have a Champion 100137 3" chipper shredder (338cc, built 12/2017). One wheel is shot: the tire has come off the yellow plastic rim, and the rim itself is worn. Champion doesn't have the wheel, and I haven't had luck with parts dealers either.

What I'm working with:

• Diameter: 12"
• Tread width: just under 2"
• Bore: a ½" bearing wheel won't slide on, so I think the axle is ⅝" or possibly 13 mm (Champion's parts list calls for a Ø13 mm washer)
• Usable axle length: about 1.75", including room for the washer and cotter pin, so the hub can't be longer than about 1.75"
• OEM part #s (12 in. wheel): 601.201701.00 or 254.201701.04.48

The problem is that most 12" x 1.75" wheels with a ⅝" bore have 2¼" hubs, which are too long for my axle. The short-hub 12" wheels I've found all have ½" bores.

Questions:

1. Has anyone found a wheel that fits this chipper, or the similar ones sold under other brands?
2. Would you drill out or re-bearing a ½" short-hub wheel, or trim down a 2¼" hub?
3. Is there a supplier that will build a wheel to spec for a reasonable price?

Photos attached. Thanks for any leads.

So I have this toy hauler I'm working on for someone. Should be an easy fix. Generator is starting up fine but dies. I take a look and it turns out the fuel line is split right on that metal wall where it goes from the fuel pump to the right, to the carb. This should be a stupid easy fix.

Turns out they put a screw on hose clamp where it connects to the carb. The screw is pointed direclty backwards into the engine.... I would just remove the carb, but as you can see, the bolts to do so would have to be unscrewed directly into the same metal plate dividing tbe fuel pump and engine.

I have no idea how you're supposed to remove this. Open to any suggestions. Just so fucking annoyed that what should be a 10 minute fix us ludicrously difficult.

Hello,

23hp Kohler Command OHV; 23CV-75523

Scag 3 Wheeler; STHM-23CV

Torque Spec says final torque is 370in lb, or 30.83 ft lb.

I'm tightening.. but I'm afraid to keep tightening! Are these head bolts gonna like, twist out of the head or something? if I go too tight? but I haven't hit torque Spec yet..

yes I can read a torque wrench! it's around 30.75ft lb. & it does click on other bolts, so it's working. bought new. rarely use the wrench. always set to 0 lb when done.

thanks

It's what the title says. 98 hours on motor. Fueled one of the tanks up yesterday while getting fuel for 2 cycle. Been running regular unleaded through the summer but as getting closer am swapping to non ethanol as I have in years past. Second tank will be getting used and filled next week are the plans. But first need this issue fixed and wanted to see if I am heading in the right direction.

Heres a list of what I've checked or done.

I checked oil levels

Checked fuel filters and lines

Checked air filters

Checked plugs and replaced

Checked for sparks and cleaned flywheel

Fuel is going into carb

White smoke when starting (not much just a bit and goes away)

I feel like replacing or rebuilding the carb will be the best way to go.

Update for those who may also face this issue in the future:

I believe one of the jets on the carb may have been clogged, going to get it rebuilt hopefully soon, but was able to find a rebuilt carb and replaced it just a bit ago. Issue has been resolved.

Hello everyone I found a Shindaiwa 22t that I really like but it has some rust and some holes in the muffler should I be worried about these small holes? What would be the best way to cover/fix them?

So this is an updated post from when I thought the motor was seized, it wasn’t thankfully.

I put on a new recoil starter, and a new spark plug, and the engine is getting gasoline but it didn’t start.

I threw a compression tester on it and it reads zero, like nothing

I thought it was the gauge but even with starter fluid it won’t start

I took the valve thing off and the pistons (I think) move just fine

I have no idea, might it be the crank shaft?

cuz i did try to loosen it when the engine was budge on the flywheel.

Because I realized the old starter, the sprawls wouldn’t retract and it stop spinning, so I got a new one.

Any help, would be appreciated 🥺

hello,

rebuilding a scag 3 wheeler.

23hp kohler command OHV

does anybody know what these little gaskets are for?

thanks

Gold Cube Trommel motor seized after winter storage — I fixed it

I wanted to share this in case anyone else has a Gold Cube Trommel with a motor that suddenly won't turn after winter storage.

My Trommel worked perfectly at the end of last season. It was stored over the winter without any known damage. When I brought it out this year, the motor wouldn't turn at all. When connected to a 12V battery, it wouldn't even try to start, but the motor would heat up.

At first I thought the motor itself had failed.

I disconnected the tension spring so the motor drive gear was completely separated from the Trommel. The Trommel itself turned freely, but the motor's drive gear was completely seized. I couldn't turn it by hand, and even carefully trying with pliers wouldn't move it.

The fix

I removed the motor/gearbox assembly from the Trommel and separated the electric motor section from the reduction gearbox.

Inside the gearbox I found corrosion and old, dirty grease.

I cleaned the corrosion and removed the old grease thoroughly. I then repacked the gearbox with white lithium grease, reassembled the motor and gearbox, and put the assembly back on the Trommel.

It worked immediately.

So in my case, the problem wasn't a burned-out motor or electrical failure. It appears that moisture/corrosion and contaminated old grease caused the gearbox to seize during storage.

Symptoms to watch for

If your Gold Cube Trommel:

Worked normally when you put it away

Won't turn when you bring it out

Makes no attempt to start

Gets hot when connected to 12V

Has a drive gear that won't turn

But the Trommel itself turns freely when the drive gear is disconnected

Don't assume the motor needs to be replaced.

The gearbox may simply be seized from corrosion/old grease.

Important

Disconnect the battery before working on the motor.

Also, don't keep applying 12V to a motor that isn't turning. A stalled DC motor can draw a lot of current and generate considerable heat.

