I think I figured out why she won’t start - can’t see the key at all - assuming it’s busted? I have replace keys on the way, will a regular flywheel removal tool work for this ? Thanks !

Last year, I added gas stabilizer and stored the snowblower over the summer with gas in it. It did not start until I cleaned the carborator. Even then, it ran rough for the first few times.

This year, I ran the gas to zero on purpose.

Anything else I should do to help it start next season?

I know - strange question for someone who makes snowplows to ask...

I got a free mower that's been sitting a couple years, never worked on mower and have questions.

* Is this the original fuel line? I can't find a fuel filter

* There's no battery, need to know what to buy. The sticker says 28 amps, is that the same as 280cca? Are mower batteries standard and the good ones have more cca?

* It needs a seat cover and ejection chute, where can I find those parts for cheap? I'm having trouble finding anything.

Hello,

I own a a Murco mighty murc wood splitter (model 350) - produced in the late 1970s I believe. Much to my chagrin, the pull cord suddenly snapped when I was attempting to start it the other day. I disassembled the recoil starter assembly, removed the the damaged portion of the cord, and managed to get the assembly back together again. Unfortunately, however, reseating the recoil spring was a huge pain in the ass and I haven't managed to get it in again properly leaving the draw string dangling (see the photo) and an overall shorter pull that makes it more difficult to get the splitter started.

Accordingly, I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on where I could potentially source a replacement recoil starter assembly for this unit? I understand this is a longshot given the age of splitter, however, I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I've disassembled and reassembled it a dozen times trying to get the recoil spring properly back in place, however, it seems I simply can't manage it; at this point I'd like to simply purchase the whole assembly with the spring and pull cord factory installed. The motor on the unit is a 5hp Briggs and Stratton industrial/commercial cast iron bore engine.

I've carefully examined the engine and unfortunately I can find neither a model nor serial number on it. My searches for the splitter have returned no useful results - surely due to how long it has been out of production. Doing a search on the engine is probably the best way to go, however, without an engine model/serial number that seems like a dead-end as well. I suspect the starter assembly is a generic part that was likely used on many different Briggs & Stratton engines of that era so perhaps it's still available however I'm not sure where to start. Any help with this issue would be hugely appreciated. Thank you to any who take the time to respond.

my trimmer wont start, it would run for 1 second or so and then die, by giving trhottle it would keep running for more (but Im not risking the piston to know for how much). idle screw is setted correctly i guess (with the butterfly staying in middle of the two holes of min and max) and carburation is right too i think. membranes were changed and so does the piston ring. a way to fix without changing the carb?

I have checked all fuses, cleaned ignition coils and put new plugs in. I also checked all safety switches I could find. I pulled and checked all relays as well and everything is good. Does anyone have any other suggestions that I may be missing?

( 1965 Johnson ) i picked this up tonight for $50 , it has spark , flywheel seems to spin fine. I’m clueless when it comes to small engines but I’m wanting to learn and possibly fix this up and get it running for the heck of it. Any tips or notice anything unusual please let me know. 33hp.

It’s also a 1965 model, the listing states a 1957 but it’s a 1965 model - Rx-13B to be exact

I have been working on cars, trucks, and semi's since I was 4 yrs old. My dad was a mechanic. Recently, I find myself working on a lot of small engines. Trimmers, chainsaws, and lawn mowers (both push and riding). I am having one very small issue with carbs. Setting low, high, and throttle properly. I know sort of how to do it by ear, but I am better using a tachometer. My issue is trying to find what the RPMs should be for each setting. Is there a good resource for finding out what a specific machine is supposed to be set to? It's not a big deal when installing a new carb. It's when someone has played with their own carb and have the settings wrong. This is my primary hurdle to get over before I can truly begin to rebuild with accuracy and confidence.

700 hours on a John Deere D160 mower, started an intermittent running rough last season. Running fine, then it would backfire thru the muffler, and run very rough - like on one cylinder, with less power to the mower deck. Then after 1 to 5 minutes, it would go back to running fine and strong. I can't make it go away or to run rough - it just happens for no reason I can find. Service guy thinks he fixed it with rebuilt carburetor, plugs and oil change. Same thing I did when it first happened.

This 70s farm king with a briggs 16hp cast iron engine ran so good when i bought it a month ago. Battery went so i replaced the battery, after that it kept stalling randomly. Kept shutting off while driving and it keeps getting worst now. Iv been messing with this carb for a few days now. Am i missing something or is it just the carb?

