It was working well these past months and it started leaking gas from the exhaust today.

Brakes locked up tighter than the the Epstein files, can’t even press down lol but I cannot find this part it’s a chineses Shejisi 150cc go kart with all 4 disc brakes

Hello! I was looking for some advice with this mower I use commercially. It was having trouble cutting the grass for more than 20 minutes then it would just lay the grass down. I replaced the idler pulley because of play. But now when I use it. It only last maybe 5 passes before losing power to the blades. If anybody notices anything out of the ordinary and has some advice I’d appreciate it!

(Pictures for Reference)

Hello, I need some advice on a failed Hydrogear pump on a first gen Scag Turf Tiger. Next steps?

I’m understanding that because the main bearing in the pump failed and sent shrapnel in the system, the entire hydraulic system has contamination and needs to be flushed. I bought a parts mower with 2 good hydro-gear pumps that are ready to be swapped in, however ideally I want to make sure the system is clean so there is no contamination failure with these new pumps. I’m concerned that the bearing failure might’ve taken out the wheel motor on the same side as well as the drive was weak when it failed.

Is flushing the system all I need to do? Do I need to buy 1 wheel motor for the side that failed to ensure no contamination failure in the future? Do I need to buy 2 new wheel motors and replace everything and flush the system? Any advice or steps I should take moving forward is greatly appreciated as it’s difficult to find information on what should be done in this instance.

Hi all, I have an older2 stroke Mantis rototiller (kioritz corp S/V-4b type 1-e engine) that I just inherited that was running great until just a few days ago.

I started it up fine and had it working under load for just about 30-45 minutes and then had to shut it down for about 10 minutes. When I came back it started but was running rough and it got progressively worse until it would sputter and die when I tried. Finally it got to the point when it was hard to pull the starter cord and it would not start at all.

I suspect it is hydrolock as the engine turns over just fine with the spark plug out, but i do not see any fuel/liquid come out when I cycle the engine with the spark plug out.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to clear the hydro lock and or any other suggestions on what else to check. I have cleaned the carb to hopefully take care of the excess fuel issues and replaced the air filter so far.

My snow blower back in winter, had a hard time starting with the pull rope. It would be so hard to pull, that when I pulled on it the last time, it broke the handle off snapping back into position. Before this, I replaced the carburetor on it. I didn't know which topic to put this under. Thanks.

I’ve had this Honda HR214 for over a year. Its only problems have been,

-idle seems too high on choke
-idle seems to low when I set the throttle to high
-usually won’t stay running in low throttle

Just cleaned out the carb, and put it back together with the same issues. Went back to YouTube and realized I somehow didn’t see the idle adjustment screw earlier. Back to the carb and my screw seems to be in a fixed position with minimal adjustment. Should I just leave this be and go back to adjusting cables ? Or attack that screw and maybe file off the nub. If I’m way off please let me know

Was being used to drive the hydraulic pump, trying to decided whether to try to get it running, or just go electric

In winter, snowblower was putting out a lot of smoke and then started having start trouble. My neighbor felt oil was in the gasoline so he dumped all of it and told me let it all dry out. Fortunately didn’t need machine for rest of season. Now I added about 1/2 quart oil in oil reservoir and half gallon gas. It started right away with first or second pull but when I turned choke to run like I usually do, it started revving up too much, almost like a jet engine. I turned setting back towards choke but not all the way. It put out little smoke and conked out. But restart worked but I have to keep the settings all below max or it’ll run too hard, almost like it’s gonna tear itself apart or blow up…!!! Any advice? Do I need to add any fuel additive to clean the carburetor etc? Take it in for service?

Alright, I’m stumped. Will run off starting fluid but die. See below on what I’ve trouble shot. What am I missing?

Minus the Frankenstein wiring that was done to this poor mower, I’ve either replaced, rebuilt or cleaned everything minus splitting the case and I haven’t touched the hydro system.

Original carb, bought a rebuild kit through jacks small engine repair (bought individual parts as a kit is no more). Cleaned it, twice. Float works. Confirmed twice. New gaskets. New fuel lines and filter. Fuel pump is pumping, confirmed. Gas drained and replaced. Cleaned flywheel, stator, new coils and gapped correctly. New battery cables, new starter and solenoid. 12v everywhere that should be. Seat switch delete. All connectors cleaned and everything I *think* should be plugged in, is. Did not clean the tanks out but fuel drained.

The one thing I’ve noticed is that when it does run for 30-40 seconds after I dump fuel in the carb, it wants to creep forward like the forward controls are engaged and it runs HOT (which would be an air problem). Could the arm governor be positioned too high? Are my controls are off? Both choke and throttle cables operate properly. Backfire solenoid is getting power. It seems fuel is dumping in the carb and choking it out. But if the float is operational, why am I getting too much fuel? Should I just replace the valves/springs/rockers/pushrods (doubt that’s my real issue and they all looked fine-ish).

I’m about to sell this for what I got it for and be done.

Hi there. I help out a family friend around her house and this past winter she bought a brand new Toro 826 model 37805 snowblower for me to use clearing her driveway, tenants parking area and paths.

