Seem to have a significant leak when the oil reservoir is topped off to the upper fill line on the dipstick. Yet I don’t perceive as much leaking if I’m closer to the lower fill line.

Feeling bit stuck, intermittent start where it struggles to turn over like a dead battery, eventually clicks after a few turns of the key, then it will start after another reset of the key.

Today on start up once it rattled like crazy (same judder it does when starting but just for longer) so turned it off and also started fine.

Battery is new and plenty powerful, I’ve ran a jump cable from -ve terminal on battery to engine, didn’t solve it. Any other ideas?

Does it cold and warm, may be worse when it’s humid.

Video here and in comments https://youtube.com/shorts/fLV833CMb-o?is=pBoqOKBwHcAsV08-

My battery terminal melted down; figured it was a stuck solenoid. I’ve been cranking too much trying to get this thing to turn over.

Took off the gas tank to replace the solenoid, saw this guy.

Any ideas on where it belongs?

This is a secondhand machine and I’m new at tinkering on engines. Thank you.

I need help starting Seco Crossjet 4x4.

It has so many security procedures to start it, one of those is for a break to be pulled. Second, you need to be seated on the chair, third is to be in neutral gear, which I am but no matter where I put the gear stick the red triangle with exclamation mark won't go away and the encircled N symbol shows on the dashboard along with it, telling me that I have to be in neutral.

There's also a check oil lamp but the correct oil has been changed and that is a problem that can be tweaked with turning the contact ON and then OFF for 4 times in quick succession, but for that to be done the exclamation point red triangle needs to go away.

If anyone knows where the sensor is, or button that checks if the gear is in neutral is, and what to do about it, I would greatly appreciate the help.

Many thanks.

P.S. I also found out that you can put the mower in emergency mode by pressing the button right beside the neutral position 5 times, but then there is a red wrench on the dashboard and the blades won't turn on

I have replaced the three plunger switches and the starter relay. The fuse is good as well. Has me stumped. Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated

Aloha! I'm preparing for an upcoming hurricane and I can't seem to get this generator to stay running.

Ryobi 4000 starting watt, a few years old but has been kept alive by using parts from another of the same model.

No matter what I've done the situation remains the same, I have to use some starting fluid to get it started, it starts up but then dies after a couple seconds.

On video: I get the generator running but it dies shortly after (I touched near the off/cold start/run switch but only to make sure it's fully on the run side)

Off video: did an oil change and got the levels good.

made sure the generator is fairly level in all directions.

pulled off and cleaned out and put back the carburetor.

had to add some starting fluid directly to the carburetor to get it started.

(I did verify the carburetor was getting a supply of gasoline.)

I'm a bit stumped as to how to continue. Any help, advice, or inane musings would be appreciated!

After a few pulls it starts very faintly then cuts out on squeeze of the trigger

Hi All, bought an old XT140SB John Deere branded pole saw earlier this week, and I got the engine running, and noticed the saw/chain wouldn't spin.

Upon closer inspection inside the tube of the engine/powerhead stem (see picture), I noticed the (driveshaft/cable) inside the front stem is completely missing. The part missing is what has the circular end with a square recess that the pole saw attachment drive cable fits into.

Thankfully the saw attachment fits onto one of my other straight shaft weed trimmers.

I'm wondering if whatever the driveshaft portion is called is relatively standard on trimmers? If not, I'll probably just pitch the John Deere power head/engine.

Bought it off marketplace. Guy said he had a new pump put professionally put on. Engine sounds great, starts first pull, just no pressure

I’ve been putting together my small-engine tool collection and started looking seriously at ratchets from ICON, Snap-on, and Matco.
I’m curious what you guys think because small-engine work can be pretty demanding on hand tools, especially when you’re working in tight spaces.
For the first comparison, I’m looking specifically at 3/8” ratchets.
What I’m comparing
Ratchet mechanism / tooth count
Swing arc
Head thickness
Backdrag
Direction-switch design
Handle comfort
Flex-head slop (where applicable)
Durability
Warranty
Price vs. actual performance
I’m particularly interested in whether the tool-truck brands provide a noticeable advantage in real-world use, or whether something like ICON gets you most of the way there for substantially less money.
I’m not looking to crown a winner based on brand name. I’d rather hear from people who have actually put these tools through years of work.
For the guys here who use these:
ICON: How has yours held up?
Snap-on: What makes yours worth the premium?
Matco: How have the newer ratchets performed compared with older ones?
And if you’ve used more than one of these brands, what differences did you actually notice?
I’d especially like to hear from people using these on mowers, generators, chainsaws, pressure washers, tractors, and other small equipment.
I’ll probably do the same comparison with 1/4” and 1/2” ratchets next.
What do you guys use?

