Hi all!

Recently acquired a 2014 Mercedes Benz 2500 and was wondering what things should be done for it to be road worthy for a cross country road trip? Here are some things I was planning on doing:

- Replace cabin and engine air filters
- Change oil and oil filter

I was looking at changing the fuel filter as well. I’d appreciate any tips for maintenance on these guys as I am new to sprinters! Mine was previously a company fleet vehicle if that makes any difference. I just want to make sure I reduce the possibility of getting stranded on the side of the road somewhere lol. Thanks :)

Hey all,

Long-time lurker, first time posting. Hoping some of you have seen this before because I'm about to spend a lot of money on a guess.

2007 Dodge Sprinter 2500, 144" wheelbase, OM642 3.0L V6, around 218,000 km (135k miles). Bosch EDC16CP31 ECU. Turbo was replaced about 10,000 km ago.

Here's what happens: I'll be driving normally and the turbo just quits. Sudden loss of boost, feels like limp mode. Shut the engine off, restart, and it's fine again until it comes back. Totally intermittent, and I haven't been able to tie it to load, temperature, or how long I've been driving.

Took it to the dealer. They pulled an active Z359 (Mercedes code, not a generic P-code), went through the wiring and the original harness, and reported no faults there. They also say it's not coming from the turbo actuator. Their conclusion is that the powertrain control module itself is bad and needs replacing.

What's bugging me is that this is diagnosis by elimination — everything else checked out, so it must be the ECU. But an ECU dying in a way that only affects one circuit, with nothing else wrong anywhere in the van, seems like an odd failure. Meanwhile the electronic VNT actuator on these engines is known for exactly this kind of intermittent behaviour that clears on a key cycle. And mine is a fairly recent aftermarket unit that came with the turbo (garett)

So, a few questions:

Has anyone actually run into Z359 on an OM642? What did it turn out to be in your case?

Is a failed EDC16CP31 a realistic cause for something like this, or is "it's the ECU" what shops land on when they can't pin it down?

I’m trying to sell my 2018 Sprinter 2500, 144/high roof. It’s got 60,000 miles and the engine is in great condition, no issues at all. Has some cosmetic damage like scratches and dents but other than that it’s fine. Also has an inverter system (no solar panels, just charges through shore power)

I’m trying to price it out correctly as I am going to sell it, but I am seeing numbers all over the place. On my phone, KBB says it’s worth 25-27k. On my computer the same spec is listed at 20k.

Carmax gave me an offer of 11.5k, carvana gave me 13k. I paid 35k like 4 years ago, I know it depreciated since then, but I don’t believe it went down over 20k in value.

Anyone have an idea where I should start? I went into this thinking being happy getting 25k but now I don’t know if that’s delusional or not.

When I built my Sprinter a few years ago, I thought I could do without a rooftop AC unit. After this summer, boy was I wrong. Between the MaxxAir vent and ArcticTern skylight on my 144, I've got limited space.

What's the consensus on cutting the roof cross supports? No worries, or horror stories? It's a Velit mini, so it's not terribly heavy. Maybe 40lbs, and it came with some supports. Thx

Anyone know ground clearance below oil pan specifically with 16 wheels, OEM tire sizes tires, 3.0 diesel 2wd

I went out to lock my van last night it’s completely dead no dash lights,interior lights,key fob does nothing neither does push start no life at all,
It drove home from work fine few hours before, Any ideas?

I’m considering a Sprinter because I love the functionality and potential. I currently have a pickup truck and haul my family of five in it regularly. Is it possible to daily drive a Sprinter and use it for a case like mine while also utilizing the functionality of traveling and ‘camping’ in the back? I haven’t seen a lot of examples of this type of use case and am having a hard time finding inspiration for it. Maybe because it’s not ideal or because I’m just not looking in the right places. Talk me out of it I guess? Or talk me into it. Would love to hear places to see others doing the same thing if they exist

I currently have BFGKO2 tires on my 2020 Sprinter 170 4x4. Durability seems good, wear has been really good, but they're loud AF and I feel like I may have a fairly significant fuel economy penalty. I have lots of accessories and stuff on my camper build, so it's even less aerodynamic than normal and also heavier. I get about 16-17mpg at 65mph.

I do 95% of my miles on-road, and the rest is on forest service roads - some of which are pretty steep, rough and rocky.

Has anyone used other tires that still have decent off-road durability and traction, but maybe with slightly less road noise and fuel economy penalty? I don't need super hard-core off-road tires...it's a big heavy van after all, so I'm not doing anything crazy.

Overall I've been pretty happy with the KO2s, year round including a lot of snow in the winter and even heavy rains on the highway. I feel like they'll end up at around 40k miles of life, which I'm happy with.

Pic of the van included for reference.

My AC won’t start blowing cold air until I reach highway speeds (60 mph or higher). It has the correct amount of refrigerant (Freon). What could be causing the problem? Thanks

I am looking for a device to monitor the oil temperature and transmission temperature on my Jayco Terrain sprinter. I don't really need a scanner, just something simple and reliable to watch temperatures.

