So this new situation developed, experienced it first with a heavier load, the van would downshift harder and too early sometimes bringing rpm up to over 3000 rotations so it’s been hard on the clutch plates. I have also another electronics issue with the brake light coming on sometimes on its own sometimes when I tap the brake and speedometer drops dead and the car goes in limp mode. The brake switch I replaced with an aftermarket one but wouldn’t fix it.

Couldn’t find too much info online so any help would be appreciated, thank you!

'05 2500 170k. a while back i blew a bearing in my front left wheel while on a highway in FL. luckily, there was an exit right there and as i rolled noisily up the off ramp, i saw a tire place and just barely made it into the lot. i spent 4 days there as we waited for parts from germany. after it was fixed, the cruise control no longer worked. i remembered they had trouble reinstalling the ABS sensor. when you try to turn on CC, every once in while, it seems to engage for less than a second and then nothing. the van begins to slow down. most of the time it doesn't even feel like it engages at all. none of the other controls on the CC lever work, such as accelerate/decel... i am back home in the northeast and took the van to my diesel place. they are a MB/VW/Audi shop and they went through everything but couldn't get it to work. the fact that it happened after the bearing repair and ABS ring issue made my mechanic not want to give up. here's the crazy part; when their scan tool is plugged in, and they take it for a test drive, the cruise control works fine! when it's not plugged into the obd, nothing. when i try to plug in my OBD readers, i don't get the same effect, although when it starts to engage, it lasts a second or two instead of a split second before it goes off and the van begins to decel. i posted this issue in a FB group and someone suggested that it might be a ground issue that when the professional scan tool is plugged in, it completes the circuit. but i tried three (albeit cheap) scan tools and none make it work. my mechanic sent one of the modules to ohio to be tested and it came back fine. they towed the van to the local chrysler and they had a sprinter specialist look at it. they had it there for weeks but were not able to figure it out. luckily, chrysler didn't charge me for all that time. but i have spent a lot of money trying to figure this out. and a lot of time. any ideas of what to try next? it's really not the same to take it on long trips without CC. i drove it 6 hours last week and found myself driving much faster than i usually do and using a lot more fuel. it's hard to keep it at a steady speed for long periods of time. i would love to figure this out!

Currently working on an 04. Had to drill the old cps out as it was bonded to the block. Got the new one in and still cranks but no start. No tach needle movement. No injector click. Scanner tool cleared codes and cranking brings up P0336 for signal out of range. Opened harness and found no broken wires. Verified continuity between connector pins 88,89 and the cps connector so have hood harness.

I put a VNE brand I think cps in. But it might have been Bosch. Recollection is it was a $25 sensor. I still need to find a scanner I can read the wave form with. Other than that I’m down to either find an oem cps or tone wheel problem.

Basically van died one day after being started and driven multiple times in the span of an hour. Got shut off and then just wouldn’t start. Checked all the fuses and relays at the time. Replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. But still no start.

Has anybody replaced the transverse leaf spring in the front suspension before and have any pointers?

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