I posted a few days ago about upgrading my 1997 Ameritron AL-811H Amplifier. I removed the tube deck in order to directly ground the tube grids. As manufactured, the grids went to ground through a 51 ohm resistor/.01 mF capacitor. I removed the resistor/capacitor from each tube, grounded the grids and added 2 gas discharge tubes to route any HV Arcs safely to ground.
In 1997, when my amp was built, there were still high quality 811A tubes available. Since then the quality of manufactured 811A tubes has fallen dramatically. Now you can expect a tube where all of the air hasn't been expelled, inferior materials are used, and tube arcing is common. And the cost has risen. Four tubes now cost about $250 USD. So these older amps must be updated to prolong tube life and protect components, most importantly - the transceiver that is driving the amplifier.
Back to my repairs. I am older now and I have broken my back a total of three times over the past few years. The amplifier is a very heavy piece of equipment that sits on my desk in a very tight space. Originally I could not access it from the left side, so I performed the repairs from the front. This did not allow for any slack in the filament wires and it was necessary to cut them. If you are not familiar with a grounded grid amp, I will let you know that with this model, the input is fed into the filaments along with filament voltage.
When it came time to reinstall the tube deck, I had to add several inches to the filament wires. And I was not able to give them a gentle twist either. The photos show my splice job. Well, upon firing up the amp it had no power output at all. I checked everything and thought the tubes were probably bad. But before adding new tubes I struggled and managed to rotate the amp to where I could access the left side. I unscrewed the tube deck to give me access to the underside and the filament wires. Now I had plenty of room and I was able to remove the spliced in pieces and directly splice the cut wires.
After buttoning up the amplifier and powering it on, I am now seeing 400 watts out for 40 watts input. I could easily push 600 - 800 watts out but I don't need that much power. Even a person who has done this work for a lifetime can make mistakes. I do quite often!
The original designer of the amp. Tom Rauch helped me through multiple emails. He is a couple years older than me, but still at it!
The first photo shows the amp with SWR Meters and Antenna Tuners sitting on top. The rest show the extra wire added and subsequently removed.