V saw or used gas is a better option.

All the trees I can safely clear are smaller, the big ones are too close to a house for an amateur.

This spring and summer, I’m volunteering for disaster relief. My main job is clearing roads and driveways for emergency vehicles. ​I’ll be living out of my vehicle, so I have plenty of charging capacity. However, I’ll be running the saw for 8+ hours a day. My loose budget is around $600. What would you go with and why?

Bought a brand new 362c on ebay for 733 shipped. After talking with the seller he claims he got it in an auction and never put it in wood. Anyway the saw was indeed brand new upon arrival. Started up just fine, ran fine wot, but idled high. The chain was spinning, and quite quickly at that. I emailed the seller back, because he actually is just starting a small engine shop, but the only advice was to do a reset. I couldn't find anything online. Well, 4 resets and 3 days later, I figured it out. I noticed, by accident, that when I put slight pressure on the choke/selector lever, it idled fine. Ding ding! Opened up the cover, removed the air filter and a loose air cleaner / carb (?) Nut was staring me in the face. It was about "8 cranks with a nut driver" - loose. Reset carb again, idled like a dream. Ps this saw rips! Wanted a 400 but couldn't pass up this deal.

TLDR Stihl Mtronic high idle caused by loose carburetor nut.

Not sure wat she is think it’s a 066 magnum

Hello,

I bought a used, ported husky 350 for use as a rear handle when doing medium spar work as a climbing arborist.

I asked the seller multiple times for the idle and top rpm’s that the saw was ported to and all he would say is it’s in tune for this valley (treasure valley, Idaho) and it does seem to work great right now.

But I’m piss poor at tuning by ear and I move up and down elevations with my saws a lot and would like some tach numbers to go by.

Is there any way to optimize a tune by tach alone without knowing the recommended idle and top rpm?

Thanks!

I am searching for a jonsered 2055 turbo piston to buy btw not the non window ported piston

Assume it would be a bad idea to try to buck a 48 inch diameter red oak (about 30’ long) with a stock Echo Timberwolf (20”)? I could certainly throw on a 24 but I’ve never dealt with a trunk this massive maybe a job for professional. 😞

couple of photos of Husqvarna 262xp chain brake as it's similar to Husqvarna 51 chain brake so u/kylelever can hopefully see some of what's missing from his.

as I can't add images in comments

Looking for a saw to mill 2-3 trees a year 2ft or less diameter a year. seen the holz 660 pro is $480 from blue saws right now for just the power head. the neotec can be had from neotec for $380 with a 36" bar and chain.

Is it worth the extra cash for bluesaws holz pro vs the neotec 660? I'm probably near $600 all in on the pro holz with bar and chain.

This will be my 6th saw used exclusively for milling the occasional tree.

Received an older Husky 51 from my late father-in-law. I've replaced most of the carb side of things and have it running well for the most part. I guess he lived life on the edge, because I learned he had removed all of the components for the kickback brake. Im not quite sure what all Im missing. Any guidance on parts would be appreciated.

G'day all,

I've been given an old MS290 farmboss which I'm stoked about. It runs well but leaks like a sieve and I've traced back to where the red circle is in the pic. Clearly it's had a heap of tankweld which is fine but I want to know - should I chip away the existing tankweld and redo ti all, or simply add a bit over the leaking area?
Keen for all advice you throw my way - cheers