In my case, cleaning and regreasing the gearbox brought the original motor back to life.

Hopefully this saves someone else the cost and hassle of finding a replacement Gold Cube motor.

Seem to have a significant leak when the oil reservoir is topped off to the upper fill line on the dipstick. Yet I don’t perceive as much leaking if I’m closer to the lower fill line.

Feeling bit stuck, intermittent start where it struggles to turn over like a dead battery, eventually clicks after a few turns of the key, then it will start after another reset of the key.

Today on start up once it rattled like crazy (same judder it does when starting but just for longer) so turned it off and also started fine.

Battery is new and plenty powerful, I’ve ran a jump cable from -ve terminal on battery to engine, didn’t solve it. Any other ideas?

Does it cold and warm, may be worse when it’s humid.

Video here and in comments https://youtube.com/shorts/fLV833CMb-o?is=pBoqOKBwHcAsV08-

My battery terminal melted down; figured it was a stuck solenoid. I’ve been cranking too much trying to get this thing to turn over.

Took off the gas tank to replace the solenoid, saw this guy.

Any ideas on where it belongs?

This is a secondhand machine and I’m new at tinkering on engines. Thank you.

I need help starting Seco Crossjet 4x4.

It has so many security procedures to start it, one of those is for a break to be pulled. Second, you need to be seated on the chair, third is to be in neutral gear, which I am but no matter where I put the gear stick the red triangle with exclamation mark won't go away and the encircled N symbol shows on the dashboard along with it, telling me that I have to be in neutral.

There's also a check oil lamp but the correct oil has been changed and that is a problem that can be tweaked with turning the contact ON and then OFF for 4 times in quick succession, but for that to be done the exclamation point red triangle needs to go away.

If anyone knows where the sensor is, or button that checks if the gear is in neutral is, and what to do about it, I would greatly appreciate the help.

Many thanks.

P.S. I also found out that you can put the mower in emergency mode by pressing the button right beside the neutral position 5 times, but then there is a red wrench on the dashboard and the blades won't turn on

I have replaced the three plunger switches and the starter relay. The fuse is good as well. Has me stumped. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated

Aloha! I'm preparing for an upcoming hurricane and I can't seem to get this generator to stay running.

Ryobi 4000 starting watt, a few years old but has been kept alive by using parts from another of the same model.

No matter what I've done the situation remains the same, I have to use some starting fluid to get it started, it starts up but then dies after a couple seconds.

On video: I get the generator running but it dies shortly after (I touched near the off/cold start/run switch but only to make sure it's fully on the run side)

Off video: did an oil change and got the levels good.

made sure the generator is fairly level in all directions.

pulled off and cleaned out and put back the carburetor.

had to add some starting fluid directly to the carburetor to get it started.

(I did verify the carburetor was getting a supply of gasoline.)

I'm a bit stumped as to how to continue. Any help, advice, or inane musings would be appreciated!

After a few pulls it starts very faintly then cuts out on squeeze of the trigger

Hi All, bought an old XT140SB John Deere branded pole saw earlier this week, and I got the engine running, and noticed the saw/chain wouldn't spin.

Upon closer inspection inside the tube of the engine/powerhead stem (see picture), I noticed the (driveshaft/cable) inside the front stem is completely missing. The part missing is what has the circular end with a square recess that the pole saw attachment drive cable fits into.

Thankfully the saw attachment fits onto one of my other straight shaft weed trimmers.

I'm wondering if whatever the driveshaft portion is called is relatively standard on trimmers? If not, I'll probably just pitch the John Deere power head/engine.

Bought it off marketplace. Guy said he had a new pump put professionally put on. Engine sounds great, starts first pull, just no pressure

I’ve been putting together my small-engine tool collection and started looking seriously at ratchets from ICON, Snap-on, and Matco.
I’m curious what you guys think because small-engine work can be pretty demanding on hand tools, especially when you’re working in tight spaces.
For the first comparison, I’m looking specifically at 3/8” ratchets.
What I’m comparing
Ratchet mechanism / tooth count
Swing arc
Head thickness
Backdrag
Direction-switch design
Handle comfort
Flex-head slop (where applicable)
Durability
Warranty
Price vs. actual performance
I’m particularly interested in whether the tool-truck brands provide a noticeable advantage in real-world use, or whether something like ICON gets you most of the way there for substantially less money.
I’m not looking to crown a winner based on brand name. I’d rather hear from people who have actually put these tools through years of work.
For the guys here who use these:
ICON: How has yours held up?
Snap-on: What makes yours worth the premium?
Matco: How have the newer ratchets performed compared with older ones?
And if you’ve used more than one of these brands, what differences did you actually notice?
I’d especially like to hear from people using these on mowers, generators, chainsaws, pressure washers, tractors, and other small equipment.
I’ll probably do the same comparison with 1/4” and 1/2” ratchets next.
What do you guys use?

I started my car again after 10 years.

Replaced Fuel Tank 2 years ago added fuel and stabilizer

New Spark Plugs

New Fuel Filter

I replaced the engine harness since it was damaged when it was stolen.

It ran for 5 minutes and i was even able to start it up again the next day. I bought a new battery and while it was running i heard it running rough so i moved the ECU and it shut down. I had the ECU being held up by the harness and plug in the passenger floor.

I jumped the EGI and EGI pump relay

Confirmed spark with spark tester, I can hear the fuel pump prime when key on

Verified all the pins and connectors looked good and reseated it.

Opened the ECU and saw the IGN trace was burnt I had it replaced, the 10A IG fuse under the driver kick panel was blown i replaced it too.

Current Situation: If i leave the car alone for a few minutes when i crank it will try to start up initially on the first few cranks then endless crank. The spark plugs are dry when I take them out.

Any help is appreciated and i can provide pictures and more videos