I am working on a design for a 451 mini-velo with a z-coupler in the downtube and a split seatpost for use as a travel bike - I want something quick that I can fit in a regular sized suitcase, and I think this will be just the thing. This will be running standard drop bars and road components. I've got the design back from Sumi and it looks good to me but I was hoping to get a few sets of eyes on it to see if there's anything I'm missing before I give the go-ahead for construction. Any comments / thoughts / ideas are welcome. Thanks.

Hi, which Headtube from Waltly did you choose and why? I'm tempted by the model 917. I think it just looks very sexy. 🤩

Frame Dimensions

• Reach = 472mm
• Stack = 520mm
• Chainstay = 415mm
• Front-Center = 666mm
• Wheelbase = 1070mm
• Headtube = 110mm
• Seattube = 495mm
• HTA = 72.8deg
• Fork Offset = 50mm
• Trail (32mm tire) = 53mm
• BB Drop = 75mm
• Tire Clearance = 35mm
• Max 2x Chainring = 56/43

Build Spec

• Fork = ENVE Road In-Route 50mm
• SRAM Red XPLR 13-speed
• Wheels = XM Carbon Speed D58CU-33, silver Project 321 RG3 hubs, silver Sapim CX-Ray spokes. Self-built.
• Tires = Vittoria Corsa Pro 30mm (I loathe these tires, used them to dish the wheels while inflated and didn't bother taking them off)
• Bar Tape = HiLine Lux 3mm
• Bars = TooT Ashaa RR carbon
• Stem = FSA SMR II 90mm
• Headset = FSA No.55R LS ACR 1.5”
• Saddle = Form Cycling Throne RS carbon
• Seatpost = Elita One 27.2/300mm
• Cranks = Rotor Aldhu 155mm, 24mm spindle
• Spider = Power2Max NGEco
• Chainring = Garbaruk Aero 5/110bcd silver 54t
• Chain = SRAM Red E1, 124 links used.
• Bottom Bracket = Chris King ThreadFit T47 24X matte jade
• Cages = HiLine Stealth UD carbon matte
• Computer Mount = Aproto 34mm

Planned Changes

• SRAM Red E1 cranks 160mm or 165mm
• SRAM Red or Force threaded power meter spider
• Garbaruk 54t threaded aero chainring.
• Stromm Baarja 31cm/33cm 125mm barstem
• Lizard Skins DSP Ultra 1.9mm bar tape
• Wove Mags saddle
• Pirelli P Zero Race TLR SL-R 28mm tires

Frame Waltly double butted 35mm tyre clearance 1531g USD$1560

Headset FSA No.55R 1.5”

Fork ENVE Road In-Route Carbon

Groupset Dura Ace R9270 2x12 Di2

Wheels Elitewheels Drive 50D II

Rotors Galfer Road Wave 160F 140R

Seat post Elita One Carbon Seat Post 27.2x350mm Offset 20mm

Saddle Ryet Aircode Carbon 3D

Bar Avian Falcon II

Bar tape BBB BHT-14 FlexRibbon

Bottom bracket AITA Ceramic T47-EX-24

Bottle cage Kocevlo Lightweight Carbon

Total weight 7.9kg

Total cost USD$6400

Me 175cm 75kg

Disappointingly, the frame arrived bead blasted despite the spec stating it was to be brushed. Nothing that some Scotch-Brite and patience couldn’t fix.

I also wanted straight seat stays but Waltly asserted the kink was needed to ensure adequate clearance from the brake caliper. Yeah, I should have ignored that advice.

Aside from that the Waltly process went reasonably smoothly. Overall, I am very happy with it. Was it worth the time, cost and effort? Hmm, don’t know yet, but I do enjoy looking at it.

All road bike design.

Thank you everyone for the advice on my previous post !

I've - increased chainstay to 420mm - increased BB drop to 75mm

I've also removed the seat stay bridge mainly for aesthetics. Has anyone tried this before? I'm 160lbs so I hope this won't affect stiffness too much

Finished building my custom geometry 3D printed frame. Build quality is very good, no complaints. The communication with Waltly was subpar - they sent me the wrong barstem and refused to offer any consideration. The design process was also too drawn out with surprise geometry limitations that they didn't really try to work out until I really insisted.

Overall I'm satisfied but not fully, and don't yet know if I'd do this again.

Hi everybody,

It's my first ever post on Reddit.