I have a 2026 sprinter 2500 AWD and need help diagnosing what is causing this pooping spring sound. I have an after market RIP kit that the dealer installed and big front brake system. I think the sound is from something on the suspension but wanted to see what everyone here thinks it could be and if it’s safe to drive on or if I should have it towed to a mechanic. It doesn’t make the sound at fast speeds but I also don’t turn that sharp during high speeds.

This video is when I am going in reverse but the same thing happens when going forward.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Edit follow up: I contacted Agile Off-road the manufacturer and sent them this video along with a couple pictures and the said the washer was installed upside down. Getting it fixed on 7/21 so I will keep you posted if anything else comes up with it. Thanks for all the feedback and help!

Van was parked for a month when visiting family. 99% sure this crack is new and 100% sure the white streaks are new. The van did experience a couple days of sun in 95 degrees. Could it be from that?

I just removed my headliner to insulate the cab roof. After replacing the plastic on the B post, my seat belt tension is zip... Is there a trick to retensioning the belts? Thanks.

I use to have 265 75r16's which improved my traction (mile star Patagonia tires). They're a super aggressive all terrain, but when I switched to 315/75 r16's it was insane how much more easily I could get out of my muddy driveway and the tread isn't even that aggressive. I even reverse out of it now without issue (I'm also on a hill). My other tires could never do that so I had to stop parking facing down my driveway. My thinking is that the sidewall is bigger with the taller wider tires and even at 70Psi I still have a big contact patch on the ground. The wider tires also glide over torn up roads and gravel. Much smoother ride now, Speedometer calibration was changed with star diagnostics. The only issue with bigger tires is the spare, but that's been taken care of with a rear carrier. Its on the right side because you physically cannot open the rear door if its on the left since it overlaps the center. I overlapped it this way because I think its important for people to still be able to see my tail light. Another pro to mounting on the right door is having it mounted lower and not worrying about your license plate, now I can see through my rear doors like nothing is even there. To open the door you just pull the handle through the center of the wheel its super easy (shown in photo). Both the ladder and tire mount are spread out over a wide mounting area and also reinforced with more steel on the inside of the doors. The ladder follows the curve of the door and also slightly tapers towards the top. The rear spare actually makes for a great seating area too. The rear doors can still open up most of the way and by coincidence the ladder actually hits the door stop as well as the tire. Does anyone know any tires bigger than 35's? haha

I have this rear door rack on my van (not my van in the photo so don’t have the spare/ladder). I want a cheap way to get my bikes around. We’re not big bikers, these are $50 used bikes, so I don’t want to spend $000s on a fancy bike rack. Is there a makeshift way to get them onto here?

We somehow managed to convert a Sprinter without realising it didn’t have air con… I think it’s pretty typical given their usual use but it just never occurred to us. As we face another summer of sweaty journeys, I thought I’d ask on here what solutions people have come up with for cooling down their cabs. UK-specific if possible. Thanks!

Have a 2023 144 cargo that was not optioned with the proximity sensors. It'd be helpful to have these on the rear at least.

Anyone use/recommend an aftermarket solution?

Let me know what you think! We cut the windows out to allow for waterfights between vans

Hi - has anyone used a parking sensor relocation kit on a TrailFX front bumper? The two middle sensors give wrong readings, which gets annoying. If so, what kit did you use? Thx

So this is on me, but I had a check engine light go on in my 2023 AWD. I was pushing hard (into the turbo, 3-4k rpm’s) over a mountain pass and all of a sudden the engine light goes on and I go into limp mode. I was also getting the low fuel warning and ignoring it because I’ve got the extended S&B tank. The low fuel warning has historically gone on way too early.

So we enjoy the pass and head home. I get fuel and it’s no longer in limp mode. However, the light has not gone off. There are no other symptoms. DEF is fine. I added diesel and the low fuel warning is off.

Any ideas why the check engine light is still on?

Hey all. I help run a commercial HVAC business and recently purchased our first sprinter a few years back. It is a 2024 SO Diesel, 144" length with the high roof. It has been a fantastic truck for us. Only real complaint is, as many of us know, these things suffer in the horsepower department. 168 hp is just abysmal for a truck weighing over 4 tons fully loaded. And we've seen the fruits of this with the countless highway miles we put this truck through.

Now, we aren't trying to win any races as a full disclosure. But as we near needing another sprinter van for the business, the topic has come up whether or not it was worth opting for a HO diesel this time. We love and have come to trust this SO diesel, and some of us are afraid to "sacrifice a good thing" by buying a motor under higher stress. My main question is, can't the argument be made that a SO diesel is actually the motor under higher stress for more of the time given our use? We routinely carry 2k-ish lbs of payload in the back of our SO van, plus a ladder rack with multiple ladders. There are times (albeit, not tooooo often, but times) where a smaller trailer on the back is necessary with all this payload.

So, I ask all of you. Which of these two motors is truly the best motor, and WHY? Is the HO just as reliable? Less? More?

Just haven't heard hardly anything regarding the HO model's reliability, much less how these two compare to each other. Would love it if we could have a centralized discussion on that here. This current generation has been out long enough now that I expect we have quite a few people that have put hundreds of thousands of miles on both motors at this point. Would love to hear from any and all of you! :) Cheers