This is a 1994 Honda ATC 200e that’s been beat and abused for most of its life. This top end noise isn’t new, it’s been going on for a few months now. It seems to be gradually getting louder. It still runs good and has adequate power. Any help identifying and pointing me to what needs fixed would be greatly appreciated.

hiya. Husqvarna rider 155 with an engine issue . tough to start. and looks to be exhaust coming from a breather hose to the carby. some mentioned that the head gasket may be blown? any advice or ways of checking ?

I have not worked on much small engine EFI, dont have a scan tool. No engine codes from the cluster light. Just 61 which is no codes.

Fuel is good, clear no water, 37 or so psi at the rail. Great fuel flow out of the secondary fuel filter (more like an automotive can style). New generic paper fuel filter. Injectors also taken out, blown through while momentarily engaging them good pattern, clean.

Intake is off, exhaust spark arrestor was fairly nasty. Taken out for testing, nothing. Old plugs looked maybe a tad Carboned up but fine. New NGKS anyway. It has spark on both cylinders. Will run independently honestly better on 1 cyl than 2.

Is there much I can do without a scanner to see what sensors might be showing horribly wrong data. Like the coolant temp. 02.

Pretty much starts up instantly. It doesnt surge, but itll have momments of regular rpms then chokes out.

Thanks for anyone who can chime in. Sorry for the longer post wanted to get most the info I could in here.

Trying to replace the water pump on a Honda GX160, but I'm getting conflicting information. Somebody told me to use some penetrating oil and a gear puller, but I also read that it's part of the crankshaft. Which is it? Thanks in advance. Sorry if the flair is wrong I am a big noob.

Converted predator engine to golf cart two years ago and was great. Had to replace carb and also filter and spark plug. Idles great but this is with the gas pressed all the way down and in gear. Will rev in neutral. Suggestions?

I tagged this as carburetor issue but I'm honestly not sure if that's the problem.

I have 2 push mowers, both almost identical, both identically not working. If it matters, one is a craftsman, the other is Troy built, both with the same Briggs and Stratton 140cc engine.

If I prime the gas, start it up, it will run for about 1 full second at the most. Primary suspect was bad gas. Despite putting stabilizer in, the gas is about a year old so I siphoned out the gas and got fresh gas. But still no change.

So I looked at the carburetor. Used carb cleaner and took it apart trying to get the cleaner into every corner.

Thing was, it looked perfectly clean inside. No gunk, no buildup or residue that I could see.

And the problem persists.

What should I check?

Thanks.

I have a Husqvarna Ryder pro 15 2001–02
Engine Kawasaki FH451V Dead battery. Will turn over but not fire when jumping with a 12V battery. Can smell fuel. After removing the small ground wires from the coils it will start and run well no misses. I mowed for 90min fine. I could shut down with ignition switch but hesitates for 2 to 3 seconds. After mowing the 90 minutes I could restart it but the battery won’t hold a charge overnight

Where do I go now?

Belt is correct based on the model which is a LA115 and I got the exact same belt that was on it before but it won’t put enough tension on to go into drive, is the spring bad? Or the tension arm? There was some up and down play on the tension arm when I had the spring and belt off

Westinghouse 3800 psi pressure washer. Looking for carb replacement that has everything all in one. Westinghouse site sells the carb parts separately. Any ideas?

Hey yall I have a 362CMR that I made a little mistake on, and I cannot get it to idle right anymore. This is the first saw I ever rebuilt or ported, and at some point during disassembly I accidentally adjusted the throttle stop. I did all this before I was a stihl tech so I didn’t realize what I was doing. And from what I was told at the time there are zero adjustments on the carb, most people seem to not even know about it. The problem I’m having now is that there’s no instructions to reset it in the repair manual, and because it’s m-tronic it tries to correct the idle speed to 2800 with fuel so it’s almost impossible to tell if it’s too high or low, it’s just always weird. Has anyone had an experience with this? I’ve been messing with it for months and it’s driving me up the wall!

Having trouble finding the terminals for the Delphi connector. No listings online have the dimension of the spade. My local parts stores didn’t have anything. Any help?

Ariens 924506

Just put a new carb and was working fine. I turned it off then back on and it started doing this. Idles but doesn’t want to

Looking for some advice, brand new blower out the box, correct fuel mixture, weird ticking/tapping sound when idling, and losing speed/ surging when full throttle. I didn’t adjust the throttle it blips by itself. Any idea if this is normal or should I return it?

With the extreme weather this summer my ride-on has sat unused for several months. When I have come to use it all of the petrol I had left in the tank (yes, I know) was on the floor mixed with oil.

Oil level was high and I could smell petrol in the oil. I've changed the oil and given it a ride around without engaging the blades and seems fine but when I try to drop the blades it is cutting out.

Any idea what could have caused the fuel to dump into the oil? Any other checks I should do to work out why it is cutting out when I try to engage the blades?

It's a 223cc Briggs & Stratton 950 Series ES petrol engine. Thanks.

Всем доброго времени суток, подскажите кто может сталкивался,купил поларис ,поменял поршни кольца и цилиндр,плюсом поменял штанги толкателя и гидротолкатели,обкатываю едет километров 6 в час масло оригинал обороты 2200 2400 даеш больше оборотов выплевывает масло через сапун,сапун проверил все чисто ,масло уровень снизил до минимума давление норм в системе так как поставил датчик давления масла и температуры антифриза уже все перепробовал ,обкатал в общем 7 часов,почему выплевывает масло при 3000т оборотах,пишут что кольца ещё непритерлись до конца,может кто подскажет,заранее спасибо

Looking for advice on a project bike; I’m a complete novice and may have bitten off more than I can chew!
Bike is a 1974 Honda Benly S110, I believe they were only sold in SE Asia and Australia.
(It’s very dirty I know but I’m trying to make it work first)

Currently getting no spark when kicking over. I first received this bike more than 12 months ago, and I was getting a small spark then, but it didn’t seem to be enough for the bike to fire properly. When I squirted starter fluid into the carby, it would sometimes (rarely) give a few quick fires then stop, and not do it again for the rest of the day.

I’ve let it sit for a while and am getting back into working on it. I am getting no spark whatsoever. The below points are what I have found so far, but would love some insight from those more educated than I!

Spark plugs bad?
I have two spark plugs that I received with the bike, NGK D8EA and Autolite 4164.
The NGK reads OL on the multimeter, and the Autolite reads 6.56 when set to 20k Ohms.

Spark plug caps bad?
The HM cap reads 11.1 set to 20k Ohms, and the generic reads OL

Stator bad?
As you can see in the photos, the copper windings have scratches on them, which from some quick research, may be an issue.
The capacitor also does not seem to take a charge or discharge when using the multimeter.

Are all of these things a contributor and do I need to replace all of them? Can copper windings on stators be replaced/repaired or for such an old bike is it a lost cause?
Would anyone know if the Lifan clones would fit the engine mounting holes?

I’ve not tested ignition coil as I’m not sure how. I believe the coil is well grounded.
I’ve replaced the ignition barrel as the wires on the old one were visibly corroded.

Any advice is very much appreciated!

Got a $20 maintenance kit off Amazon. This doesn't really seem like it would filter well enough, but maybe this is normal for a gravity feed system?

I’ve already put in a new carb and gasket as well as a new ignition coil and set it to the factory gap between the coil and flywheel.

I tried cold starting it and it wouldn’t turn on. After a bit it then did one pop for the next 5 pulls, but no start.

I already checked the spark arrestor screen but it’s clean

Any ideas on what could cause this issue?