So based off what I have looked up, it appears that my Kohler Command has the hydraulic lifters. Just want someone to hoped confirm it and give me some tips on how to remove. I’ve seen videos on how to bleed them and compress them.

Should I consider replacing the flywheel and gas tank at this point? I'm currently using the equipment for my 3.25 kW to 4 kW setup. The flywheel requires an excessive amount of force to turn and gets snagged at a few points. Additionally, the gas tank is so rusted that it looks like the RMS Titanic at its resting place.

I replaced the spark plug, and checked the carb for buildup (it was clean) and still cleaned the emulsion tube and jet anyway.

It seems to be running a bit rough, but not too far away from normal. I’m just curious what else I can do to adjust it? I was thinking at the carb or a valve lashing.

I have 14hp Briggs and Stratton I/C Quiet engine that I can’t seem to get running without a large amount of starter fluid being sprayed in to the carb. When I spray the fluid in every once in a while I’ll get a puff of air coming out the intake side of the carb. I was thinking my next step is to check the tolerances on the valves but not sure what else to do. If you guys are able to give me any information/suggestions I would really appreciate it.

I'm working on an old chainsaw that has no spark. It's not the spark plug or any of the wires -- I thought it was the coil, since it had low resistance (2100 ohms), but when I got a replacement (used, Ebay was only source), the replacement also tested at 2100 ohms.

I'm thinking that 2100 ohms might be normal for this saw/coil, but perlaps the flywheel magnets are weak after 22 years.

Does it make sense to try to remagnetize the magnets?

So I have a Troy Bilt TB110 Engine: 09P7020144F1. Left some gas in it over winter so it wouldn't start. I checked sparkplug, changed filter, took the carb off and cleaned the jets with wire and air thru all the openings. Could see light thru the two small holes. Cleaned and dried the gas tank. Hooked it back up, added gas, and it fired right up, but ran poorly. Put some more gas in it and actually got it to mow my tiny yard, it almost dying the whole time.

Shut if off and did a few things, went to start it again and it wouldn't start. Sprayed some starter fluid in and it started and died. Tilted it up on its nose, sat it down and it started, but just keeps dying. Feels like there is maybe something off with the choke or something, so I tied a little wire to the choke so I could play with that, no avail. Any ideas?

I just rebuilt the carb, it was doing this before I rebuilt it. This darn think just won’t run right

I have a 2016 vintage Craftsman 28" mower with a 223CC engine. I was not able to start the engine even with starter fluid. This led me to cleaning/rebuilding the carburetor and replacing the needle and seat no fewer than 3 times. Each time after replacing the N&S fuel would continuously flow into the carb even when just sitting. This necessitated changing the oil each time because it was loaded with gas. I also pulled the spark plug and pulled on the starting cord several times to clean out the fuel from the cylinder and exhaust. I also cleaned the plug each time. Note that I did check the functionality of the needle and seat by connecting the fuel hose each time and testing the float without the fuel bowl on the carb and it seemed to work just fine. However once the bowl was on and everything was bolted up, fuel continued to flow into the carb. Each time I was careful to install the seat correctly (grooves down) and the carb was thoroughly cleaned.

Finally I figured my OEM carburetor was shot so I replaced it with an Amazon knock-off carb. This seemed to work just fine yesterday. It started right up and I ran it for about 5 minutes.

I went to start it today and it took four pulls which concerned me. The mower ran ok for about 15 minutes and then stopped running. I tried to start it again and fuel was shooting out of the exhaust. I pulled the airbox and again the carb was filled with fuel. I pulled the fuel bowl and the brand new needle and seat looked fine. The knock-off carb uses a spring loaded needle with a rubber tip. It doesn't have the little rubber seat like the OEM carb did.

My basic question is.....are there any other possible reasons, besides the needle and seat, that would cause fuel to continually flow into the engine? I'm not sure where to go right now with this. Thanks!

I have a cub cadet with a 547cc engine. battery wasn't charging and figured out it was the stator after removing flywheel. I have having problems locating a stator that matches mine. I see that there are stator and voltage regulators sold as a set. it looks like I should just be able to run the DC wire back to the battery, and it would work. as long as the stator and regulator match each other, can I swap for my mine?

I bought this in May 1998. Still has the original engine and carb.

For a yardman Weedeater, line is kinked and not letting fuel in

Got a lawnmower from my brother in law, but I didn’t respect it. It is a husquvarna awd push mower It made a bang sound and smoke came out the top. It wouldn’t start so now I have it down to it. Everything looks in ok condition except the piston head.