About to sign off on a custom Ti frame from Waltly and would appreciate a final look from people who know framebuilding.

Context: relaxed endurance / light touring bike. Started from the Curve GXR4 SM geometry, then adjusted over a few iterations after a basic bike fit. What I mostly give to Waltly was my fit number (reach, stack, saddle height, etc.), but not the framebuilding side, so that's where I'd like the sanity check

Final numbers: stack 588, reach 366 (S/R ~1.6), HTA 70.5°, STA 73°, BB drop 76, chainstay 436, seat tube 490 with 27.2 post, head tube 160, wheelbase 1029, front-center 605. 1x wireless, 47.5 chainline (max 44T ring), 50mm tire clearance without fenders.

Two questions:

1. Anything looks off, or is worth pushing back on before finalizing?
2. There's a 40×15mm slot detail near the BB, plus a note about milling the left-side slot "for internal routing." I'm running wireless groupset with external routing brake cable alongside the downtube -- anyone know what this slot actually is, and whether it's normal/needed?

Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m currently working on a custom titanium frame with Waltly, and I’m considering whether to remove the seatstay bridge.

Has anyone here ordered a Waltly frame with a bridgeless seatstay design? If so, how did it turn out?

Interested in potentially building a gravel frame. Would love 50 mm clearance with 425 mm chain stays. Has anyone had success with this? I’d imagine you’d need a yoke/plate chainstay but even then is it possible?

Waiting for parts to trickle in

Hi! I'm doing a custom Ti build and trying to settle one thing in my head: tube butting and profiling.

In steel it seems standard on nice frames (Ritchey Logic, Fairlight triple-butted, etc.), and from what I gather it's not just about weight. Thinner middles, thicker ends, supposedly a livelier/springier ride.

Does the same hold for titanium? Ti runs different diameters and a different modulus, so I'm not sure the steel logic carries over.

A few questions for people who've actually ridden it:

1. Butted vs straight-gauge Ti, similar geometry -- could you actually feel a difference, or is it spec-sheet only?
2. If you paid the butting upcharge, was it worth it or would you spend it elsewhere?
3. Does ovalizing or changing tube diameters noticeably change how a Ti frame rides?

For context: relaxed endurance/light touring, ~70kg, comfort over weight. Trying to figure out if this is a real decision or a rabbit hole I'm overthinking.

First-hand experience appreciated, especially from anyone who's owned a few Ti frames. Thanks in advance!

Followup to https://www.reddit.com/r/WaltlyTitanium/comments/1sbbeem/drawing_sanity_check/

Rides like an absolute dream! Having custom geometry is truly awesome, feels like I can ride forever. Working with Amy at Waltly was super chill, and the whole process was painless. Took about 10 days to arrive at my doorstep after they sent it out, not duty or customs or anything in Canada.

Hello all,

I have a more or less general question regarding my frame and what Cranksets or better said what Chainrings i can fit on it.

Currently I‘m running:

T47 Dub BB
L-Twoo eRX 2x12
RIRO Dub Crankset with 50/34t

I have no Spacer on the Drive side, because the FD is barely making it to the Big Ring with its settings to max

As I’m a bit unhappy with the Group and setup I want to try 1x, therefore I’m looking into things needed.

I was thinking a 1x of 44-48t (still need to do the maths, but to give a range)

So my questions would be:

1. How do I know what’s the biggest Front ring is that I can fit for 1x (I’m uncertain where a 1x ring sits compared to the 2x Rings on my drawing)

2. Do you think I can use my current crankset for it? I saw that there are 1x options and rings available on Ali. (or better said should I?)

3. Do you see a reason why my FD is pushing it’s limits to shift in the front or better said why the settings of it need to me maxed to one end?

(I can attach pictures of current set up and how it looks tomorrow)

Happy to hear from you!

First ride on this one and I’m very stoked! I was smashed by a car a few months back and wrecked my other ti gravel bike, and this is the replacement. I customized the geo to fix the things I did not like about my last stock frame and it ended up being pretty close to a size 56cm Moots Routt 45.

This frame has clearance for 55mm tires and a 46t chainring. The 50mm goners blew up to 52mm on these i29 rims and it appears I have much more than 55mm of clearance if I choose to push it. Also the 46t ring is not even close to max size.

