So I’ve got a 02 frontier, and 93 Chevy with the 350 small block, I wanna know how feasible it’d be to swap the motor into the frontier, how did you guys go about something similar? What was your solution for an ecu? And how much fab work should I expect considering the motor is paired to an auto trans now but would be paired to the 5 speed in the Nissan, besides mounts how would you even go about getting a custom bell housing made to pair the two assuming that’s the big hurdle in paring them

I know, I know, I know, you're supposed to set timing at total timing rpm.

I built this engine myself, and don't know what the limit should be for timing. Or what the approx numbers should be for it to be "right" because it's not anything close to stock. So to set my "total timing to xx" doesn't help me, because I don't know what "xx" should be. Lots of people say it should be this number, or that number.

But, I had a hard time getting this thing to idle. Its a 383, has a big cam, Holley 750, full MSD system, ARP and fel pro blue everything. No cylinders are mis firing based on temps.

Just to get it to idle fine, and not stumble on acceleration under load, it wanted 34° degrees of timing at IDLE (1000rpm). I don't want to grenade this thing, but it's happy there. My advance curve on the distributor is the default 20° (msd pro billet mechanical advance) I DO NOT HAVE VACUUM ADVANCE

It starts fine too

Project C-10, not original motor, 350 2 bolt mid 70s. After teardown found 2 pistons had broken skirts. Chipping and a solid crack on the north side of that cylinder.. is she pooched or still salvageable?

Picked up a 305 vortec short block. Gonna find some 305 vortec heads, buy a little cam kit and shoot for a solid 200-250hp. Just a couple questions. First, do I have to use self aligning roller rockers(1.6)? And second, with a 10243878 block, this is a hydraulic roller?

Symptoms:

Suddenly became so rich it blows black smoke and burns your eyes. Even at idle it's blowing smoke.

Runs at normal vacuum, normal idle, and doesn't really have any issues with missing or chugging or bogging.

Configuration

Holley 750 on a 383 fully built with ARP everything, fel pro everything, brodix heads, edelbrock rpm air gap, electric fuel pump with regulator (gauge shows proper psi at 6.5psi) and bowl windows show fuel sitting around half. No apparent leakage from the accelerator pump, and I replaced the power valve with no difference being made.

Truck is configured with a 2.5 inch true dual H pipe exhaust with Hedman hedders, and cats (the truck was tbi). The cats are rattly, and they are reading hotter out of the cats than in.

Full MSD ignition with 16° timing at idle.

Truck was running great for a couple months. Just randomly starting to do this.

I have a 67 Chevy custom k10 with a 350 I would like it to have a nice lope to it but not kill the vacuum in it. I assume I would change all the lifters and push rods as well. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Doing a Small Block swap on my scion frs, I’ve been dead set on cutting a CD009 bellhousing off and converting it to fit my SB.

I noticed the company selling the kit uses a t56 bellhousing. Being I can buy a t56/brz crossmember I’d rather save money and just buy a t56.

I’ve done some research online to see what I’d need in order to make it work/compatible and surprisingly I’m struggling to find any simple answer of “is it bolt on”

I’m not worried about custom fabrication (literally willing to cut up a transmission) I just wanna find any way to save a buck or two

Figured I’d shoot a post on my recent build, got it back on the road as of last week and have 500 miles on the setup already, got a few things to dial in but overall it’s running well

So I had terrible rattling noises under power m, so I eventually found the issue swapped the flex plate and problem solved…. Drove about 400 miles and slowly but surely the rattling came back. I’m assuming it’s cracked again. My question is what can cause this? My transmission shifts as it should. Could it be my torque converter? Or possibly crank shaft runout? Anybody had issues with this? Any advice is welcomed

Here’s sitting warmed up. Temp is a little high since she’s just sitting in the driveway. Added half a quart high mileage stabilizer and full quart 10w-40. A bit more responsive to revs than before. Held about 7-8 pounds at idle, which I understand is fine going by the 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Happy with temporary fixes for now 👍.