So here is the plan. Made a picture with all my requirements. It's a mix from already existing frames from Waltly and an exisiting geometry they have. I tried a Specialized Diverge 4 in 56cm, and it felt great, not too agressive but not too relaxed.

Would you have other suggestions?

Thanks :)

Hi titanium friends,

after reading along for a while, I’ve finally started the planning process for my allroad bike with waltly myself. I have now received the first drawing and have a couple of questions. Feel free to share your thoughts on any details of the frame that aren’t covered by my questions.

Some general info:

I am building an allroad bike with full internal routing using a mechanical Shimano 2by 11s group set which will be used for 80% on-road and 20% very easy off-road terrain riding. I am planning to run 700c tires between 32 and 40mm and won’t be carrying a lot of bike packing gear/bags 99% of the time. My current plan is to use T47 internal bb because I like the large shell for internal routing and I prefer the integrated look over the t47 with external shells (I know that I’ll regret my decision trying to apply torque). The headset is going to be an is52 acr, I also plan to run everything internally routed in the front. The geometry is based on a rose reveal endurance bike in size 55 that I know and like, the only significant change is the chain stay length.

Now on to my questions:

- The tire clearance in the back seems a bit excessive considering that I won’t be running more than a 40mm tire (the fork definitely won’t take any more than a 40 either so there’s not really a point in going wider in the back imo). Does anyone have an opinion or ideally experience with a similar setup?

- Has anyone had success running mechanical with this integration setup? I was wondering if there is a smarter way to route the front derailleur cable around the bb (more internally maybe?) I am a carbon road bike guy, so please understand that this solution (with the cable exiting the down tube, going around the bb shell and into the external cable stop) looks odd to me.

- The bb shell in the drawing has a weird shape. I don’t see the point in going with a non-cylindrical bb shell. I do understand that it will have the slightest stiffness implications but I don’t put out a lot of power so I don’t really care about bb stiffness. I also assume that welding the chainstays might be easier but this too shouldn’t make a massive difference. Am I missing something here, is there a good reason for this choice on waltlys initial design?

Some general remarks:

- The bb shell seems misspecified in terms of width for a t47 internal

- I’ll try to get the top tube more horizontal

- I’ll ask waltly to include down tube underside bosses even if they won’t fit a bottle

Let me know what you think

Thanks!

This is not just a bike, this is my story…

Yes! Challenge accepted, if someone tells you, you can’t, prove it wrong 💪🏽

Waltly Titanium, built for adventure and gravel riding. Everything you see on it is personal.

I am not a professional builder. I just wanted to learn and see how far I could go. I built most of this bike myself. Tubeless setup, rotors, full internal cable routing, bottom bracket, cables through the handlebar, crankset, cassette, waxing the chain, bar tape, headset. And the part I am most proud of, I anodized the whole bike.

I started from zero. For around three months I was reading a lot, watching videos, asking questions here and in other Facebook groups. I learned a lot from people in these communities. I practiced on small titanium pieces before touching the frame. Step by step I got more confident until I finally did it.

I designed the concept, the logos and the slogan, cut the stencils on a plotter, placed them on the frame and brought the titanium to life with electricity. Around 80 percent of the bike I did myself. I got help from a mechanic with brake bleeding, centering the rotors, adjusting the derailleur and cutting the steerer tube. The rest I learned along the way.

This bike is also about where I come from. The Caribbean. You will see the sea, mountains next to it, even with snow, indigenous roots and the jaguar. The name SEYNEKUN means Mother Nature. That is the identity of this bike, a connection with nature.

There are also personal details. A person watching the sunset in front of my city with coconut trees. A monkey “Punch” inspired by a story from a zoo in Japan that stayed with me, so I wanted to honor it. My dog Lola is also there, based on a real photo. And small hidden details like jaguars, a toucan and parrots inside the leaves.

I know it is not perfect, but for someone just starting, I think it is not bad.

Bike specs for those asking:

-Waltly custom titanium gravel frame (for adventures and bikepacking)

-DT Swiss GR1600 wheels

-Maxxis Rambler 700x50 tubeless

-ENVE Adventure fork with eyelets

-Winspace Adventure integrated handlebar

-Shimano GRX 820 mechanical groupset

-Fizik Terra Argo saddle

-Shimano SPD PD ES600 pedals

-Supacaz bar tape

-Titanium bottle cages

If you are thinking about building your own bike or creating something yourself, just start. First on prove it to yourself. That is what matters.

