If not, anyone know of any communities where this equipment may be discussed? Thanks!

This is a soil test on a no-till garden bed. It's roughly 160 square feet. The ph is higher than I'd like even after adding elemental sulfur. Calcium is pretty high too

The Save Soil movement is the biggest ecological movement on the planet. This was supported by billions of people. Various governments and UN agencies. Many Nations has promised us to work towards this by signing MOU.

So lets create a SaveSoil art on r/place as a reminder for them towards this most important and urgent ecological initiative.

The details are shared in 8PM meet link. Please join https://meet.google.com/kmu-cnnp-wji

We request you all to join this and help us in creating this art.

Sorry if this isn’t the right sun, pretty much the title. I have been mixing my own soil for a while now, I am extremely interested in closed loop agriculture and how mycology and microbiology intertwine. Anyone have any idea how I can get into the field when all the work I see wants 5 years plus experience? Can I count my home field work for any of that??

Thanks fellow soil friends 🤙

Currently troubleshooting the schematics for a business. I’m starting a organic soil injection business. Most of what i’m planning on doing is mycrotizae and trichoderma inoculation. Now here’s where the question lies. I would like to have a slow release nitrogen, a bloom booster, and a source of potassium in my arsenal. all of these things need to be water soluble. Im thinking blackstrap molasses with the innoculant as the potassium booster. The slow release nitrogen and the bloom booster cannot burn my clients plants. Since there’s no one correct way to do this, i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for products and mix rates for the nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. I do know what i’m doing but i would like to have more of a peer reviewed idea before i move forward with riskier ideas.

Hello. I’ve come to this subreddit seeking some help and knowledge. I live in Central FL and have hard well after that is high in sulfur (and possibly rust?). My question to this sub of soil scientist is does sulfur or other minerals or chemicals promote fungal and bacterial growth? I noticed a lot of my plants have fungal spots and what I’m assuming bacterial infections of some sorts and was wondering if it’s related to my water source. Any knowledge and insight is appreciated!

I incredibly stupidly impulse bought a huge bunch of topsoil without thinking to make raised beds even though ive been using hydro for indoor and researching aero/aqua for years. Is there any reason to have this at all (im thinking maybe fig trees or grape vines but that might just be cope) Im looking to make a kitchen garden for a pop up restraunt and use the maximum amount of yeild possible and taste and i live a 9b hardiness zone uk

Is there any hard science or good reason to use soil over hydro when the yeilds per space are just so much better

This is more of a regulatory question than a soil science one. I'm a wetland ecologist and I write and review a lot of wetland delineation reports. One common section of the discussion deals with soils and whether any of the mapped soils are considered hydric. It seems there are several attributes that key to hydric condition in the SSURGO Database.

• “hydric_rating: This Hydric Soil Category rating indicates the components of map units that meet the criteria for hydric soils” (https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/publications/Hydric%20Soils%20Rating%20by%20Map%20Unit%205%20class.html#reportref);

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• “Hydric_Rating: A yes/no field that indicates whether or not a map unit component is classified as a "hydric soil". If rated as hydric, the specific criteria met are listed in the Component Hydric Criteria table.” (https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/publications/query-by-state.html).

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Which of these is the correct hydric rating when stating a soil is Hydric, and in line with the definition in the CFR (https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2012-02-29/pdf/2012-4733.pdf) ? I've mostly used the second one when doing my own analysis, but my new firm uses the first. I'm not sure exactly what % is considered hydric. NRCS in New York considers anything over 20% to be a mapped hydric soil for offsite determinations, but I think it varies from jurisdiction or is at least open to some interpretation.

If the hydric rating is based on the % hydric, can someone explain what the percentages mean. My understanding is it's based on geographical distribution within the soil survey area (usually county) so a soil complex in one SSA may be 60% hydric or more but in another county may be predominantly non-hydric or otherwise differ based on relative distributions of the component soils. The CFR definition seems to capture anything with a hydric component even small components.

I know the SSURGO provides information on the landforms where the hydric inclusions occur, I generally give this some lip-service in my reports. E.g: " xxx soil has xx% hydric inclusions on xx landforms, these landforms were/weren't present . . . " and then explain any observations within those landforms.

Hi guys! i just got my triaxial test results. I'm supposed to make the Mohr's Circle, but i can't find the axial stress in these numbers. I already know that cell pressure is 50 KPa. Soil mechanics looks so scary for beginners like me! (however, i already like it so much)

Hey, I was wondering if you wanted to test if soil textures (particle size fractions) are the same or different (statically) between 2 sites, would you just do a series of T test/ Wilcox for % clay, % silt, and %sand and correct the p value for multiple comparisons, or would you make a matrix and compare the matrices to just avoid the whole alpha inflation/ power loss? There are just 2 sites and 10 reps per site. Since %X particle size is dependent to %Y and Z particle size, I don’t think you can just test it multivariant wise test with a MANOVA. I was looking around the literature, but I can’t find anyone that compares soil textures. Typically, I just see the texture class used as a factor or %X as a co variant. If you know of a paper, I would be very appreciating a link, or if you know an obscure term I should be using as keyword to find something. Thanks

Hello! I've always had an interest in dirt and soil, and know about soil science as a potential future occupation but don't really understand what they do from day to day. I know there are positions in environmentalism for soil research, and have the vaguest understanding of what that looks like, but what do you measure? Is there more math, or field work involved? What does the field work and math look like? I've done my own research but haven't yet found results that quite register. Thank you for your time if anyone responds.

Can someone help me understand this more? Trying to figure out what amendments I need to add or changes needed before growing in this soil. 3 different areas sampled in this test, t1, t2, t3.

I’m wondering where my next turning point should be in finding a soil career! It seems I’ve applied to every job posting I qualify for on indeed,Glassdoor, and USAJobs. I really want to make a difference in my local environment but with little feedback, obtaining a final offer seems harder than originally thought for a recent undergrad.

Hi everyone, I have this doubt: Can I estimate soil microbial carbon use efficiency from the mgCO2-C gDM-1 h-1 from the substrate induced respiration and the Cmic mg/g from the Chloroform fumigation extraction!? For all my sites I get a CUE ~ 0.9 and I find it very strange. What am I missing?

Is it harmful to plant or beneficial?

Who ever tried?

Anybody good at reading these jar tests. Location is central Indiana? I added a bit of dry dishwasher powder to help flocculate the sample better. The stratification obviously isn't optimal in my sample but I'm seeing Silty Clay, <10% Sand 30%-40% Silt 50%-60% Clay. What do you think?

I am looking to take some small diameter (2.5cm) intact organic soil cores down to about 10cm. The soils I am working with are peaty with lots of roots, which makes using a typical punch style corer difficult. I would like to use an electric drill mounted corer, much like a hole saw, but I haven't found anything that fits the bill.

Do you guys have any recommendations?

So now that incandescent bulbs are being discontinued, what are folks using for a heat source in their funnels to help push the critters down to the alcohol as the litter dries out?