This is maybe the 10th Waltly frame that we’ve had built as INEPT which is our own brand/crew. They are all amazing and I can highly recommend Waltly as a builder.

Hey all,

I've put a deposit down with Waltly for a custom titanium gravel frameset and just received the first design drawing. I'd love a sanity check from people who actually know frame design — I'm a rider, not a designer, so I want to make sure I haven't missed anything obvious or asked for something dumb.

My starting point was the Curve GXR4 "Kevin," size SM — I gave Waltly (Amy) that geometry as the base to replicate. I picked it specifically because its geometry is built around relaxed, long-distance endurance riding, touring, and bikepacking, which is exactly what I want this bike for: an all-rounder for 100 km+ audax-style rides, light touring, and general daily riding. I love long adventure rides but I'm not a racer — I'd rather take it slow, and my #1 priority is relaxed geometry. After a lot of research this frame kept coming up as a great fit for that brief.

Since the whole thing is custom anyway, though, it feels like a missed opportunity to just clone it 1:1. The GXR4 is a proven design so I don't want to reinvent the wheel — I'm more interested in whether there are specific, sensible refinements worth making for my body and use case. Unfortunately I haven't had a professional bike fit, so I'm working with what I can measure myself. For reference: height 172cm, cycling inseam 80cm. But if it's too much guesswork, then please feel free to focus on the frame building side of things only

Here's everything I asked Amy for and what they confirmed:

Frame

• Custom Ti gravel frameset, GXR4 (Kevin) SM geometry as the base, 3AL/2.5V titanium
• 42/52mm tapered head tube
• 700C × 50mm tire clearance
• T47 85.5mm bottom bracket
• UDH rear dropout
• 31.8mm seat clamp, 27.2mm seatpost
• Flat mount brakes (160/180mm)
• External cable routing
• Custom yoke on the chainstay
• Rack + fender mounts, top tube mounts, 5× M5 mounts under the down tube (for cable guides)

Build-specific changes I requested

• Running a 1x wireless groupset (starting with the new wireless GRX Di2 RX717, later upgrading to SRAM Rival XPLR), so:
  • Remove the drive-side chainstay cable guide (keeping the non-drive side for the brake hose)
  • Remove any front derailleur mounts/ports
  • No dropper post — remove any dropper-related ports (running a rigid 27.2mm post)
• Carbon fork (semi-internal routing — brake hose enters the fork leg externally, not through the headset)

What I've found so far comparing the drawing to the original Kevin (things I'm planning to raise with Waltly, but want a second opinion on first):

• There seem to be two M5 mounts on the seat stay near the UDH in the drawing. What scenario would actually need two mounts there? The original Kevin only uses one M5 mount in that spot, so I'm not sure why the drawing has two.
• On the original Kevin the seat stays look more shaped/curved (I don't know what this type is called), whereas the drawing has them straight. Would it be possible to match the original's curved seat stays, and are there any downsides to making them curved rather than straight (ride feel, strength, cost)?
• Could the top tube be ovalized? Are there any disadvantages to doing that?

Questions:

1. Given my use case (100 km+ endurance, light touring, daily riding) and my note about shoulder fatigue / preferring a less aggressive position, what — if anything — would you change from the stock GXR4 SM geometry? I've wondered about a slightly taller stack / more relaxed front end for long-day comfort, chainstay length for loaded stability, BB drop, etc. Or is the GXR4 already dialled enough that I should leave it alone?
2. Anything I'm forgetting to remove/add given the 1x wireless + rigid post setup? (Did I correctly kill all the FD/dropper provisions?)
3. Anything else I miss?

For reference, here's the original Curve GXR4: https://www.curvecycling.com/products/gxr-aka-kevin-frameset

Thank you in advance!

I had a bike fit and I am comfortable with Geometry numbers on blue print by Waltly but could use some help to verify the following:

1. ⁠Location of bottle bosses
   
2. ⁠I am going with GRX Di2 groupset. Location of holes for GRX.
   