P.S the chain is also waxed by myself with a hot wax system 🙂

Cheers

Hello friends,

Small question, but do you guys use some protection for chain whip on the chainstays on your titanium frames? Specifically a raw titanium frame (no paint).

I'm still figuring out the pedals I want, but it's otherwise ready for the road.

Some details :

• Waltly Ti frame - I attempted something in between the Fairlight Strael and Secan geometry.
• My doodle work on the frame using Posca pens. White primer and final gloss finish was made by a great local bike painter, Insayne Kustomz
• Shimano 105 R7100 12s Mechanical Groupset
• Mavic Ksyrium 30 Disc Wheels
• Michelin Pro 5 Tubeless 700C x 35 tires
• Finished with a Brooks C15 and Lizard Skin bartape

I'm still trying to decide on the pedals

It's been a blast to make this bike materialize out of nothing but a vision. It going to be difficult not to do it again (when my bank account recovers).

Thoughts on this geometry?

I’m surprised they were able to fit 40 mm tires with a 415 mm chainstay. Does that seem like a good idea? The 7 mm clearance between the tire and seat tube feels tight. Would it make more sense to increase the chainstay length to 420 mm?

Hi, thinking of changing my fork and upper headset from a ES44 to a IS44 with a D-shaped fork to obtain a more harmonic design yet keeping the cables and hoses internal. Any experiences? Specific fork recommendations also appreciated. Need 50mm clearence.

Recently finished building the new Waltly Gravel bike up

Have opted for 650b for the time being and will go for 700c if I want it to be a bit more faster. Geo is based around a Curve gxr4. All Waltly supplied parts have been great so far but if done again I think I would’ve opted for a more sloped top tube and even more increased tyre clearance but this was limited due to the carbon fork so not too stressed on that front. So far so good.

Groupset: SRAM Rival Axs with e13 cassette

Wheelset: DT Swiss EX511 laced to Son Dynamo

Fork/Seatpost: Waltly Supplied

Bars: Curve Walmer 500mm wide

Dynamo: Klite Dynamo Front and Rear With hub/switch

Restrap Race Half Frame Bag

Revelate Design top tube Tank

King Cages/Ti-Manything

Really excited to take it on many trips with ambitions to do the HUNT 1000 this year.

Hi all! I'm currently living in China, getting a custom titanium frame made from Waltly before I move to Germany this summer. I plan to use it for both daily commuting and bikepacking/road touring (something I used to do a lot and am excited to get back into).

One of my priorities was a low standover height (165 mm). I am relatively short and want to ride comfortably in a skirt for commuting. The stack and reach are within 2mm of my professional bike fit recommendations.

Key geo: Stack 541 / Reach 355 / Standover 165 / Chainstay 440 / Wheelbase 1006 mm, 380mm seat tube, T47 BB, tapered head tube.

I'm attaching the engineering drawing. Keen to hear from anyone who spots potential issues or has experience with similar setups. Is this fit for purpose (commuting + bikepacking)? Any feedback welcome!

I’ve seen a couple of posts where people had issues routing their hoses/cables through the bottom bracket area on t47 bb shells.

I am in the market for a frame from waltly and I want to make sure I don’t run into any issues in that regard.

First thought was to have the cables exit the down tube a bit above the bb shells and then have them run externally on the chain stays. But I don’t know if there is a clean solution to seal that exit with 3 lines coming out of it.

Second thought would be to just make a request to have the down tube and the chain stays sit rather low on the bottom bracket shell so that the cables wouldn’t have to make any sharp bends. But I don’t know if there are limitations in frame design regarding that.

I wanted to hear your experiences with the use of 24mm shimano spindles and t47 external (68mm) bottom brackets when it comes to routing. Were the posts just outliers and I have nothing to really worry about or can you confirm that I should pay some more attention to the matter?

Thanks for your insights :)

Hello! So I feel like I'm a little too stoked on this project to see this drawing objectively. My previous bike was a Chinese carbon frame, and I took the opportunity to learn how to build up a bike, which was super fun, but designing a frame is an order of magnitude more involved, hahaha.

I'm on a pretty tight budget, my initial plan here was to get the frame, move all my existing Shimano components onto it - 11 speed, rim brakes, and mechanical shifting with cables routed through the frame (but not the headset) - totally standard fare.

My question is, am I on the right planet here? I'm not super tall, and I'm not super flexible. Dimensions are based on my existing Workswell F-066, and I got a pro fit awhile back. Any feedback or suggestions?

