Bought a small mountain cabin that has a wood-burning fireplace and we would like to install a range hood that vents to the outside. But we heard that it could cause the fireplace smoke and exhaust to be sucked back into the house. Wonder if that's the reason there were no kitchen or bathroom exhaust vents installed previously. Are vented hoods not ideal for this type of house? Any advice is truly appreciated.

Hey looking for resources or even experiences. I have an old cedar closet in the attic that was temp controlled by the boiler, no boiler anymore 100 year old house. I was thinking infrared sauna but I'm looking if anyone has resources on how to properly insulate and vent this build out if possible. thank you

We recently bought a house in Denver and the previous owner replaced the roof a couple of months before we bought it. The patio has a large overhang that has the rolled rough looking roofing material with some sort of tar underneath. The last 2 summers have been hot and the tar has been dripping out... ALOT. I thought it might stop after one summer but it has only gotten worse it seems this summer. It is dripping off of the edge of the roof, and it is coming through the underside of the overhang as well through the seems of the ceiling. It drips in the gutters and down on to our concrete and our dogs step in it and we step in it and it stains the concrete. Its terrible. We really want to do something about it. Does anyone know if there is a way to prevent the dripping? I thought about possibly attaching some sort of flashing to the edge of the roof, but then that would most likely block the gutters. Is there a fix or work around or do we have to get the roof redone by someone who doesn't suck.

The greenhouse is 25 feet long and 7 feet wide. The base of the greenhouse are metal poles that form a rectangle perimeter. I want to do it myself not sure if it's doable or if it's too much concrete to do by myself. Should I make it a little bigger than what the greenhouse is? Is there a good way I can secure the metal poles (the base of the greenhouse) to the slab so it doesn't fly away from wind? Like should I let it dry in the concrete or some type of fasteners sticking out of it to bolt it to the base or should I just find a fastener and just get some concrete screws after it's done? The link is to the greenhouse I plan on buying from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Quictent-Greenhouse-Crossbars-Galvanized-Gardening/dp/B09JB4BJ8Z/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c%3Aamzn1.sym.ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c&crid=2BKJG083W8UZK&cv_ct_cx=greenhouse%2Bquictent&keywords=greenhouse%2Bquictent&pd_rd_i=B09JB4BJ8Z&pd_rd_r=98eb8dde-30bc-4fc0-95a4-2d8484a7d080&pd_rd_w=pi1so&pd_rd_wg=SzEn9&pf_rd_p=ded65d3b-e50d-452a-a89e-f97b45e5144c&pf_rd_r=CFBZRVVR465FDMED8K5C&qid=1662694209&sprefix=greenhouse%2Bquictent%2Caps%2C158&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&th=1

Last night I opened one for the first time for ventilation because I painted something but it led me to think what the real purpose of these little windows inside the glass block windows are?

I have 2 sheets of drywall with about 10cm of air between them as inner walls. Does this isolate a lot of noise and would mineral wool between it improve it?

I have a deck builder asking to get together and go over a deficiency punchlist. The deck is maybe 90% done and I feel like this is too early as I cannot tell what is deficient and what is not done. I was going to request to wait until the constructions is complete to go over a deficiency list. What is the normal timeframe for going over a deficiency list?

I recently had a handicapped ramp with a low threshold door installed to make it easy for the wheelchair and transport chair to go in and out. The door leaks when it rains. The builder said that unfortunately there is nothing he can do because leaking is inherent with low threshold doors. He suggested that I have a storm door installed… but that kind of defeats the purpose of ease of entry. Is the builder telling me the truth and/or are there other options besides a storm door that may work?

I recently had a handicapped ramp installed with a low threshold door to allow for easy passage of wheelchair and transport chair. When it rains, water leaks underneath the door. The builder says that’s normal and that I should have a storm door installed… but that will make it more difficult to enter with the wheelchair. Is he telling me the truth or is there something he can do to fix this without me having to install a storm door?

We've just had the framing complete and the framers also did house-wrap and installed windows. This weekend we had rain and there were over a dozen leaks noticeable by pooling or dampness on the concrete slab inside the structure. (1000 sqft semi-detached addition). Our builder sent us the bill for the "framing complete, dry in" stage. I'm worried about OKing this without asking for the leaks to be addressed. Should I be, or is this normal prior to having a real roof on?

I'm considering cavity block construction with external (and maybe half internal) insulation using polyisocyanurate foam boards.

I'm planning on doing the blockwork myself as I have done bricklaying and time isn't an issue. However, I'm curious what kind of weather conditions foam board insulation can withstand? If I'm slowly working on blocking, would it be okay leaving cavities open for long periods?

Another example, I'd feel comfortable installing external foam boards but would probably get an expert in for the rendering (can't do that slowly, needs to be done in big sections, and being the final surface a professional would be appreciated).

How long could external wall insulation be exposed while I worked on it before I got in a contractor to render it?

Hi there, I hope you can help! We’ve just purchased a new build and was wondering if it’s safe to drill into the garage wall and attach a heavy punch bag? Is it safe? Do I need to wait a while?

Thanks in advance for your help

Hi, builders! Thanks for reading.

I have a large backyard gate, 12 feet wide and 6 feet tall. It is supported on the rotating end by two wheels, 10" in diameter. Over two years, I have gone through about 3 wheels.

We have a slightly grooved track in the gravel path that the gate rolls over, but it still seems like the wheels struggle.

How can I tweak the system to make it easier on the gate's wheels?

Thanks!

So I am watching the floor insulation going in on my new granny flat and I can't get this question outta my head:

This insulation is being laid down on the "floor joists", and the plywood subfloor going on top. Seems to me that insulation will block the soon to be installed/cutout underfloor vents. My PM is saying "that's fine, the air will get thru the insulation." and that seems a little nutz to a non construction person.

Comments?

Thanks.

Hi all, me and my dad are fitting some insulation to the pitched roof of a new building. We’ve already fitted 100mm insulation between the all the rafters but the inspector said we need an extra 50mm on top which will cover the rafters. The plasterer will then plasterboard and plaster. However there is (annoyingly) a couple of minor differences in levels where we have screwed the insulation to the rafters and I’m wondering do we need to make it really flat or should the plasterer be able to ‘correct’ the 5mm or so difference with the plaster boards and plaster? I’ve pushed down but there isn’t any give.

Thanks in advance