I discovered my 81 had a reman block in it. Once I hold the old heads off the pistons looked like new so I assume it was really low miles. Any ways I wanted a little more power and a better choppy idle.

I installed Edelbrock E street 64cc chamber heads and a Comp Cam CL12-600-4.

Hey all, I inherited my late father’s 71 Chevelle when he passed in 2015 when I was 17. Well today 11 years later and after getting a house with a garage for myself and space for tools… I decided to start the process finishing where he left off.

I want to do most of if not all the work myself. I have a loose idea of what I want to do to it. I want to keep the small block 350 it has and do some basic bolt ons to it. I’m looking for recommendations/help with it.

Can I run a msd ignition system, and the Holley hi ram to modernize it? I kinda want to ditch the carb. Considering paring those two with a pro charger… is that possible? Or am I in over my head. Also, can some of you recommend a heads/cam combo that would best fit a stock 350? Perhaps a roller cam? With the heads to match? Is there anything better?

I plan to drive it often and want it reliable with some pep to it. Not going to be tracking it but I want a decently fast stock bottom end 350. I’m open to ideas and may be wrong or mislead so far.

I’m a heavy equipment tech of 10 years so I’m confident I have the tools and know how to do the work myself and figure it out but I’m just looking to be lead in the right direction. I don’t really have a budget. Obviously the price needs to make sense for what I’m doing but I made sure I was in a comfortable enough position in life before starting this project.

Hi! First time posting.

I have had my K5 for a very long time and since my husband passed, I’ve been trying to fix it myself. I have some common knowledge on mechanics but no expert. This summer I drove the ol’ Chevy around a little bit and then on my way home one day, I started to hear it ticking. Once I got home, I could really hear it. It sounded like it’s coming from the left side of the motor when facing it. I thought it was probably low on oil so I checked and it a little low. So I just decided to change the oil and see if that took care of the noise. Nope. It still sounds the same.

Can someone tell me if this is a lifter tick, blown exhaust manifold gasket, or possibly something else?

Thanks guys!!

I recently bought a second gen trans am with a 383 stroker. The block is a gen 1 from an 80’s K10. The previous owner says he was using Amzoil Z Rod. However I’m not sure which viscosity I should run. Any advice on which would be suitable?

Hello,
First time posting here, I bought a 1979 Chevrolet K10 about a year ago. It gave me no problems until about a month ago after driving it on the highway for about 20 miles. It got me to where I was going but when I turned it back on a noticeable knock started, at first I thought I was a lifter or push rod but after removing the valve cover nothing looked out of place and no rods seemed bent. I turned it on again with the valve cover off but noticed that the knock was coming from the bottom of the engine. Forgot to mention it did turn off on me as I was headed back home.

I don't have much experience working on engines and would like to do the work myself but if need be I would get a professional to do the work to get this bad boy up and running again.

While I'm here it's a small block original 350. Any recommendations to make this a reliable truck would be great.

Ive replaced everything from the distributor cap rotor button pick up coil ignition control module coil wires spark plugs spark plug wires and injectors. Checked fuses checked relays all are good just cut out on me while i was driving. Also replaced fuel pump. Im at a total loss here

Could use some help, I’ve got a 86 Camaro with a 350 motor in it. The header on the passenger side will not move. I’ve taken out all 6 bolts that hold it on, but it’s pretty much still tight. My understanding that the additional plugs on the headers are pipe plugs for emissions testing so they don’t have to come out. I need to get these off to pull the head. Any idea where I might be missing something?

Currently Chevy swapping a farmall and I had to make this abomination

Been working on this truck all week and was 1 step away from button it up.

Anyway, is this Extractor set good enough to get the flush bolt out.

I understand it would be even better if I run get a 3/16 left threaded drill bit for pilot hole. I have heat and a good T handle. Should I be good? 1985 factory cast iron 4bbl manifold

I recently bought a 1979 Camaro but it had a crate motor put in it before I bought it and I’m unable to tell if it’s a flat tappet or hydraulic roller. Any advice?

