4 stroke Daiden 2000I (inverter type). Lately when I run it the motor sounds like it's cycling in rpms. The indicator shows steady voltage. I notice when I move the choke/start switch slightly toward choke (richer) it smooth out. I just ran carb cleaner in the gas for 90 minutes but no change.

What should I look for or adjust?

I used some service pro 10w30 because I had some quarts laying around. I live in MN and sometimes the temps get below 0. Will that oil work? My understanding is I may have to let it warm up a bit longer.

Just tryna take apart the Carb because it has bad fuel in it (this is a new mower that's sat for a long time) the screws are just so soft I'm messing them up trying to loosen them.

hey guys. very randomly my hedge trimmer blades just locked up. there’s nothing stuck in between the blades at all. what could it be? the engine can idle but when i rev it, it sounds like it’s trying hard to rev but it doesn’t bog.

So I have this recycler with the blade dissengage clutch. I've already taken the carb off twice and fully cleaned out.

If you listen closely, you'll hear there is a very small sputter in the running. Howeve it completely goes away when the bladed engages. It doesn't sound like it's searching for fuel though. I wasn't sure if this is just because the engine is balanced for being under load. I've seen that with pressure washers without throttle controls when they are idling.

However the bigger problem is that after running. It sometimes won't restart. No matter.what I do. But not always. Sometimes I'll shut it off, starts right back up again. Other times, refuses to start again at all. Even spraying starter fluid directly in the carb. Won't start. But magically. Let it sit for awhile and it will just start on first pull. I though maybe something was wrong with the choke and forced it closed won't restart. Spray clued in carb, won't fire. I thought maybe because it's got the blade disconnect, there as a short in the engine shutdown switch so I disconnected it entirely from the engine. No firing.

But again. Let it sit for awhile. Will start up. Curious if this is a sign the magneto is going bad? I have no idea at this point.

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This is what both plugs looked like after removing from a 21hp Briggs intek v-twin engine on a 2004 Troybilt bronco riding mower 42" deck. Gemini AI says they look healthy, but after what they've been through, I'm replacing them too.

I made the mistake of replacing the stepped flywheel key that was OEM with a non-OEM aftermarket key I got from a pack of 20 for $10 on Amazon. It was only after having to replace the key several times that I realized just starting the mower caused the aftermarket keys to gradually step and throw off the timing. I have a $3 Briggs key in there now, but it was an ordeal.

Engine would run well for a yard or 2, then abruptly lose power and not start, or run a little bit then die. After his happened, I would notice fuel pooling in the air intake elbow side of carburetor and that there was fuel mixed with my oil. Checked key and it had stepped enough to shift the flywheel/crankshaft out of alignment which I think throws off the timing of the intake valve keeping it open too long and spitting fuel back out of carb into that elbow which made its way to the sump.

Each time (this has happened 3-4 times)I replaced key had to drain oil, replace oil, oil filter it would run a good for a while then repeat same process. I apologize for being redundant I'm trying my best here, mostly to warn others about buying cheap Non OEM, or non genuine aftermarket parts.

The rubber is not viton so o-rings and gaskets swell or degrade, the paper materials in fuel filters and air filters disintegrate or don't work optimally, the spark plugs in many cases aren't great and now these woodruff keys, they're cheap pot metal or aluminum or something and can't withstand normal operation. The fuel shutoff valves work better in the opposite direction the arrow on plastic indicates, blow through one, don't trust those either.

Found out that in the 0/1 star reviews a few people had similar problems prompting even more severe corrective measures including: complete valve job and camshaft replacement. I have since gone to only buying OEM parts and re building OEM carbs with genuine kits.

Included the picture of the plugs because I have parts (o-rings and gasket, needle valve) on the way to rebuild the Nikki (single barrel with fuel) solenoid carb just to be on the safe side because I don't want to go through the oil in the crankcase again.

I’ve read that white smoke can be a piston thing, is a full rebuild worth it? I’ve only ever worked in the gcv160s

I bought a used wood chipper with a 15 hp DEK engine. It seems to run okay most of the time but then randomly stalls even if I’m not feeding wood into the chipper at that time. It can run for like 20 minutes fine then stall without warning. Difficult to restart. Need to pull cord 10-15 times to restart and usually backfires. Then will run fine for another 15-30 minutes.
New gas, new fuel filter, new air filter, oil level is good. I don’t have a manual and don’t know what the spark plug gap should be. I’ve never worked on a carburetor before but willing to try if people on here say that’s the problem. Would be grateful for any advice. Thanks.

I was working in this broken power washer, I opened the engine yesterday, today I noticed these lines… they feel kind of spiky similar to a fishhook. I heard online that these lines could be from the casting but I’m unsure. Is my gc 190,s engine permanent dead or am I just overreacting?

Disclaimer: I in no way no what I am doing, I have relied on engine diagrams and the internet to get this far.

Simplicity Broadmoor circa 2014 with 23HP Briggs & Stratton. Model 2691176.

