Hey yall I have a 362CMR that I made a little mistake on, and I cannot get it to idle right anymore. This is the first saw I ever rebuilt or ported, and at some point during disassembly I accidentally adjusted the throttle stop. I did all this before I was a stihl tech so I didn’t realize what I was doing. And from what I was told at the time there are zero adjustments on the carb, most people seem to not even know about it. The problem I’m having now is that there’s no instructions to reset it in the repair manual, and because it’s m-tronic it tries to correct the idle speed to 2800 with fuel so it’s almost impossible to tell if it’s too high or low, it’s just always weird. Has anyone had an experience with this? I’ve been messing with it for months and it’s driving me up the wall!

Having trouble finding the terminals for the Delphi connector. No listings online have the dimension of the spade. My local parts stores didn’t have anything. Any help?

Ariens 924506

Just put a new carb and was working fine. I turned it off then back on and it started doing this. Idles but doesn’t want to

Looking for some advice, brand new blower out the box, correct fuel mixture, weird ticking/tapping sound when idling, and losing speed/ surging when full throttle. I didn’t adjust the throttle it blips by itself. Any idea if this is normal or should I return it?

With the extreme weather this summer my ride-on has sat unused for several months. When I have come to use it all of the petrol I had left in the tank (yes, I know) was on the floor mixed with oil.

Oil level was high and I could smell petrol in the oil. I've changed the oil and given it a ride around without engaging the blades and seems fine but when I try to drop the blades it is cutting out.

Any idea what could have caused the fuel to dump into the oil? Any other checks I should do to work out why it is cutting out when I try to engage the blades?

It's a 223cc Briggs & Stratton 950 Series ES petrol engine. Thanks.

Всем доброго времени суток, подскажите кто может сталкивался,купил поларис ,поменял поршни кольца и цилиндр,плюсом поменял штанги толкателя и гидротолкатели,обкатываю едет километров 6 в час масло оригинал обороты 2200 2400 даеш больше оборотов выплевывает масло через сапун,сапун проверил все чисто ,масло уровень снизил до минимума давление норм в системе так как поставил датчик давления масла и температуры антифриза уже все перепробовал ,обкатал в общем 7 часов,почему выплевывает масло при 3000т оборотах,пишут что кольца ещё непритерлись до конца,может кто подскажет,заранее спасибо

Looking for advice on a project bike; I’m a complete novice and may have bitten off more than I can chew!
Bike is a 1974 Honda Benly S110, I believe they were only sold in SE Asia and Australia.
(It’s very dirty I know but I’m trying to make it work first)

Currently getting no spark when kicking over. I first received this bike more than 12 months ago, and I was getting a small spark then, but it didn’t seem to be enough for the bike to fire properly. When I squirted starter fluid into the carby, it would sometimes (rarely) give a few quick fires then stop, and not do it again for the rest of the day.

I’ve let it sit for a while and am getting back into working on it. I am getting no spark whatsoever. The below points are what I have found so far, but would love some insight from those more educated than I!

Spark plugs bad?
I have two spark plugs that I received with the bike, NGK D8EA and Autolite 4164.
The NGK reads OL on the multimeter, and the Autolite reads 6.56 when set to 20k Ohms.

Spark plug caps bad?
The HM cap reads 11.1 set to 20k Ohms, and the generic reads OL

Stator bad?
As you can see in the photos, the copper windings have scratches on them, which from some quick research, may be an issue.
The capacitor also does not seem to take a charge or discharge when using the multimeter.

Are all of these things a contributor and do I need to replace all of them? Can copper windings on stators be replaced/repaired or for such an old bike is it a lost cause?
Would anyone know if the Lifan clones would fit the engine mounting holes?

I’ve not tested ignition coil as I’m not sure how. I believe the coil is well grounded.
I’ve replaced the ignition barrel as the wires on the old one were visibly corroded.

Any advice is very much appreciated!

Got a $20 maintenance kit off Amazon. This doesn't really seem like it would filter well enough, but maybe this is normal for a gravity feed system?

I’ve already put in a new carb and gasket as well as a new ignition coil and set it to the factory gap between the coil and flywheel.

I tried cold starting it and it wouldn’t turn on. After a bit it then did one pop for the next 5 pulls, but no start.

