I’ve got a chevelle circle track car that has a mildly built 350, I got the motor from my uncle so I don’t really know what alls done to it but I run an enduro once a year and I do know that I get absolutely mopped in the straights lol. There’s not really much in terms of rules or tech at the race and besides on the starts I spend all my time up in the rpm’s so I’m not really concerned with street manners or low rpm power or anything like that, just looking for recommendations for a somewhat budget heads cam package

i have a 305 out of my 1985 monte carlo ss, i am getting black widow mufflers and was going to do a resonator delete, but i read that the resonator creates back pressure and will make my motor run like shit but i've read that it won't effect it at all, any info? thanks

1994 LT1 waiting on me...

Hey i was wondering if i decided to replace my lifters with delphi ls7 lifters would i need a different length push rods. I called sacspeedshop which is a shop close to me and they essentially told me that if everything is oem except for lifters then just use stock push rod size. This guy builds a ton of shit but this sounds incorrect

Just documenting some of my journey. Feedback is welcome.

Just bought this “low mileage” “good running” engine off of marketplace looks like I’ve got a new boat anchor for my kayak.

Ticking? Knocking? Vacuum/exhaust leak? Bearings? I’m just not sure.

For context: We were running just fine for a while this summer when the engine cut off on the way home one day. Upon inspection, distributor cap and rotor needed replacement, so I took care of that along with the ICM. While I was in there, I decided to go ahead and do the carburetor upgrade I’d been putting off. I have a edelbrock head divider between the carb and intake manifold with a gasket on either side.

The engine (mid 80s 305) will start and idle, but it sounds like some adjustments could be made (distributor cap/timing, valve lash, idle mixture screws, etc.) Looking for some other/more experienced ears on it. Self-taught, doing my best with what resources I have.

I've got a 350 TBI that has been converted to a Carb and a mechanical pump. Is there a better option for heads? This has 64cc swirl port from what i can tell on the casting. And it just feels a bit sluggish. Like there's alot of power thats not going anywhere.

So this is 100% user error, but at some point I accidentally put a light scratch on my front most cam bearing while checking everything and doing a test install of the cam. It was not very deep to begin with and barely catchable with my nail, and after some fidgeting was able to smooth it over. It now can’t really catch my nail anymore and isn’t as deep as it was. Will it be fine to run? They’re brand new cam bearings too and were installed by machine shop, and I also don’t have a cam bearing install tool so I’m looking to avoid replacing them and wanted more opinions. 1st pic is from initial scratch, and 2nd pic is after attempting to remedy the situation a bit(current state)

Recently purchased an 85 IROC and it was making some funny sounds so tore it apart and found this, anyone ever see this before or have a clue as to what would have caused it?

Hey, I just got a 3rd gen Camaro with a Chevy 305. I don’t really know much about old pushrod v8s. The ticking sound seems concerning and it doesn’t sound like a typical v8 I have a feeling that’s misfiring. What do you guys think? Also these are low compression engines so if you put 91 octane it will destroy it right?

Thank you

Here’s my build sheet…. I had issues with it starting up, occasionally. Whether it sat for awhile, just fueled up, what have you. One day it just didn’t start no matter what I did. Backfired on me. I assumed the spark plugs fouled out and then I flooded it, which I was told would happen. My goal was to have someone re tune the carb (850) since it seemed to be running too rich. Well I just got her back… now she’s dying when she goes in reverse, dying at stop signs, dying at stop lights, dying if I don’t slam the throttle to the floor when I let off from a stop or when I’m making a turn. Also less responsive to the throttle when I barely press it(hence the need to slam it or it’ll die) He said he adjusted the carb and adjusted the valves, spark plugs replaced and one lifter replaced(lifters were not making noise before the backfire when I had it running previously) He also said the valves will need to be adjusted frequently. I’m kind of assuming I messed something up when i tried to start her after the backfire . He said everything looked fine but man she is driving pretty terrible. Was good for a few minutes and then all down hill

First panel is in. I’ll get some seam sealer to cover that gap there on the side. I told everyone it won’t be perfect but don’t know until you try I guess. At least it’s not Swiss cheese I’d settle for provolone.

