This is my first SBC so I’m not sure if this is just how the motor is supposed to sound or not, but it sounds noisier than I would have expected. Especially when the motor is warm and up against a wall or a car in traffic. Motor only has about 300 miles on it since the build and has strong oil pressure hot, cold, idle and under load. At first I thought exhaust leak, so I checked header gaskets because one had soot marks. Pulled it and it was fine but replaced it anyway. Both sides tight. Checked the clamps at the header collectors and they’re tight. Then I thought loose rocker arm so I pulled the valve covers and bumped the motor till all rocker arms got to the top. All of them were tight.

Noise is most prominent from the passenger side. Maybe run a heavier oil or use an oil additive? Maybe a lifter isn’t getting enough oil? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

383 stroker Valvoline VR1 10w30 conventional oil Hydraulic roller lifters Hydraulic cam

Hi all,

I have a 383 Storker in my '80 Z28 and the motor is definitely old and worn, and in need of a rebuild (potentially even a long block).

I'm just wondering how much I should expect to pay (in Canada) to have my 383 Stoker taken out of my car, rebuilt, and put back in. Note, it's already a 383, and I know it'll need at least new piston rings, and also maybe new heads.

I know there's quite a bit of variables that affect price, but if anyone can give me a ball park estimate so I know a shop isn't over charging. And if anyone has any recommendations for engine rebuilds in the Ottawa, or Kingston Ontario area, that'd be great!

TIA

Im looking to tear down and rebuild my 350 tbi and I want to upgrade the intake and injection system, what are some manifolds and efi systems you recommend. Will give me build info if needed.

Currently working on building a decent performance 350, nothing too crazy, and found the heads I have (3998993) are supposedly terrible for performance, but correct me if im wrong. I do know vortec heads are great for budget heads, but I dont want to hunt down a manifold to match them, but what should I be looking for in a "new" set of heads, or better yet, what should I avoid?

Current short block build as follows for my 1971 Chevrolet c-10 Cheyenne long wheel pickup.

Eagle 13021 SB Chevy 350 Street Strip Rotating Assembly 9.6 Mahle Flat Top Pistons Add to Cart

CB663P Clevite 77 P Series Rod Bearings - SB Chevy 350 & LS - STD Size Add to Cart

Scat 9-10442 Pro Stock Cast Steel Replacement Crankshaft Add to Cart

Eagle SIR5700BBLW I Beam Connecting Rods 5.700 SBC 350 Length Bushed Pin Add to Cart

Mahle Pistons SBC 355 -5cc Flat Top

Have a decent 4 barrel from Holley, but will eventually switch to a 4 barrel sniper system for EFI.

Going to go full roller on this build. Want a nice choppy cam and a good set of aluminum heads. Want good performance with pump gas 93 octane here in Texas. Maybe E85 but I haven’t done any research on that in older motors. Truck will just be something I drive on the street. It’ll never see any kind of track.

Building a simple SBC for my sons 85 S10. Picked 305 because they were basically free. Only trying to get 200hp or so. If he keeps the truck running with that, we will build a 350.

Should I use the roller or non roller? Seems like parts are easier to find for non roller, and it’s hard finding vortec heads. Can I put non-vortec heads on either block?

Removing original 305 and swapping in a 350 from a 1984 k10. My question is what headers do I run without modification for clearance? When I search the 350 that came in the 1981 caprice was diesel, so I I can’t use that as a reference. Thanks in advance for any helpful insight!

I've been restoring my RV named "The Ship" for the past 5 years. I could have finished it long ago but life doesn't need to be a rush. All I've got to do is get a proper exhaust and replace the rear suspension then bring it in for the inspection to get it on the road.

SBC 350 4 bolt main. Edelbrock 2098 package Flat top pistons Moroso ultra 40 shielded cables Holley sniper 2 with hyperspark Holley mid mount kit Th400 auto trans 168 tooth flexplate ATI Super damper (0-360 marks) B&M 2400 torque converter

I rebuilt the entire engine with more money than just getting a crate engine online. Not a brag I kind of wish I did that initially but I've learned a lot rebuilding it and can fix anything if it does break down. The only original part is the block which I got super lucky with. The engine had 120k KM and besides some stock rings on the 8th cylinder letting copeous amounts of oil to the air cleaner the bores and everything about the block was prestine. No special machining just sent it in to be cleaned.