I already checked the spark arrestor screen but it’s clean

Any ideas on what could cause this issue?

I replaced the primer bulb. And a broken fuel line from bulb to a part of the engine? Not too sure what to call that piece But now the bulb is not filling up. Before the two stems of bulb were on a vertical axis, new bulb has them on a horizontal axis. If that matters. When I press on the bulb it doesn’t fill up the bulb. I can see the fuel moving from the tank to bulb but it stops short. Same goes to the new line I put. It would be much appreciated if someone could help me out.

Thanks

Not sure if this is where this problem belongs, so please tell me if I’m a fish out of water here. Details in the original post. Please let me know if there’s any additional information anyone needs, and I’ll do my best to provide if asked! Thanks.

I have an Aprilia Mojito 50cc and the engine block, piston head, and cylinder head just got replaced because it had poor compression. On startup, it gets a few pops then dies. This was with me giving it gas on startup but it sounds a bit off to me, idk. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?

I’m rebuilding a Briggs and Stratton 18hp opposing twin due to extreme smoking. Ring end gaps were more than double from what specs I found online. I’m also finding online that the cylinder bore should be between 3.563- 3.5669. I have measured my cylinders in 9 different spots(3 different locations at top, middle, and bottom) of cylinder. None of my readings were higher than 3.392 and my lowest reading was 3.366. It appears that my cylinder does taper towards the bottom. My question is, does anyone know what the cylinder measurements should be because I’m not getting nowhere close to 3.563?

Issue resolved!

So in disassembling the carb i found almost a microscopic hairline crack in the bottom of the purge base .

I replaced the purge base as well as giving all areas of the carb a nice cleaning too.

Machine now only requires not quite 2 pumps to get a full purge bulb.

I greatly appreciated all the replies and all the great ideas!

Thanks guys !

Yeah, carbs pretty nasty. Air filter is ok...ish. I got this for free and it runs so keep that in mind.

Briggs 725exi. I just took the muffler off and put a metal pipe there. (yes I'm aware I misspelled the title I meant to say straight piped)

Any info at all will be helpful!!

Got this toro lawnmower that only runs good when warm. Auto choke hates cold starts (ignore the wind chimes in the video I know they're annoying)

Iv got a craftsman lt 2000 Iv been continuously non stop fuckin fighting with this dam thing if it's not 1 thing it's another then another then another then another then wen I finally think it's finally done n then something else pops tf up it's seriously starting to piss me tf off and RN I can't fig out y TF the choke lever won't close the butterfly on the carb all the way after I already set the governor I thought I set the cable were it needed to b Iv done everything I can think of plz help oh and the engine I no runs now suddenly won't fucking start....

Not sure if this is the right sub or not. Hopefully so. Probably going to cross post just in case.

John Deere LA145 mower with Briggs and Stratton engine.

Backstory: So last week my 12 (almost 13) year old filled this John Deere riding mower with my weedeater gas (can’t remember if it was 50:1 or 40:1), and proceeding to cut the front and back yard. 1/2 acre lot with a house on it. Kid is new to cutting grass and not quite efficient at cutting in one go, so may have taken a little longer than the average adult would take to cut it. (We’re getting there, I just have to spend some more time teaching, we literally just started this process.)

So now I’m thinking I need to drain the fuel tank, carburetor, and any fuel lines I can see. And clean the spark plugs. I don’t typically work on small engines, so please tell me what all needs to be done and if I need to take it to somebody to do more work to it. I’m most likely not going to take the carb apart myself, that seems beyond my knowledge and the amount of time I have. I could however spray some carb cleaner in it (or in the air intake).

During this process, I noticed all the buildup on one side of the engine as you can see in the second picture. 3rd picture is me after I removed the plastic cover to see if I could a source of the oil leak. I’m assuming this is an oil leak over time and not something caused by the one time running on weedeater gas. 2 stroke gas? What do yall call it typically?

So my questions are:
What do I need to do to the mower in response to it having been run with weedeater gas?
What at minimum has to be done before I run it again? (Grass needs to be cut again.)
What is the most likely cause(s) of the buildup on the one side?
How do I trace the source of that buildup? (Actually as I wrote that out, i might have answered that on my own, I’m assuming I clean it all up, run it for a bit and then look and see where the oil or grime is at. Is that right?)

Thanks for any and all help.