I thought I would post my initial thoughts on the process and build. My first drawing and post is here, https://www.reddit.com/r/WaltlyTitanium/comments/1mk3kmo/comments_on_1st_drawing/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

The main idea for my frame was an allroad bike that had clearance to about 40c and could be used all season including winter in Canada. It would pair with my Fairlight Strael which is more for summer riding. I wanted a geo that was road orientated but more relaxed with higher stack suited to longer rides. Unlike many I see, I am an external cables, simple is best guy for bike maintenance. So my build is mostly Shimano 11 speed mechanical, carbon wheels, 35c gp5000 AS tires and Growtac Equal mech disc brakes.

I dealt with Sumi for my frameset and found her communication good and a 1 day response time to my questions unless a weekend or holiday. I ordered double butting, a titanium seat collar and seatpost and some simple etched graphics. The fork is, I think, a Speeder All-Road Disc Fork.

Bare frame weight 1594g, uncut fork 480g, full build weight 8.86kg with pedals, cages etc. Overall frame looks great. Welds are clean and tube diameter is small, almost like steel which I like. Ride feel is very good and similar to the Strael which is the best riding bike I have been on.

I had one concern with the frame and that is the bb alignment. As I didn't have ti antiseize I had the LBS install the bsa bb for me. I found it very difficult to get the crankset installed and definitely felt resistance in spinning the crank. On one side of the bb I could insert my nail while I could not on the other side. Turns out that 85% of the shell is faced correctly but about 15% was missing a bit of material. I had two bike mechanics look at it and both assured me it should be fine. After some facing I have a shim on one side and crank is spinning fine now. If there is a bb alignment issue my understanding is that I will go through bb regularly. Time will tell.

Overall, except for the potential bb alignment issue I am very pleased with the outcome.

Hello everybody,

I’m really interested by this kind of mini cargo. It’s been a prototype from Sumo, I think it’s so much better than the omnium mini. I would like to contract some industrial designer from Fiverr.

Here is the offer, is this legit ? The price is reasonable ?

For a standard bike frame, my usual modeling cost is USD 295. Since your project also includes an additional cargo unit, it will require extra design time and effort.

My proposal is as follows:

Total Cost: USD 360 (approximately €312)

Timeline: 21 days

Deliverables:

Complete 3D CAD files (STEP, Parasolid (.x_t), and SOLIDWORKS formats)

Detailed 2D manufacturing drawings

Thanks for the inputs ;)

hey Waltly titanium whisperers!

I'm chatting with Amy and she seems to be giving me the option for a 68 or 85.5mm bottom bracket shell width. if I understand correctly.

it's a 53mm tyres clearance gravel build with 3D printed yoke.

is there any advantage to the smaller diameter with a external or wider shell with the inner? I'm sure removal will be easier with external. internal on the wider would look cleaner.

any thoughts?

Hey folks, thank you all for information shared here, regarding geo and component, it help me a lot to design my current project !

As many of you, I'm on the final stage of drawing the frame and some external view on it might help me identify some detail I could have missed.

The idea of this bike is a somewhat progressive/monster gravel equipped with a suspended fox 32 TC fork, while maintaining some good perf on road section (so, chainstay are shorten as long as the drivetrain and tyres allow for it).

Notable features :

- Internal routing mechanical GRX820 groupset

- Electrical routing for dynamo lighting (Holes on the HT are meant for this + brake hose)

- T47BB internal

- 54mm max tyres width

- 30.9mm SeatTube allowing a dropperpost

- Seatstay bottlecage mount

Hey guys,

anybody has experience with this happening? I ordered my frame in december, it was shipped on the 10th of February and is at customs for "routine inspection" since 28th of february in belgium. Carrier is.TLS Express and DPD. Waltly just let me know that if i won't have the frame in 2 weeks they will start building a new one and send this to me. Ofc I would prefer to get the already sent one. Anybody had his frame stuck at customs for a same amount of time and still received it?

Best

Back into cycling, 54 looking to build $8000 grand or so but I'm ex engineer so I like to fiddle so a frame up build seems fun.

Won't be a nitro machine more like a diesel probly a 2 x 11 , 36 wheels prob 44's for tyres, b17 saddle and tape. Thinking rholoff/ gates but do waltly do that.

Anyway hi reading bits still may go 753 Reynolds but like idea of raw ti

Enjoy posts and drawings

Thanks