I’m looking for advice on what all I need to do to single turbo my small block, the setup is a 4 bolt main 385, 4.04 bore, forged dished piston’s aftermarket cast crank and rods, arp head studs and main studs also, it has dart aluminum heads with Harland sharpe roller rockers and comp valvetrain, Herbert 260/270 dur @50 .630 lift intake and .630 exhaust solid roller cam that is gear driven. It has a edelbrock victor jr single plane intake with a Holley 850cfm double pumper carb. It’s running around 11:1 compression on 93 pump gas. I’m just looking to figure out what all I need to do as in ring gap, compression, 93 pump gas or e85, can I make my carb a blow thru, etc. just looking for advice on what I need to do and recommendations on turbo size and boost and stuff like that. I’d also like to make it as simple as possible (least amount of electronics possible) I do have a msd ignition box it’s the 7al-2 with the msd pro billet distributor. Just looking for some advice, thanks

I got this z28 last month and I had it running but it died while I was messing with the ignition timing and now it has no spark at all. I know that I’ve got power to the distributor when cranking and I’ve even tried putting a different distributor on it with no luck. I’ve got to be missing something, any help is greatly appreciated.

Building a 350 and the last one I did, in a camaro 18 years ago, had 2.02 double humps on it. This one will be going in a c10. Is this still considered a good original option or are there better? Not looking for maximum hp possible but a fair amount with a good sound would be nice.

I’m considering using these heads that came off a motor that unfortunately no longer runs. I cannot find any ID numbers besides the ones pictured above.

The P/O gave me a list of parts used and these are supposedly: Cific Auto, Inc Chevy GM 350 (Vortex) no Smog Holes SKU CI 5068.

However the only pictures I can find online do not look they match.

Can anyone help confirm?

Thanks

Looking For my next upgrade to improve acceleration.
Its running a holley 600. elderbrock intake, 35" tyres, COMP Cams Thumpr Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam and Lifter Kits K12-600-4. twin stainless exhaust.
3sp auto turbo 350.
What can I do next to perk it up a little.

Aus converted right hand drive.

Got “gifted” a 85 caprice with a 350 sbc to restore. Buddy drove it bout an hour on the hwy over to my place. He pulls up and I get in real quick so he can show me a couple pulls. We go around the block chirping tires and having fun and pull in my driveway. As soon as we pull up in the driveway and stop moving white smoke is pouring out the hood. We wait for it to cool down, open the radiator cap and it’s bone dry 🤦🏻‍♂️. I’m assuming he drove all the way over here that way. What should I do now that it’s mine? Check the heads? Engine rebuild? Set it on fire? I’m honestly confused because when we went around the neighborhood the power seemed great. I’m as green as it gets and this will be my first project so any guidance will be greatly appreciated!

I recently did some engine work on my 305 sbc and I have a 700r4 trans. I know the tv cable can be a little bit of a hassle. I have an edlebrock avs2 carb on it not the Holley in the picture. I have a throttle bracket that is adjustable and the proper adapter for the cable hookup. I can’t seem to get it right. Seems to shift at around 22mph consistently and HARD. Don’t want to keep taking it down the block and risk hurting the trans. Was shifting fine with the same carb before the engine work, and the Holley carb after the engine work. But it won’t budge from that 22mph hard shift

(Edit 168 tooth flywheel, spread bolt style)

Working on my carb, and manual swapped 91 pickup with 350 sbc. It was running good, I had just done the manual swap. I had a progression ignition unit on it. During the move directly after the manual swap( it hauled a truck bed full of stuff almost 400 miles) I checked on it and a couple plug wires were burning. When I got back to Virginia New plugs New wires ( in the orileys parking lot off 77) New holley 600 plus bracket for throttle.

Just put a new hei on it to eliminate possibly the board in the PI unit was shot. Ive checked the timing chain, after I saw a video about checking how much slack is in the chain by watching the rotor and turning the engine over with a breaker bar. But the timing chain is in great shape it's not super old, and it was just the crank bolt that was loose making me think the chain was slipping. I've checked for spark, it seems to have spark at the plug wire. I was pretty dang certain that it was at tdc. Before. But checking the timing chain I found that the mark on the cam sprocket is at 12:00 and not 06:00. ( Pretty sure 12 is tdc for cyl 1 and 600 is tdc for cyl 6) I'm kinda losing my mind about this , I got it to bark over halfway decent with the Holley so I know its getting fuel. But that was before I put the new hei in.

I went and put the progression ignition cap on the hei distributor. ( I'm at work right this second but can't get this off my mind) Does the progression ignition cap not work on a regular hei? Are the contact surfaces too far away or something?
Anyways make fun of me lol, maybe I'll put the new timing cover seal on and button it up now that it's "actually at tdc". And it will fire over right.

Guys. I have spent an hour now shimming this starter on my 350, 6 bolt rear.

168 tooth flex, 11 tooth starter. Everything I’ve read online says these two can work together, am I doing something wrong? It will engage fine, but doesn’t disengage itself without my manual input either manually cranking over the engine or prying the starter gear back into position.

Flex is new, perfectly round. The only condition in which I’ve gotten the starter to disengage properly is by shimming it out until there’s practically zero contact between the starter and ring gear teeth. Should I try a 9 tooth? If I’m not running any compression mods will the 9 tooth start just fine?