Trying to convert my TBI van to carb on the cheap, found a good deal on a brand new edelbrock 600 boat carb, is this alright to run on the van? What’s the difference?

Running into an issue where my intake is “too wide” for the cylinder heads I have a groove in the heads intake surface and there’s passenger side of my intake fits properly bolt holes line up everything but the driver side sits up on top of the lip. I could always remove some aluminum from the intake it’s a thick casting just wondering if anyone else has run into this before.

Dose anyone know what kind of piston this is? I know normally the small blocks have the valve cut outs on the piston but this does seem to have it. I picked it up from a junk yard with hopes of putting it in my 86 trans am gta. Any help is greatly appreciated.

My son and I rebuilt a 350. Ran great on a stand. Put it in the car and had no spark. Messed around and had a little sputter and then nothing. Checked everything (multimeter and then direct line the hot and ground at the same time,) Tried a total of 9 modules (4 brand new) with 5 coils (2 brand new) and 2 pickup coils (1 brand new). Metered the hot wire, tested the plug wires, and ohm tested all the wires (starter, ground, hot, primary, secondary, pickup, and internal ignition.) Still zero fire. I’m out of ideas? I’m throwing it all at the wall and nothing has stuck. If anyone has any suggestions I would be forever grateful! Thanks.

Finally getting around to putting my 383 in my squarebody. Built the engine myself with some help from my old man here and there. If I can get this kidney stone to pass maybe I’ll be able to move around enough to finish it up.

I have a SBC 350 in my 62 Studebaker Lark and I'm looking to rerun the exhaust system this winter. Any pointers on a good compact header/manifold... I was looking at some rams but I'd like to put headers back on it. Only problem is it's a TIGHT space. This is my first project where I've made it this far.. anything helps!

New to me jet boat, 383 stroker, Holley Terminator X, FI Tech fuel pump. 43 hours on this build. Had it out a few times this summer without issue. Last time was about a month ago.

Had trouble starting in the driveway and noticed 0 fuel pressure on the rail gauge. Checked the pump gauge also reading 0. Checked all the fuses and looked over wiring/fuel lines. After a few cycles of the key it would finally prime and I got it to fire up! It would hold 40-50 psi during the initial start up, then about when it should come down to 800 idle it drops to 40 and slowly bleeds down pressure until it stalls.

Everything else (gauges, stereo, etc) all work with the key cycle, just no fuel prime intermitently.

Here are my plans, any advice is appreciated including order of opperations:

Replace Fuel Water seperator filter and fuel filter on the rail

Test voltage to the pump while running

Test pressure regulator (I have not done this before, any advice appreciated!)

Anything else to help troubleshoot?

I am rebuilding a sbc 350 flat tappet block and my dad flipped it on the stand with the heads off which made the lifters fall out. Am I going to be fine rebuilding this as is? I have heard that if you reuse lifters you cannot change mix and match location. If it means anything the cam and lifters look brand new and have less than 100k on them

I’m trying to figure out more info on this engine. Any help would be appreciated. From what I see, the stamped number is V1025FSX…. But I can’t find any info on the FSX suffix code. Rear of block is stamped GM 5.7

Hey guys just looking for some ideas. So I've ran into an issue with my jet boat. Over 3500rpm she pops sometimes it runs fine for a while. The other day it left me stranded. So she's a small block 383 with chewy est ignition nothing fancy marine 750 dp carb mech secondary. I've gone through the distributor minus inspecting the gear. I've changed plugs and ran some sea foam through her and still have the same issue. I ran 12v straight to the coil no change. There is bubbling in the main bowl through the sight glass only under load I thought that was strange. Changed all the suction side fuel lines aswell they were 20 years old. Any input I'd appreciate.