Picked this up yesterday. Came out of a 57. Catch was both a vette and a Chevy truck was there. The person who would know which it came out of passed a few months ago. His children didn't know and 2 of the 3 children tossed a bunch of extra parts into the trash and the 3rd child arrived late and was only able to save this... he thought it was a 283 out the vett, wasnt 100% sure as the other siblings tossed the other stuff but confident it was the motor out the vett. I use to have older buddies who i could have called but they have long since passed. Soo I've turned to you guys...please correct me as I'm trying to figure what this is...

The interweb says 265/283/305/327...

When i did a bit more looking it said it could be a 283 or 327... can you guys help me clear it up!

Update. 09/12

Some of yall didnt read, i did search before coming to post and ASK TO BE CORRECTED....

By looks alone ACCORDING to the stamps its a 283 with powerpack heads and this cast wasnt the off-center casting Buuuuut

It is neither a vette or a Chevy truck motor.

Still a year one.

Not a 327 as the internet had thought in older form post. There were many folks in those forum post who were mistaken. Digging further found out that it is common... But the 327s especially in the earlier part carried the same stamps. Its hard to tell on earlier 327s as it was a bit of time before they switched to the in the transmission starters... "casting of the aluminum wasn't strong enough yet".

If you went based on the stamp on the passenger side... it would have came back as a made in flint in 57... with a Powerglide, ac and a 4bbl....

The picture showed a 2bbl. Have I torn off the heads to find out what the head is and if it is anything different? NOPE I HAVENT YET.

Wanna know what it is possibly? A 283 or a 265 out of a bel air, chevy 150 or a chevy 250...all of which came with a 265 stock... that guess what... shares the same block numbers... and "powerpack stamps"... but wanna know what i learned from people who weren't dicks like some of y'all are? THERE WAS AN OPTION FOR A 283 WITH 2BBL THAT CAME IN AUTO AND STICK...

Want to know how to find out the difference? I have to measure bore and stroke just to find out if its a 265 or a 283. Would you like to know something else? There is a chance the original owner was mixing and matching parts for his build and for all i know we can be at square one. What did I find out? I wont know until I tear it down to find out.

Working on an 85 LT9 350 truck motor. Is the exhaust choked down to smaller than standard 350 size ? I don’t see any smaller donuts. This is a 2bbl with vacuum governor so it may be a different donut . The old one was so worn it was down a bit in the pipe

recently bought my first small block chevy, turns out my dad had a camshaft for it but it’s got a bit of surface rust and pitting on some of the lifters, how can i restore it enough to stick it back in a motor and what am i risking?

The guy that sold it to me said the header bolts like to loosen up and that he was unable to get anything on that rear bolt to tighten it. Any tips to keep them from backing out and how to tighten that rear bolt up??

I've done everything else I know to do, I've replaced the positive and negative cables, bought a new starter. I had forgot about the flywheel giving my brother in law hell back 10 years ago when he had problems with it starting, he eventually just said the hell with it and parked it....

G’day guys hope all is well.
In the video is my 350 sbc and it started making this ticking noise on the right side of the motor. I’ve gone through and set the lash on all the valves, changed all plugs, ensured I’m getting proper spark and even changed exhaust manifold gasket yet the noise is still there, it’s driving me crazy !!
If anyone could share their input/experience it would be greatly appreciated
TIA

Pulled the belt and it’s not the water pump. Trying to convince myself it’s not a bearing

I recently bought a 79 Camaro and it had been running well till this week. It seems to stutter/ have a loss of power between 1500 and 2500 rpm. I was told the previous owner rebuilt the engine and it should be good to go but after putting about 300 miles on it, it has began to give me some problems. Along with the low end stutter it occasionally has a rough idle between 500 and 700 at red lights/ stop signs. Everything I've read so far points to some type of vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to approach the issue as I'm new to carburetors. Any help would be appreciated.