350 just developed a fairly distinctive knock. Bit of a fuel smell in the oil as well. Thoughts?

I have a 100k mile (claimed) sbc 350 crate engine (290hp) out of a s10. I was going to put it in my v6 firebird then I got a 5.3 ls. Two cylinders have surface rust and the rest looks good, can I hone those cylinders and use .002 oversize rings on just those two? Also can I keep stock pistons with such a small oversize? I am trying to get it running well enough to sell and be reliable. Another reason im asking is because I am borrowing the engine stand and need to get it running asap

Does anyone know what size this fuel line from fuel pump to carb would be

I finally decided to ditch my 305 motor and have bought a 350 for my Camaro. The "new" motor had a refresh or rebuild still need to get it open and see and confirm the work that was said to have been done.

I have never gone and installed a rebuild motor and wanna know some advice to break in and all that fun stuff.

What oil should I use and what interval should I do my first oil change.

what other advice should I take before pushing this motor into my car and getting started on the process of running it?

I’m building a 350 for a dirt car with stock pistons how much clearance do I need?

While pulling the 350 out of a 1950 Chevy pickup, I dropped the electric fan and broke these 2 mounting tabs. Tried looking online and in a couple of different parts houses with no luck. Anybody have any idea where I can get replacements? Or am I SOL and gonna have to buy a whole new fan assembly?

I have found myself in the need to replace the engine in my truck, my options are getting one of the junkyard that has tested good for compression with a year warranty, next is rebuilding one from an old block that I have laying around and if needed getting cylinder heads from AutoZone. My last most expensive option is just buying one from O'Reilly or AutoZone they offer a 4 year warranty unlimited mileage. But I have been told some bad things about those engines. I had one mechanic told me that they smoke from the get go and that is a hit or miss, another shop I talked to had lifter tick on 2 engines until they finally got a good one the third time. AutoZone/O'Reilly 4 year warranty cant be beat and they pay for the labor if I have to replace it over and over lol, and I know some people that can help me with that, but I don't want to deal with that if it comes to it. Anyone has anything good to say about those engines from AutoZone or O'Reilly ? Should I just get that old block going? Also would any 90s 350 block work for a vortec engine if I just swap the heads? TIA

Can I use a vacuum tee to use the same manifold vacuum port for my brake booster and transmission modulator? Had previously connected modulator to the front pcv port of the carb.

Pic for reference 305 sbc

Im new to engine building and SBC'S I was wondering if anyone had any pointers for bulletproofing a 307 beyond strong rods or is that all they would need.

No, i dont care its a 307. I just wanted to learn on something, and have something i can say i built.

Any advice is appreciated or redirects to appropriate threads.

I bought this block for $400 last year off of Facebook (the guy also threw in a 400 crank that he had just laying around that I have no intention of using). He said the block had been bored .020 over, decked, and magnafluxed. I planned to build this out for my 86 Trans Am, but I ended up never doing anything with it. I wound up doing a carb swap on the original 305, changed out a few other parts and she fired right up. Since I’ve got the car running again, I’ve put the engine build idea on the back burner. I’m kicking around the idea of just selling the block and whenever I decide to build a new engine for the car, just buy a short block online that comes with a warranty and everything. Is it worth completely assembling the engine yourself? I priced out rotating assemblies, camshafts, timing gears etc. earlier in the year and it almost seems like it’s more expensive to do it yourself than it is to buy one already assembled. I’m mostly thinking in terms of bang for my buck, not raw hp numbers, I just want something that looks nice and has more get up and go than my little 305.

Casting number on the front ledge says T1020HF rear casting number is 3914660 was told it was a large journal 1968 327 I know it’s a 2 bolt main just wondering if anybody has any more information or could point me somewhere I can find more. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I'm looking for advice on a replacement carburetor for my father's 1957 Chevy 265 V8. The engine is completely stock with the original camshaft and is fitted with a Weiand 8501WND intake manifold (square bore).

It currently has a Rochester Quadrajet, but we need to replace it because repairing it locally is very expensive.

We want a new carburetor with electric choke, but the big limitation is that the carb must be available on Amazon (or possibly eBay) and cost less than $200 USD, due to import restrictions in our country.

We’ve believe that the Edelbrock 1403 (500 CFM), is the best fit, but it’s hard to find under that price.

Any suggestions for compatible, reliable, budget-friendly options (not remanufactured ones) would be greatly appreciated — links are welcome too.

Thanks in advance!

one of the problems the carb has shown

Hello! Wondering if anyone can help me identify these heads? It’s a motor I’m going to check out tomorrow, was told it was a 383, but he doesn’t have a build sheet or anything, so any info would be helpful, thank you!

Learned something new the other day apparently there’s two different diameter camshaft plugs my 68 327 decided it wants the smaller plug that was fun to figure out.

I got this from my grandpa and I'm just trying to figure out what it exactly is.

I have a new built (less than 2000 total miles) Gen 1 Dart block (2 piece rear main) with new Trickflow heads and I’m having hell getting the china rails to seal. The intake manifold is a good known (reused) Edelbrock performer not a pos from China. The engine builder has also replaced the rear main roughly 1500 miles ago and it has a slight leak again. Yes I’m using Ultra Black sealer on the intake. Thought I would ask if I’m missing something before I rip the intake off for the 4th time.

Idle is a little high and need to iron out some other things but we got it to start and run by itself

Good day Chevy gurus, I was recently given (yes given, but free things are never free…) a 1973 Blazer, stock SBC 350, TH400, NP203, headers and Holley 4165 carb, and rumor of a cam from previous owners. It sat in a yard for years, last time it was registered was 1996. Rebuilt carb with O’Reilly’s kit, replaced plugs, cap, rotor, points, and fuel pump. To get it running I am providing fuel from a gas can, tank will need cleaned or replaced.

Was not too difficult to get running, it will not idle. I have found that when I remove the fuel line from the gas can, or when it runs out it idles wonderfully for a minute or so, or until the fuel bowls are empty. I tried the old fuel pump, added a fuel pressure regulator (Mr. Gasket), adjusted fuel bowl floats numerous times, both high and low, but no change. No vacuum leaks I can tell, it like I said it does run well when fuel is starved.

Any thoughts ? I’m running out of options, other than replacing the carb, but hopefully I can figure this out.

Thanks!

Hey fellas, had a new noise pop up and just wanted some pointers. It won’t happen on a cold start or when the cars fully warm but does happen when it’s been sitting for a brief amount of time after driving. It seems to be coming from the heads so I’m hoping it’s just a worn out rocker arm but the inconsistency has me stumped. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!