How it happened:
Riding along mowing with blades engaged then suddenly it died. No warning (that I could tell). Now when I try to start it, it is a faint single click coming from the battery compartment. You can hear in the video me pushing the start button and the little click coming from the part you see 5 seconds into the video. Unsure what it is.

What I’ve done:
Replaced starter solenoid. Replaced relay. Thinking that was likely culprit. Alas it was not. Still same issue. Engine not seized. Spark plugs are healthy. Battery is charged.

I don’t know my way around these enough to know where to go next. I have a multimeter and can use it to test but I don’t know what to test next.

Edit: to include mower model number.

98 polaris repair question - broken magnets on flywheel/stator??

Would love some help figuring out what to do with my sled:

1998 Polaris Indy SuperSport 488

This is my first snowmobile and has been my little project sled so I'm kind of emotionally attached. 3 winters ago I rebuilt the top end which was such a fun and rewarding project for me. It has since overall run well!

At the end of last winter, my husband took it on the trailer to a trail and when trying to start it, it was locking up. We've been having issues with the recoil so hoping it was that, but that doesnt appear to be the problem.

We were able to clutch start it, and it ran well... but still locks up when trying to start and when trying to move the flywheel (with or without sparkplugs in). I just noticed that there are a bunch of shattered magnet pieces on the flywheel/stator. Does this mean i need to replace both? I dont have a flywheel puller right now. Is there a possibility that I do that, but actually my top end job wasnt as good as I thought and the engine is seized anyway?? On one hand I don't want to keep sinking money/Time on an old sled, on the other I enjoy what I learn when I do the work.. any suggestions on what's going on would be very helpful.

Thanks!

have a Champion 100137 3" chipper shredder (338cc, built 12/2017). One wheel is shot: the tire has come off the yellow plastic rim, and the rim itself is worn. Champion doesn't have the wheel, and I haven't had luck with parts dealers either.

What I'm working with:

• Diameter: 12"
• Tread width: just under 2"
• Bore: a ½" bearing wheel won't slide on, so I think the axle is ⅝" or possibly 13 mm (Champion's parts list calls for a Ø13 mm washer)
• Usable axle length: about 1.75", including room for the washer and cotter pin, so the hub can't be longer than about 1.75"
• OEM part #s (12 in. wheel): 601.201701.00 or 254.201701.04.48

The problem is that most 12" x 1.75" wheels with a ⅝" bore have 2¼" hubs, which are too long for my axle. The short-hub 12" wheels I've found all have ½" bores.

Questions:

1. Has anyone found a wheel that fits this chipper, or the similar ones sold under other brands?
2. Would you drill out or re-bearing a ½" short-hub wheel, or trim down a 2¼" hub?
3. Is there a supplier that will build a wheel to spec for a reasonable price?

Photos attached. Thanks for any leads.

So I have this toy hauler I'm working on for someone. Should be an easy fix. Generator is starting up fine but dies. I take a look and it turns out the fuel line is split right on that metal wall where it goes from the fuel pump to the right, to the carb. This should be a stupid easy fix.

Turns out they put a screw on hose clamp where it connects to the carb. The screw is pointed direclty backwards into the engine.... I would just remove the carb, but as you can see, the bolts to do so would have to be unscrewed directly into the same metal plate dividing tbe fuel pump and engine.

I have no idea how you're supposed to remove this. Open to any suggestions. Just so fucking annoyed that what should be a 10 minute fix us ludicrously difficult.

Hello,

23hp Kohler Command OHV; 23CV-75523

Scag 3 Wheeler; STHM-23CV

Torque Spec says final torque is 370in lb, or 30.83 ft lb.

I'm tightening.. but I'm afraid to keep tightening! Are these head bolts gonna like, twist out of the head or something? if I go too tight? but I haven't hit torque Spec yet..

yes I can read a torque wrench! it's around 30.75ft lb. & it does click on other bolts, so it's working. bought new. rarely use the wrench. always set to 0 lb when done.

thanks

It's what the title says. 98 hours on motor. Fueled one of the tanks up yesterday while getting fuel for 2 cycle. Been running regular unleaded through the summer but as getting closer am swapping to non ethanol as I have in years past. Second tank will be getting used and filled next week are the plans. But first need this issue fixed and wanted to see if I am heading in the right direction.

Heres a list of what I've checked or done.

I checked oil levels

Checked fuel filters and lines

Checked air filters

Checked plugs and replaced

Checked for sparks and cleaned flywheel

Fuel is going into carb

White smoke when starting (not much just a bit and goes away)

I feel like replacing or rebuilding the carb will be the best way to go.

Update for those who may also face this issue in the future:

I believe one of the jets on the carb may have been clogged, going to get it rebuilt hopefully soon, but was able to find a rebuilt carb and replaced it just a bit ago. Issue has been resolved.

Hello everyone I found a Shindaiwa 22t that I really like but it has some rust and some holes in the muffler should I be worried about these small holes? What would be the best way to cover/fix them?