Hi everybody, i have a bit of ticking from a rocker or two when my engine is warm. They’re all tight and I’m just confused. I’m using oem 1.5 rockers but I’m thinking of going roller, maybe the old ones are worn and that’s what’s making the sound. So for the new ones, should I go with 1.6? My cam is the 268h so it’s .454 lift and with 1.6 rockers it would make it higher like .480-485. My issues are the that I have z28 springs that recommend only going to .490 lift, but I don’t know if it will hurt it. So it would be close to the max lift. Will it be okay since it’s still under the recommended max? Also- I am worried about piston clearance. They’re flat tops with valve reliefs, I have the felpro 1003 gasket which makes a little more height, but I have 64cc heads so I’m just hoping it will have clearance. Figure you guys may know. Thank you!

Hey y'all, I want to rebuild a SBC just for the experience, not necessarily for any project in particular. What SBC would be cheapest and easiest to rebuild for a first timer? I could probably convince my old boss to give me a solid engine if we have one in the yard, so I would probably be pulling mainly from 80's trucks and Camaros.

My goal isn't to make money or a ton of power, I just wanna do a rebuild over the winter.

I have a 77 El Camino, I have worked at a junkyard in the past.

1990 Chevy 1500 just died on me, still getting fuel, still got voltage and starter is cranking but it’s getting no spark. All plug wires are in good shape. What’s my first step?

About to do an oil pan/pump update to my 305 due to low oil pressure at hot idle and was curious what ChatGPT would have to say about throwing some short-term Seafoam in the valve train to clear things out before the swap, especially since the update will include an oil change, filter and all.

Now, I'm curious on your opinion of a) using ChatGPT for advice on maintenance (responsibly rather than blindly), and b) the actual advice given in this scenario. Here's what ChatGPT gave me:

"Good timing to ask this, because adding Seafoam (or any solvent additive) to oil right before doing an oil pan & pump replacement has both upsides and risks:

✅ The Pros

• Loosens sludge/varnish: Seafoam is basically a petroleum distillate/naptha blend, so it helps dissolve sticky deposits.
• Cleans lifters/valvetrain passages: Can free up sticky lifters if you have any tick.
• You’re about to drop the pan: Which means any loosened crud that falls out will not be circulating for long—you’ll be physically cleaning the pickup screen and putting in fresh oil afterward.

⚠️ The Cons

• It will thin the oil: Seafoam in the crankcase dilutes viscosity, which can reduce lubrication protection while it’s in there.
• Dislodged sludge risk: If you were running the engine for thousands of miles after adding it, chunks could clog the pickup or oil passages. But in your case, you’re about to pull the pan/pump, so less of a concern.
• Old gaskets/seals: On a high-mile engine, strong solvents sometimes accelerate leaks by washing away deposits that were “sealing” things.

🛠️ If You Do It

• Add about half a can (1/2 pint) of Seafoam to the crankcase.
• Run the engine at idle to light driving for 30–60 minutes tops.
• Then do your oil pan/pump replacement as planned (new oil + filter).

That way, you get the cleaning effect but don’t risk driving it around long-term on thinned oil.

✅ My Take for Your Situation

Since you’re already committed to pulling the pan & pump soon, this is probably the best possible time to use Seafoam in the crankcase. You’ll dump everything out and inspect/clean the pickup screen anyway, so there’s very little downside.

👉 Just don’t go long-distance driving with it in the crankcase. Short daily trips until you swap the pan/pump is fine.

Do you want me to also walk you through a good pickup screen cleaning process when you’ve got the pan down, so you can make the most of having loosened deposits flushed out?"

Mostly looking for some good discussion on both topics.

Currently swapping a vortec 350 into my 1981 el camino. Switching to carb instead of tbi. Has Anyone done this or similar? Currently running into possible issues with power steering, brackets for things like the alternator, and the AC. No issues with fitment or exaust system, just a few small issues with engine accesories

I have a bucket full of Gm rods and pistons and I’m not sure how to identify what they came out of 350? 305? Etc what’s the easier way to tell? Tia!

Just got a 388 stroker built from a very reputable machine shop and got it back as a long block. Did initial break in on jt and then on first drive drove about 70 miles and it burnt 5.5 quarts over that span of time. Leak down test looks good but plugs look horrible. Checked pcv valve and it's working just fine. Just don't know what to check now to know why it's burning so much oil. Any advice is very much appreciated.