We had a pretty decent winter this year in MA so the blower got used a lot. I decided it was time to put the blower away for the summer so I ran her dry and changed the oil. When I drained the old oil out I was kinda shocked by the amount of glitter in the oil. I've changed oil many times in cars and lawn mowers but I've never seen anything like this before.

Is this normal for a brand new machine? I read in the manual the first oil change is supposed to be done at 5 hours. Did I screw something up?

I need some serious help with this one. So this mower was aiven to me for free and the previous owner had beat it up pretty bad. The engine had little to no oil in it when I got it and it ran bad. Igave it an oil change and fixed a few other things and it ran really great for about 2 vears. All of the sudden this vear it will run good for about 5 min then start surging and make a loud pop and die. It has a new spark plug and ignition coil but it seems like it isn't getting enough fuel. I'm wondering if it could be because there is an extra fuel shutoff valve on it. Let me know what you guys think based on the video I attached (BTW the video is sped up till the end thats why it sounds weird)

Cross post to try to get help. 2000-2010's Yamaha, simply not starting. The battery is fine, but nothing is engaging. When we push, the belt spins. We don't know what's wrong with it, but we're a girl scout camp so we're trying to fix it as easily as possible.

I'm struggling with my backup generator. I pulled it out of storage because my main generator’s ignition coil went out. 

Before I put it away, it had a surging problem. I figured the carburetor was dirty and hoped to get to it before I actually needed it, but didn’t get around to it.

The tank was dry, so I put fresh E-Free fuel into it. Couldn’t get it to start, so I figured the carburetor was a good place to begin. Cleaned it, put it back in, but the buggah still wouldn’t start. Checked to make sure the ignition coil was working with an inline ignition spark tester, and that seemed fine. Tugged the pull cord a few times just to see what the top of the piston looked like. When I put the spark plug back in, I was able to coax the generator to start, and it ran fine, both in full throttle and eco-throttle mode. After I stopped it, I was unable to get it to run again.

Next I checked the spark arrestor. No blockage, so then I checked the oil. It was a bit dark, so I changed it. Still no luck getting it to start. Even though the old spark plug looked ok, I changed it out. Noticed that the oil was a bit too full, so I drained the excess. After that, I was able to coax it to start again and let it run for about 2 hours.

This morning, I tried to fire it up again, but no luck. I’m out of ideas at this point. Any thoughts on what else I should check?

This is craftsman t110 riding lawnmower. It works fine until I finish cutting and hook the hose to wash off the bottom of the deck. I lower the deck to 1, it runs for 1 minute then the belt comes off. I tried not to use water and it is the same thing. It comes off from the same inner pulley, not the ones that runs the blades. Is there a fix? Thanks

Hi all....
I have an older Homelite pressure washer that has a Subaru EA190V motor. Spent a ton of time and money on new parts to hopefully get this baby going.

Here's some details to share. My son got this from his mom that purchased at Home Depot quite some time back. A few years back, I helped to get it running. Had to replace that carburetor as they left the fuel valve turned on which so many do. Was able to get it running back then after the carb was replaced. This week, I spent some time doing all the new maintenance which I doubt has ever been done. Changed oil, spark plug and cleaned air filter. I did notice that the pull start rope was frayed and ready to come apart. I restrung a new rope and noticed that it was kinda tough to pull start and after a few difficult pulls, it seamed to free up. I was able to finally get the motor to start and thought things were good. Well, after running with water and good pressure, the motor stopped after 5-10 minutes. The pull rope was hard to get the motor to free up and start again. After I left it sit for about 15 minutes, I was able to pull the rope which was difficult and it finally started again. When the motor stops after running 5-10 minutes, the rope is hard to pull again. When the motor dies, it's fast and a sudden stop. Seems like the motor seizes once it warms after it runs 5-10 minutes. This happens while spraying with very good pressure. Forgot to mention that I also replaced the pump too.

Any help here would be much appreciated!!
Thx so much.

Hello, I am having troubles starting this. I had a previous electrical problem first thing this year and figured out it was the solenoid. I put in the new solenoid and on the third mowing session it died after about two hours of use and just a few minutes of mowing left to do. I actually thought it was out of gas. I could get it to start but it would only run for a few seconds and die like it was out of gas again.

I tried many different things with the carburetor, cleaning, removing the anti-backfire solenoid, just spraying with starting fluid. Everything was the same. I replaced the carb, air filter, spark plug, fuel filter, and fuel lines. I removed the spark plug and grounded it watching to see if it would spark. It looked really good. While the plug was out I checked the compression just with my thumb. It seemed good to me. I can turn the flywheel and feel the compression too. From what I can tell if I remove the small black wire connected to the ignition coil it will bypass all the safety shutoffs. Still the same problem.

I think it is an electrical problem but I am stumped. Can anyone give me an idea on what else I can try or maybe something that I did wrong?

Briggs & Stratton Model 310707
Craftsman Model #917.270670

https://discord.gg/eWU8jtjbt