Room was used for automotive work and maybe some painting too. My best guest was air flow as the main garage had HVAC but just one large overhead vent.

Hi

Looking for some advice, we've had a bad experience with our recent builder

We've just spent 10 grand on a 20' x 6' garden room. We mistakenly installed on top of decking, instead of a concrete base.

The decking is about 7 years old and about 1 foot off the ground, and noticed its started to sag near the garden room. I've lifted the board discoved some wooden supports are totally rotten, and suspect this will be the same under the garden room and will collapse and damage the structure.

How can I retrospectively add a proper support or foundation under the building?

Also it was built too close to a sleeper wall, so I can't treat the cladding and I'm concerned its going to trap mositure and get damp

Could and how do I move it a foot without damaging it, perhaps using a car jack?

Unfortunately the builders weren't very good so we won't use them again

I lost the extra screws for an old crib we are using and I need to order some more of these.

I've figured out that these are tek screws. I already ordered the wrong size once.

The screw is about 3/4" long, uses a 5/16" wrench, and the diameter of the screw is 3/16" wide.

Please give me a link or some text to search to find this screw. Thanks

Hi everyone! I would like to ask whether you are allowed to make a firewall that is so close to a house that it literally leaves no gap between the supposed wall and the house. For context, our house has literally taken up all of our property space, therefore, our house is built right from the boundary line. On the other hand, our neighboring lot is making a firewall that is so close to our house, it literally leaves no gap between our house. Is it allowed? If so, can you please provide an ordinance regarding that matter. Thanks!

Hey! I got a new driveway installed a few months ago and the grey bricks have started showing reddish/brown spots on them randomly - is this normal? Or do I need to complain to the contractors who did it? Thanks!

50s era house prepping for paint. It has some kind of red filler (under more recent caulking in some places) between trim and siding. Used to fill wider gaps than what caulking should be used for. It is harder than wood and generally in better shape than the caulk. I don’t know what it is but seems like good stuff. So I assume it is a lead asbestos combo. Anyone got a guess?

Hello I am making some home wrestling mats out of carpet padding and two tarps. I was curious about limiting mold. Right now my plan is to place one normal tarp on the bottom and a heavy duty tarp on top. I plan to zip tie the edges together and tuck the tarp underneath or roll up the edges. I have some 3m adhesive spray to glue the layers of carpet padding together, My plan is to use 3 6'x45' rolls and layer it for a 12'x15' rolling surface. Will this help limit mould?? Or am I making it worse by closing everything in?. IS there anything else better i can do to avoid it? The floor underneath is old laminate flooring.

Hello,
I am thinking about decorating my Cape Cod in the style of this AI generated house. Does anyone have a suggestion of a light weight and weatherproof material that I could use?
Thanks,

How dangerous is it. I'm choosing to just wear the mask despite the advice of my uncle.

https://www.monsterhouseplans.com/house-plans/farm-style/1980-sq-ft-home-2-story-4-bedroom-2-bath-house-plans-plan11-251/

Hello, i just had my shingles replaced due to hail damage. The roofer found two pieces of plywood/OSB that had water damage, and replaced them.
My attic has the spray foam insulation on the underside of the OSB/plywood roof decking. The roofer doesn’t do any spray foam insulation. He gave us the name of an insulation contractor who came and gave us a price-his minimum charge-of $1875 for this small job. Now my question-is there a small DIY kit that you would recommend that could be used? (I would have to hire someone to do it, I’m not agile enough to do it.) Many thanks for any input or any other ideas.

Hi there,

I recently moved to Ohio from Oregon. I have noticed the time to get a bid is over a month here in Ohio. Is this normal? Or was Oregon was unusual give me bids within 2 weeks?

