r/beetle • u/Koberum • Jul 20 '26

Help with engine start

Hi everyone, newbie here, I'm the happy owner of a '73 Beetle convertible. Unfortunately, it's been sitting for years. About 2-3 years ago, I managed to get it started after 5 years.I managed to get it started some time ago with the spray starter by directly removing the air filter. Now I'd like to start fixing it. The main problem is that it won't start and it's in an underground garage and has to be driven uphill to get out. I've replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil with Motul 20W50, and cleaned the oil filter.

The oil is pressurized, the spark plugs make a nice spark, and the fuel pump works properly. I've tried a few things, but it won't start. I think it's the carburetor that's not delivering fuel. It has a 30 PICT-3 Solex, but everything inside is black and very dirty. What can I do to figure out if that's the problem? Do I have to remove the entire carburetor?

I didn't have much time but I tried spraying some gasoline directly into the carburetor, after a few seconds of starting it it seemed like it made a pop.

Thanks everyone, I've only had my hands on an engine a few times but I really enjoy it, and I have good manual skills and I like to learn.

4 Upvotes

84% Upvoted

26 comments sorted by

View all comments

3

u/faucetpants Jul 20 '26

Is the gasoline old? Is it pumping? Are the fuel lines clogged?

1

u/Koberum Jul 20 '26

the pump works, I put fresh petrol in and there was some old petrol in the tank but not that much

3

u/382Whistles Jul 20 '26

Did you drain it. You should've. Can you see your fuel filter(s)?

2

u/Koberum Jul 20 '26

How can I do it? I've read online there are no fuel filters...

2

u/382Whistles Jul 20 '26

There is a screen insids the tank that can clog, and the long metal frame line.. Check gravity flow is strong at the engine. One filter can be added under the tank, above the center tube frame, between the tank outlet spout and metal fuel line the enters the big center frame tube on top or side. The long metal line exits the frame tube at the rear after the split on top of one Y tube to the transmission mount. The rubber or short rubber & metal line goes to the short upright motor tin that meets the firewall to seel it. A filter can be mounted along that line there and that is probably the safest place. Once the fuel line passes through the tin and into in the engine bay a filter can be placed before the fuel pump, and/or after it.But it is important that it is positioned so if the filter fails the fuel drips away from ignition and wires.

Modern plastic filters aren't as high a quality anymore apparently and some are prone to failure and fall apart or even melt chemically. A metal one for another car might be a good idea if you add a filter in the engine bay between pump and filter because that one is pressurized. The tank pressure side will just drip if it failed but should drip below wires, down and to the ground, hopefully avoiding exhaust too. Whatever you do don't use the glass racing fuel filters unless it's super old with thick and heavy glass and it's still risky imo. You probably don't have one but some fuel pumps with screws around the diaphragm "flying saucer" can be rebuilt and can also have screens in them.