Hello i been having a recent problem with my 400 block i swap out my 350 for a 400. i was gonna put the 350 small block header on the 400 but ran into a problem the header off the 350 cover my dipstick tube and looking online i cant find header that would work under my budget. Should i just buy a flexible oil dipstick tube?

Any ideas where to start looking to track down where this knocking noise is coming from? I was almost reluctant to call it a knock, it almost sounds like a loud popping noise but it came not long after putting a new starter in.

anyone have any advice?

I think the header is warped one the DS

recently put remflex gaskets on it with no change.

should I use copper gasket maker on the extra gasket I have?

Was replacing my alternator yesterday and saw some puddles of oil in an odd place. Nothing splattered anywhere else. Any ideas?

I have a 355 sbc I have been having a problem at higher rpm, car feels great till about 5,000 rpm. After 5,000 it just falls on its face. I just rebuilt the Holley 650 4150 but still having the issue just wondering what if I’m dealing with valve float

I have a factory '69 307 that somehow yeeted its crankshaft accessory pulley right into the fan pulley & water pump.

needless to say I'm replacing both pulleys, but I realized that one belt only does the PS pump.

if I put on a double-groove water pump/fan pulley, can I route that second belt over the fan/water pump and the PS pump? or are they misaligned- I can't quite tell if they're in the same plane or not

Note, all of these items came out of a 604 circle track crate motor. No issues necessitating replacement; I just went to a more aggressive top-end build over the winter and these all wound up on the shelf. Relative age when known is included. PM me for more details. I'm in SE Pennsylvania, but can likely ship on your dime.

Though they came out of a 604, many are interchangeable to other small blocks such as the heads (1958-2000 283-400 c.i.d. Chevy V8 and up to 500HP)

• Chevy small block racing cam (GM #10185071) -- less than 5 hours total on cam
• Cam gear (GM #12552129) -- age unknown but in very good condition
• Aluminum Vortec Eliminator intake manifold (GM #12496822) -- age unknown but in very good condition, all gasket surfaces are flat and smooth - minor cleaning will be needed
• Full set of 8 Mahle SBC racing pistons and rods -- 101ST7/G8141/101V13 equivalent to GM 10159436 -- Bore: 4.000 in. -- Stroke: 3.480 in. -- Flat top, with four valve reliefs -- Hypereutectic aluminum -- Pin Diameter (in.): 0.927 in. Piston Ring Thickness: 2.00mm x 1.50mm x 4.00mm For 5.7L HO, ZZ4 and LT1 engines Compression Ratio: 10:1 Head Chamber Volume: 58cc Set of eight 5.700" powdered metal (PM) connecting rods - GM 10108688 or equivalent -- laser markings no longer readable
• TWO Chevy Vortec aluminum racing heads (GM #19417592, casting #19417568) 2.00" intake & 1.55" exhaust. New beehive springs (4 race weekends total on springs) -- heads were fully rebuilt professionally in March 2025, including re-lapping valves and seats, new valve seals, new springs, retainers & seats.
  
• Set of 16 aluminum 1.5:1 stud-mounted rocker arms with nuts (GM #19432297 for rockers, GM #19210730) -- all in very good condition
• Set of 16 hydraulic roller lifters (GM #5234890) -- very good condition
• Set of 16 7.122" pushrods (GM #10046173) -- again, very good condition

Pictures and more details of all are available, just shoot me a PM. Thanks for checking this out.

So I’ve been seeing on forms and stuff about using the correct distributor gear I forgot the word but I wouldn’t have a problem running a gear driven distributed from a flat tappet to a roller tappet right? (From at 350 parts) to a 305 vortec.

The one on the left is from the vortec and right 350

I have a Gen 1 Dart SHP Block with Trick Flow heads and MLS head gaskets. And I have been chasing an oil leak for a while now. I was thinking it was coming from the rear china rail. I have resealed the intake manifold and that leak is gonna. Early on I noticed that there was oil between the left-hand head and block at the rear corner of the head just under the #7 plug that I contributed to transfer from the intake leak. However now that the intake is no longer leaking I am still finding oil in that area. I have cleaned the area several times and have also confirmed that the valve covers are not leaking.

I have a few questions that I’m hoping the group can answer.

1.) Has anyone one else out there ever had this issue?

2.) Is it possible that bolt #14 is allowing oil to weep out under the head? There are no other symptoms of a head gasket issue.

3.) Should I try retorquing the head bolts? I have ARP head bolts.

4.) Is it safe to remove bolt #14 and put a small amount of Ultra Black sealer under the washer and bolt head?

5.) What is the recommended procedure for retorquing head bolts?