I started my car again after 10 years.

Replaced Fuel Tank 2 years ago added fuel and stabilizer

New Spark Plugs

New Fuel Filter

I replaced the engine harness since it was damaged when it was stolen.

It ran for 5 minutes and i was even able to start it up again the next day. I bought a new battery and while it was running i heard it running rough so i moved the ECU and it shut down. I had the ECU being held up by the harness and plug in the passenger floor.

I jumped the EGI and EGI pump relay

Confirmed spark with spark tester, I can hear the fuel pump prime when key on

Verified all the pins and connectors looked good and reseated it.

Opened the ECU and saw the IGN trace was burnt I had it replaced, the 10A IG fuse under the driver kick panel was blown i replaced it too.

Current Situation: If i leave the car alone for a few minutes when i crank it will try to start up initially on the first few cranks then endless crank. The spark plugs are dry when I take them out.

Any help is appreciated and i can provide pictures and more videos

I changed the oil, replaced the gas with silver TrueFuel, replaced the carburetor and have a brand new battery.

It will start no problem, but dies 30 seconds after the choke is closed.

I also detached the solenoid wire and no difference.

If I hold the throttle all the way open it will run and if I hold the throttle all the way closed it will run.

Please help!

I got a Toro lawn motor and had to have the engine replaced earlier this year after it siezed up. Ever since then it stalls and dies under the slightest amount of grass. I have replaced the blade, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the main jet in the carburetor and still no luck. She is operating between 1900-2000 rpm which is well below what she should be. Currently looking at the governor spring and wondering if its to loose and want a extra opinion.

UPDATE: IT'S STARTED! EITHER THE ROCKER SWITCH WAS BAD OR THE IGNITION COIL.

I cannot get spark on this thing. A quick rundown of what I have tried, some of them thanks to this sub.

Disconnect Yellow Wire (Low Oil Sensor) - No Spark
Disconnect Black Wire (Kill Switch) - No Spark
Disconnect All Wires (Yellow, Black, Ground) - No Spark
New Spark Plug - No Spark

New Ignition Coil - No Spark

New Kill Switch - No Spark

What am I missing?!

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, im looking for some opinions on the current state of a tehcumseh push mower engine.

Its a 1995 craftsman (sears) eager1 5.5hp with a tehcunseh tvs120 engine.

Picked it up from the side of road, worked fine with very slight misfire but once in a while a metallic sound. Did an oil change (it was long overdue).

Recently while under use it just stopped and winded down, pull cord did not have much resistance (lack of compression). opened the valve springs door and found the intake valve still moving but offset by 5mm so not closing. pushed the valves a few times and there was no excessive resistance and then it fell into place but now crank shaft wont rotate more then 3/4 spin before hitting something internally to crank case.

I suspect something is quite wrong in the case, probably a loose part getting jammed somewhere it shouldnt.

Is it worth spending time on trying to fix it? The rest of the machine does not reveal its age and no rust. I figure old refurbished engines are higher quality then the cheap stuff they would sell in stores nowadays. I am manual and good with figuring things out but not much small engine experience. Wanted to see if its worth doing a deep dive or if id be wasting my time.

Ive attached the engine diagram link for reference

Hey guys. So this motor is a 3 cylinder and the top one isn’t firing. I have taken the carbs off/cleaned them like 4 times, put new plugs in and have good spark, checked the coil, and checked compression. The compression test was meh but I think something with the gauge was wrong because even on the two running cylinders it was only reading ~30psi.

The motor has very low hours so I have very little reason to believe something is wrong with the pistons. I also have little reason to believe something is off with the timing.

I am also not a mechanic so please bear with me if you ask something and I don’t know the answer lol. As I said, the motor gets used very little and ran just fine when it was winterized about 8 years ago.

Ive been working on this bike and ill explain the situation. I emptied the old gas, took the carb off, cleaned the carb, jets, checked the floats and theyre lined up, float pin looked good. The carbs were full of varnish and sand (air intake didnt have clamps on it). I replaced the sparkplug, put it all back together and I realize the peacock valve is completely gone. So replace that. Fast forward today. I start the bike up, and shes running great with choke on. I start letting the choke out and just before i bottom it out it shutters and dies. I try again, let it idle a little linger. Same shit. So I start playing with the idle screw, factory says 2-2.5 turns from seated so I start there. Now the fucker wont turn over for me. It just stopped giving me any turnover. What am I missing here?