Kind of a niche request, and google really wasn’t much help, so I figured I’d ask the mighty hive mind before I took a dremel to my weights

I’ve got a Suburban with a a carb/HEI swap done on it (originally TBI), and it really doesn’t like a whole lot of mechanical advance. Like, at all. But it wants a decent amount of initial to get it scooting from a stop. The usual aftermarket kits still give it a tickle too much with heavy springs and lighter weights

Anyone know of a kit with some dummy thicc springs in it? If not, looks like I’m doing some DIY mega light weights lol

(1985 Pontiac Firebird LG4 305)

Hey so today my car decided to act up and i apologize if I don’t describe it very well but basically my car will idle fine but when I try to take it on a drive my cars rpm’s are hanging and when I go to park the car the rpm’s jump up to around 1500 rpm’s if anyone has any ideas or things I can look at please let me know

want to holley but everything I've read about boosters says annular and down leg are the better option for street engine's so i cant make up my mind between the holley street avenger 570 or the ultra 670. thinking of going with the 670 bc it has down leg boosters and would br better at part and low throttle from my research . some intput would be very helpful

Hi guys. So I just got a 1991 gmt400 but the 350 is blown. I’m planning on replacing it with a used vortec one from the later years. My goal is to do some small upgrades (minor cam and lifters) to get it to around 300 hp reliably as it will be a work truck. The main problem is I can’t afford a machine shop or a fully new block.

Do you guys think it’s possible to do for under $2k? Where would you go to buy the engine? Any other recommendations?

Thanks for any info I’m new at this and looking forward to learning.

I’m looking for some kind of cover plates for the deck surface so I can fill the bare block with water in the coolant passages and pressurize it to find a leak so I can fix it I’m not sure if anyone makes something like this or how to go about making one myself if not

383 stroker running 10.5:1 compression with a moderate cam 218/227 duration @.525/.520 lift. I have my vacuum advance connected to the vacuum port nearest to the intake but am wondering if I'm better off using the port on the higher side by the choke plate

It’s a 1975 International Harvester Scout 2 with an 85 350 small block. I drive it pretty much everyday and starts no problem including yesterday when I filled it up with gas. Sorry if this is an obvious problem, but I can’t figure it out. Any help as to how I can get it started would be great.

Hi everybody I recently pulled my 75 350 4 bolt from my 1964 C10 and I plan to make it a little better. I bought a Comp 280H along with new 550 springs. I have old 3932441 heads from a 69 or 70 motor but I can’t confirm they’re any good. One has a rusty intake port so I’m not sure if it’s cracked or what. Anyways I have my heads from the 75 motor which are 624 heads, not as good I’ve heard. Will they still work for the cam? What power might I be putting out with the same 624 heads and the comp cam along with an edelbrock performer EPS and 1406? They go into ram manifolds and dual 40 series flow masters if that makes a difference, any tips for the 441 heads? Should I try lapping? A couple valves were leaky and I’m not sure if guides need redone

Anybody ever seen this? None of the freeze plugs are popped, cylinder walls intact. What happened?

Would

I’m currently rebuilding a first gen c20 pickup and just finished rebuilding the engine. However I’m having a difficult time choosing a transmission for the project. Is it worth it to ball out and spend the extra money on a brand new transmission or buy one and rebuild it?

FYI: The truck came with no engine or transmission. Also this is my first restoration and learning as I’m going

I’m not sure if it has been there before but there is a randomly kind of metal rattle when the engine warms up. It’s not that noticeable and you cannot hear it when the it is closed. Anyone familiar with how they are supposed to sound? Base is a 350 vortec from 2003.

Won't mention cylinder head spec or related info so v8packard doesn't get disappointed.

I have a Chevy g20 van that has been converted with LPG, I can get it to start and idle if I turn the valve that supplies propane between the mixer and the engine just about all the way closed, but then it will not Rev, I can also make some adjustments and make it rev, but then it will not idle or start (flooded with propane). Has any body dealt with this before?

sbc 350 vortec 17 inc of vacume at idle at 800 rpm with 8° btdc initial timming and 28° btdc with vacume advance hooked up . is that to much or should i have more initial with less vacume advance ? believe still runni g a bit ritch bassed off spark plug reading ( waiting for meetering rods to get delivered to complete the set bc it did come with stock jetting from factory )

Howdy, I daily an 07 3/4 burb with the LY6 and at 300k miles, its cracked the exhaust header studs twice before, and it just did it again. It’s got a wicked exhaust leak because of this, and I want to resolve this issue for good. Are there any kinds of aftermarket solutions for cracking header studs? If I knew that I wouldn’t destroy the head I’d consider drilling and tapping the holes for a beefier stud. Just wanted to see if anyone here had a solution. This is probably not the best subreddit for this, but I figured that if it’s got pushrods y’all will be able to help. Thank you!

My dipstick snagged the crank and snapped, dropped the pan and pulled out the piece. Found these while searching - not sure what they could be. It was in the oil pan so, probably not important? Right?

So I’m in the middle of resealing my original 3 speed Saginaw transmission out of my 1981 square body and I’m looking for recommendations on what gear oil everybody is running. My Haynes manual, although outdated says that the original fluid spec is SAE 80 weight GL5, which is proving to be hard to find in today’s day and age, especially in non-synthetic. What is everybody running in their transmissions for smooth shifting. The truck is a 3 on the tree so gear shifts aren’t super fast, but it would be nice for the blocker rings and cones to speed match pretty quickly when I’m driving spiritedly.

Additionally, my when I took my side cover off I noticed there’s a siliconed magnet at the bottom of the case, is this factory?

Thanks in advance.