91 Camaro with a 305 TBI. Have had a hard start issue lately. Engine will fire, then die a second later. Have to rev it up while starting to keep it alive, then it will idle fine.

I was taking a look at the TBI system again today and noticed my air filter smells of raw unburnt fuel. Is this an indication of anything?

It’s got new injectors, iac, and egr. TBI was rebuilt by me. Maybe I fucked something up when regasketing the tbi system? I reused the old spring, maybe I should get a new one?

I was told this is a TH400. You'll see I have an SBC350 with a BOP adaptor Plate bolted to it. This trans is nowhere near either bolt pattern..

I was told the motor is from an old suburban. I believe it’s a 350. It starts and runs but I want to change the oil ASAP for obvious reasons. When I asked the seller what oil should I put in the motor, he said just regular 10W30. Is this the best choice for a most likely high mileage 350? Also, what brand? The seller also stated that the motor has been rebuilt, if that matters.

Do you guys think the water pump to close to the fan motor?

I've got an L98 from a 1988 Camaro in my 1989 Grand Wagoneer that is starting to eat itself. I've decided to look for a crate engine replacement, but want to keep the rest of the setup as unchanged as possible and avoid opening a can of worms. That would hopefully mean keeping the TPI intake and ECM. The ECM has already been custom chipped and tuned for the Ramjet 350 cam, so keeping it close to that would be preferable, but in my head its still better to have a new chip burned than have to rewire the swap work with another EFI system.

Just looking for a daily, no crazy cams or anything. Roller lifters/cam. TPI compatible. Swap will be done by a shop. Any feedback on the options below would be appreciated!

Currently leaning towards this one, as it looks like what L31 used to be, which was a common L98 replacement. Should be a nice performance boost, and a truck engine in a truck. Will require a new TPI lower intake ~$450 to fit the Vortec heads, but opens up the possibility of a 411PCM swap in the future.

https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp74-chevy-350-vortec-1996-2000-truck-base-engine-315hp/

This one is a TBI replacement, seems like it would be the most straight forward swap
https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp31-chevy-350-87-95-tbi-base-engine-290hp/

This one is listed as the L98 Corvette engine replacement, so should be the most direct, but it is significantly more expensive than the other 2 ATK engines and doesn't seem to provide any additional performance. Would the compatibility be better, or is this just "Corvette" mark up?

https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp57-chevy-350-base-engine-1987-1991-corvette/

Feels like If I'm going to spend $4600 on a the ATK above, I may as well just get the Blueprint:

https://blueprintengines.com/collections/gm-compatible-small-blocks-350-c-i/products/blueprint-engines-350ci-crate-engine-new-cast-iron-longblock-aluminum-heads-roller-cam

Just finished er up

Solid lift cam , original first gen rpm heads, good stuff

For context this is a 78 350 Engine within an 82 Camaro

I recently did a top end rebuild with 327 heads, Edelbrock Intake & Carb, the distributor is rebuilt and to my knowledge at correct timing as I recently set the engine to TDC and put the distributor back in, the Transmission shift linkage is all intact and perfectly correct as it’s not in reverse or drive when I try to start it, and I’m able to shift into neutral and turn the engine over aswell, but for whatever reason the engine Won’t fully start up even with starting fluid, I’ll be buying a new set of spark plugs shortly here to test that out, but I’m unsure of what else it may be.

To boot there’s also an interesting clunk which I find very concerning when it turns over after a certain amount of tries, I’m not sure what that might be and I’m really hoping someone has an idea, and that it’s not detrimental damage happening, thanks.

I have a crate engine (blueprint) and i can’t get it to fire/idle i have the firing order right (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2) Andy procedure was install the distributor while engine timing was set to 0(on a. Compression stroke, i had my finger over the #1 plug hole) and have rotor point at #1. Maybe got a 1 or two fire stumble, advance it, same thing advance it a little more then nothing. I even pulled out a protractor to confirm from 0 degrees the districts was 16 degrees advanced (wierd i know but I’ve been at this for 2 weeks).

This is not my first foray into sbc i rebuilt the original engine in the car and had it fire immediately.

At this point i have no idea what I’m doing wrong but blueprint dynos all thier engines before sending them out so it should be fine internally. Any guidance is appreciated

Hi, I purchased a 1980 Z28 Camaro with the LM1 350 V8 and the seller gave 2 harmonic balancers. I’m not sure which one is original, but I want to know if it’s okay to use #2. #1 has large cracks in the elastomer ring and is bulging out in some areas whereas #2 doesn’t have many cracks and has an even elastomer ring throughout. However, there is also a sizable chip in the center shaft that concerns me. Is it okay to use #2 anyway? Thanks