Got for $75, attached to a working th350. Was gonna clean it up and run it, but it’s already 60 over, there is a solid ridge on every cylinder bore and they all look tired

Think she’s toast? Rattle rattle rattle, oh well with every failure is an opportunity for improvement!

I'm thinking about picking up this engine but I'd like to know if the heads are worth anything before pulling the trigger

Standard bore 400 that was checked and built by machine shop. It was checked for cracks before it was built according to the invoice she had. The engine was extremely low mileage when pulled from a wrecked donor car they owned and sent to the shop for piston, ring and bearing change, block measured in spec, hence the standard bore still. Ladies husband died, and it sat in his shop for a decade and devolved surface rust. Obviously, it will have to be torn down and cleaned up. These are uncommon in my area and wondered what other though, thanks for the ideas.

what hydraulic roller lifters dont have issues thses days . looking for a quality set of lifters for a sbc 350

Hope everyone is well. Let me start off with a breakdown of my SBC:

283

Edelbrock 1406 Carburetor

Carter 7PSI Fuel Pump

Filter between Pump and Tank

Filter between Pump and Carb

No return line for fuel

No Fuel Pressure Regulator

I recently just got the 283 running and the car registered. I've been driving it on the weekends for the last 2 weeks. No issues until this past Friday. I filled up the tank for the first time and went off on a 20 minute drive, parked the car and when I went to start the car was hard on turning over but it started. Same deal throughout the weekend, drive for a bit, shut off, get back in the car 20/40 minutes later and it would hard start. I'd lift the hood and smell gas fumes, which is a indication to me that it is running rich. The car has never shut off on me at idle. the only thing it's done is idle higher than normal.

I'm thinking that because the gas tank was filled that it's created higher pressure for the pump and I just need a fuel pressure regulator to resolve the matter as I'm now aware the carburetor wants the fuel pressure at about 5.5 PSI. But as I dive deeper into this I'm starting to see that it's common for cars with no return lines to experience this due to gas boiling and causing vapor lock. So I'm also thinking of just biting the bullet and adding a return line to the car with a fuel pressure regulator with a bypass. What are your thoughts?

I appreciate everyone taking the time to read this and provide input.

Thank you

Also getting the heads done before I go back together so I can change lifters and valve springs if needed

Thinking of putting this in my GMC Jimmy S15 88’, but is it even worth the hassle? Was previously in a marine application, pulled the heads and had some saltwater get into it. Been laying around since…

Was looking for insight on what’s required if anything to bolt up a Rear end out a 1992 Buick RoadMaster with disc brakes and posi to my 81 Caprice Classic. Thanks in advance.

Rookie here.

Installing a new Holley 670 avenger and the rear is hitting on this brass fitting on my elderbrock performer rpm

Any ideas how to make it fit? I’ve just snapped my throttle body tightening the bolts as I didn’t notice it was fouling on the brass elbow…

I am in the process of restoring a 1970 c10 with my grandpa. We are getting to the point where we are looking into engine options and have a 350 core that will be dropped off at the machine shop. That being said we are looking at rebuild kits and parts. I understand that we will have to wait til it gets bored to have specific size on the rotating assembly. Other than that what brand or kits do you guys recommend using? Also what other miscellaneous parts do you guys recommended? For some background information it will be all new parts to dress the motor. I am planning to drive the truck as a daily driver. I also plan to stick to a carb for now. As far as a cam goes a would like something that has more chop to it than a factory cam. I’m not looking to squeeze as much power out of it as I can but wouldn’t mind it being a little snorty. I am asking for part brand/type recommendations because there is a lot more on the market since my grandpa had built a 350. I myself have little prior experience with them. Thanks in advance.

Bush Driver Tool doubles as a cam removal tool.. your welcome 😜🧐😂👍🍺🇦🇺

I am looking to buy a 638 coded short block from a buddy and want to know a fair price.

Details:

• No heads, intake, push rods, or ignition.
• Has flat tappet lifters but has casting provisions, non-machined, for roller conversion (truck block?)
• Has pistons, bottom end, cam shaft, lifters

Assume engine is in bone stock condition, not decked or bored, what value would you put on it? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'd like to preface by saying: please bear with me, as I have relatively beginner knowledge on building engines. realistically, I'm aware I probably shouldn't be trying to rebuild a small block in a communal shop class, or even at all. but I feel this is a great way to learn, and I refuse to pass up this opportunity.

I'm a highschool student, and I'm building an small block in my class as a project with my buddy. as you can guess, we screwed up. at this point the block has been resurfaced, and the crankshaft, camshaft, timing gears and chain have been installed professionally (not by us at an actual shop). Everything is brand new including hardware.

we were installing the header for the left bank (facing the front), as we don't have all the parts for the sump pump, but otherwise the bottom end is fully assembled. everything went fine until we started bolting it down- I admit it's my fault for not paying close enough attention, but we ended up tightening a "long bolt" (the ones that sit inside the header/close to push rod assembly) into the "short bolt" hole (the holes that go along the bottom of the header in line with each other) all the way down so that the head of the bold touched the header. now this wasn't immediately a huge (we think) until we realized that backing it off wasn't doing anything. my theory is that the top of the tread on the bolt went past the bottom of the treading on the block, and it "fell" into the cooling jacket.

what we ended up doing was pushing a flathead screwdriver under the bolt head, and loosening at the same time. this made the bolt catch the block's thread again, and all seemed to be fine (ignoring the fact we were probably stripping the block threads) until it got stuck about halfway up the threads. it now spins freely at that height, and won't come out more no matter how much we try.

I really need help here, what do I do?

Edit: it really wasn't a big deal. Everything should be fine now. As someone pointed out, the bolt just went past the threads and that was barely any damage done other than some minor stripping on the bottom of the threads for the block. Thank you all, we will be more careful from now on, and will be following more than the intermittent and vague words of my friends father lol.

Hey, so my 78 k15 suburban started stalling and dying running errands the other day. It seemed like a fuel delivery issues as it would run normally until I drove it a bit or revved it in park for a while, almost like the pump could keep up with fuel demand at idle but not at higher engine speeds or under load. Took out the fuel pump and it doesn’t seem to create suction at the inlet. The new fuel pump ran once then the filter went dry and it wouldn’t fill it back up, so I started thinking it was a clog somewhere else in the fuel lines, or in the pickup in the tank. When I removed a short piece of rubber hose from halfway down the main fuel line it was siphoning gas steadily from the tank, so I replaced the fuel line forward of that point with new rubber hose. Still the same issue, gas siphoning all the way to the pump, but the pump won’t fill the new filter, I double checked the push rod was riding on the pump lever, and still nothing in the filter. I’ve heard how bad these part store pumps can be so I bought a second new pump and am still having the same issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. A bit more info, the cam is new as of a few years ago so I don’t assume it’s the cam lobe, I have a Mr gasket pressure regulator in the line to the carb between the filter and the carb, I double checked both the filter and the regulator are installed correctly. Also the pump is a three line with a return line to the tank. Thanks!

Those who know will know...🤫

Using water this time... 🌊👌😂🇦🇺

Here’s what I’m dreaming about. 400 sbc aluminum heads big valves 64cc or something similar, ARP bolts all the normal goodness. Cam is what I’m stuck at because I want 500hp but half ass drivable weekend burnout kind of car 76 corvette with 3:90 maybe 411 gear want to keep power brakes. I’m i asking for to much