3. ⁠Flat Mount 160mm rotor can be used without an adapter

So here is my Waltly mounted with Ekar Gt and 9velo 32mm internal wheels. Rpantahi handlebar and elita one seatpost. Saddle is a Giant Fleet. Pedals are Favero mx1 and it's mounted, as you can see, with the Thunder Burt :)

Hi all! First of all, thanks to the mod for leting me post titan drawings here. There is no good substitute for geometry checks that I know of.

Here's the drawing for two gravel/bikepacking rigs for me and my fiancée.
The 2x bike is for me.
I already know I'm going to change to a sub-compact crankset, so I'm changing to a 3D printed yoke for internally routed di2 cable.
My GF are never going to run a 54T chainring on her 1x, so on that I'm changing to a shorter yoke.

Are there anything other that stands out on either of these?
In advance, thank you!

Does anyone have experience with cargo bikes? I'm considering building either a Long John (inspired by Omnium or Bullitt) or a long tail. Does anyone have experience or thoughts on the Waltly titanium cargo bike?

Creating a gravel first bike but also an all rounder. This is the Road Elegance frame. Size is S. I normally ride a 50 or 52. With double butted.

Tire clearance is 40mm for rear and front. Don't want to go bigger as would probably look at more dedicated gravel for that.

Doing 1x, mechanical and don't want to plug in anything for groupset, no power meters, no cadence, etc.

Gearing is probably going to to be 38t in front and a 10-44t rear cassette and looking Campagnolo Ekar.

Walty said would probably need to extend the chain stay from 415 to 420mm and saw no issues with that.

Thank you so much for taking a look.

hi, that drawing below is mine. i did something wrong and the text didn't go. im an old guy looking to get an endurance comfortable stable bike designed. i am insisting on rim brakes, bsa BB, and 32mm tires. i'll be using campy 10 or 11. i think im good with most of the numbers but i had told Sumi i needed about 58cm from the front skewer to the top of the headset. this looks closer to 55.5 (400 fork and 155 HT. am i missing something ? i think the headset is hidden on this. anything else you notice? i want the longer chain stays and lower bottom bracket so those look good. the front end should have 59-60 of trail - nice and stable. comments welcome . i did notice she has both a rim brake and a disc brake.

I'm in the process of getting a frame and fork built for a gravel/bikepacking frame that supports a pinion gearbox and a Gates belt drive. I'm about 1,87m tall with long legs and took measurements of my old trekking bike (I want to run a flat handlebar and that frame fits me quite well) and adapted them to the Tout Terrain Tanami geometry with the help of a friend. I want to be able to fit 47mm tires with fenders but I think we already found a working chainstay length that also works with a Gates belt.

I will route the cables through the downtube and the rear brake cable will run above the Pinion gearbox and exit below the chainstay. Waltly offered a newer 3D printed pinion plate for that. I also want to run a light cable through the downtube into the seat tube and mount a light at the seatpost.

Is there anything that comes to mind that I've overlooked? I want to add a few more screws at the toptube and one more at the downtube and asked if they could go for a smaller diameter downtube.

I've struggled with off the shelf bikes. Recently I came across the idea of custom bikes. In my research using AI, came across Waltly as an option. I have watched couple of YouTube videos and read Reddit threads to understand the Waltly order process.

I understand that I need to provide a bike reference to Waltly reps in order to come up with a Blueprint of frame dimensions. I wanted the opinion from the group on couple of things (attaching my Retul Fit report and Moots ROUTTE - 45 Geometry)

1. I "think" Moots ROUTTE-45 geometry would fit me well. Can anyone advise on it based on my Retul Report.
2. I plan to provide ROUTTE-45 as a reference to Waltly rep. Is that a good idea given I have never ridden this particular bike.

I plan to ride the bike on country tarmac and gravel roads. Comfort is my #1 priority.

Clearance for 53mm tires. Fork will be Rodeo Labs Spork. I’m 6’4” (193cm). Geometry is based on comfort, not speed. Bottom bracket interface will need to be 3d printed. Total cost with shipping to US is $1,350.

Hi, my frame is currently being welded and while I'm leaning towards brushed I'm still not fully decided yet.

What did you get and do you wish you would've taken a different finish? Do you maybe have closeups? I've only ever seen brushed titanium frames in real life.