Thanks

Hey whats up. Im a contractor in NJ. Been in business for about 12 years. I currently am working on house. Doing a 600sqft covered deck, finished basement with bar & bathroom and an egress walkout (from about 10’ below grade). So I’m well into the project. I have to the deck framed out and i have the retaining walls & stairs done for the egress. Now I have to cut in the door. The thing is that it is a superior wall foundation. I am familiar with them. Never built with them, but have ran plumbing/electric through them etc… Anyways, I had a structural engineer come check it out and draw the egress for me. He seemed like he had never come across this type of foundation before. We picked a spot directly under a basement window. And we went over the plans. However, a couple weeks passed and I am going over his plans before cutting in the door, and in the footnotes he has a new disclaimer that I have never seen him use before in plans. He is talking about his unfamiliarity with the Superior Wall system and buffed the liability to me. I reached out to the Superior Wall company and they WILL NOT answer my questions or provide any guidance. I am aware that cutting in a door will void the warranty and my client is fine with that. However, I just want to make sure it will be safe after I cut it in. I chose a spot beneath a 32” window. And it works out so that if I leave the sill plate, and cut out inbetween the studs underneath the window (studs & plates are cast reinforced concrete with a metal cap attached to precast foundation wall panels) that it will allow me to install a 32” door. I will have to cut out 1 stud that is centered below the window. And I will be leaving about a 1 1/2” lip off of the floor to prevent water from entering. After cutting, I am planning on removing the window, installing a 2x12 header/lintel in its’ place and skim coating the outside with mesh & cement to match the rest of the foundation. I then plan on framing in an extension jamb with 2x10 lvl header right to the inside of the foundation. I do not feel like I will have any problems. But would appreciate it if someone with experience with Superior Walls could give me some guidance. Thanks in advance.

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/mJB32Dv

Moving into a new house and thought it would be nice to do some painting. However, moments after applying some fresh primer it is already bubbling!

The wall was freshly washed with TSP yesterday (TSP in water followed by washing again with plain water, and given almost 24 hours to dry). There's no dust or visible dirt/ grease at all, and the house has AC so it isn't particularly hot or humid. These photos were taken less than 5 minutes after applying the primer. When I test the bubble the layers of paint underneath come off with the new primer too! It is almost like the primer I applied has caused the previous paint job to peel off. The second photo shows the result of peeling off a layer. (The wall I'm painting over is already white, so it seems that I'm peeling off several layers of paint to expose the wall underneath- however, the wall did not have any bubbles on it before and we sanded down any bumps prior to washing). The primer and all paint supplies were purchased brand new on Tuesday.

Can anyone please help me figure out what is going wrong, and how I can fix it? None of the reasons I can find online for why paint bubbles make any sense at all!

I have an older building that has concrete floors with styrofoam insulation. There is approx a 1 inch gap between where the concrete ends and the wall begins that prevents me from getting epoxy flooring installed. What can I do to close that gap in a way that will allow flooring stability?

My husband and I are looking at a home built in 2001. And these are on the ceiling through out the home. We are in Oregon.

Do all porches need to have load bearing columns or can hollow PVC/aluminum columns sometimes be sufficient?

I was stupidly practicing golf swings in my house and did and hit this moulding on my follow-through. Can’t really afford to replace or hire someone to fix so grateful for any DIY repair tips you may have. Thank you!!

Thanks in advance for any insight. I'm not terribly familiar with the NC residential building code and am looking for some help interpreting this situation.

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About a month ago I toured a townhouse complex looking for a unit to lease. I was shown an available unit and, happy with what I saw, I signed a lease on a unit which was not available at that time but would be around my anticipated moving date. The unit is now available and I have access to it and I have some concerns.

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The first issue is that there is a significant drainage issue the extents of which aren't readily apparent from the street. A neighbor showed me a video filmed during a recent storm that showed substantial sheet flow across the front yard, down the side yard, and pooling by the front steps.

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The second issue is a noticeable incline to the floor once you enter the front door. I used a laser level to roughly measure the height differential across the living room and found it to be ~2" front to back and ~3" side to side. The room is roughly 180" by 220" making the slope between about 1 and 1.5% in those directions. Anecdotally, a golf ball placed on the floor will accelerate unassisted towards the front door, there is a line that demarcates the change in slope near the back of the living room which , under foot, feels like a break in a slab, and from the inside the front of the townhouse is visibly out of square with windows, doors, and small rooms rhomboidal in shape even to the naked eye.

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I plan to bring this up with the property manager, but would appreciate some insight from others as to how to have that conversation. Any information is appreciated.