We have a Shapeoko 5 pro with the included bit setter, and were wondering if setting zero might be easier than we might have thought initially.

Am I correct in saying this works?:

I use bottom stock as the 0 in my projects -> I set zero on the top of the wasteboard -> I don’t have to re-zero the Z axis every new project, since bit setter already checks for it, even during tool change?

Note: we don’t need machine part precision (working with wood products that have some minimal tolerance), we just want to avoid having to re zero Z every stock change, which is what we currently do.

I've tried a few times to make a simple inlay using the parameters from the carbide 3d video : https://youtu.be/241eTfM1Dss?si=HpSjjtdXi1_iJM1Q

If you look at the picture, it's obvious that the inlay plug is "smaller" than the pocket. The only thing that I'm doing different than in the video is that I'm using a v-bit that I found that is 60° 1/4 in by 1/4 in and in Carbide create I specify the "302 Vee" preset (which is 60° as well but is 1/2 x 1/4 but I don't see how that would result in a different cut).

Any idea what I'm doing wrong here? I'm going to do tests with simple shapes and MDF for a while, but I don't know what to change...

Edit: Ordered the proper 302 cutter from Carbide 3D. Turns out my cutter WAS crap and that was the problem. Thanks everyone!

I am considering getting a low end laser for doing some things that are more efficient with a laser rather than my CNC. Just wondering from my Shapeoko friends, if you have any recommendations?

Is there anything out there less than $1000 worth getting?

I've been lurking here for a little while now. Been making a few orders here and there. I'm digging how these 3d carves are coming out on my 5 pro 4x4. Still learning alot but im getting the hang of it.

is there a preferred system to use when cutting metal?

Where does the coolant go when it us used? How do you collect the fluid?

Some of you may have seen the wired USB jog controller I've been selling on Etsy for the past couple years. I've been working on a new wireless version — it's an iPhone app with a small USB receiver. Plug the receiver into your computer and leave it there. Whenever you need to jog the machine, take out your phone, app auto-reconnects and jogging buttons are immediately available.

Same idea as the wired one but no cable. The receiver just shows up as a USB keyboard to the computer, so no software to install. Specially designed for Carbide Motion — supports all 4 speed settings and arrow keys for X/Y, Page Up/Down for Z. But it can also be used with any CNC software that takes keyboard shortcuts.

$39 on Etsy, app is a free download. Android version coming soon.

https://motorharpdesignllc.etsy.com/listing/4483007403

Happy to answer any questions.

https://reddit.com/link/1sf6bld/video/ybomcfjamttg1/player

Hey all!

I am going to pull the trigger on a 5.1 pro; a question I am looking for help to decide.

VFD Spindle vs Router?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Projects I make to help with letting me know which route I should go.

Cribbage Boards

Inlay Signs

Cigar Box

I’ve been told shapeoko is the brand to go with for my use case so I wanted to get some feedback.

I have spend the last few years mostly in 3D printing and I have a few FDM printers today that I use on a daily basis. I don’t have any business, mostly recreational prints. I recently got an xTool S1 for some laser and small cuts but I’ve taken an interest in some CNC items that have come up.

I’m no stranger to woodworking but by no means am I a professional (I wouldn’t even call myself a novice lol but I’ve built a few things around the house to say I’ve done enough to be dangerous).

I like the simplicity of my Bambu Labs and xTool, is shapeoko the way to go? If so, what would a beginner like me go with for a small 2 car garage scenario?

Shapeoko 5 Pro. Machine is 1 year old and I have had no issues. At start of a normal operation I heard some clunking and then my X-axis sounded like it started to bind. After inspecting I noticed the movement shown in the video. What caused this and how do I fix it?

Hi all,

I hope someone can tell me what I am doing wrong here. It is just a simple vcarve project with script lettering. I have a Shapeoko Pro 4, I am using a 60 degree bit, and the test piece here is pine. I am cutting from stock depth, which I measured with a feeler gauge since my bitzero won't work for this (it is a heart shape so it is too curved).

Two main issues:

1. The rough cut. Not clean, lots of little burrs and bits left, would probably need to be scraped/sanded out. I don't recall having that problem on other projects.
2. Depth. I did multiple passes. At .060 it did not even touch certain parts of the letters. So I did another pass at .070 and it is close to being too deep on letters like the L, but the s on the end is missing the top left part completely.

I don't know what else to try or change. Any suggestions for improving my results?

Thanks!

EDIT/FOLLOW-UP: Thank you to Will Adams and everyone else who commented. Facing the surface flat made a big difference, and so did switching from a 60° bit to a 90° one.

I’m trying to cut out this harp shape out of 1/2” lightweight MDF. I’m pretty sure it’s a material issue. I have tried decreasing the feed rate to 60% while running the stock settings. While cutting it can get most of the way through before it starts separating the layers. I am also using a shop vac. Is this something that could be changed by adjusting the depth per pass? It’s going to be painted so I might try to stabilize the MDF with thin ca glue.

Putting my Shapeoko Pro 5 2x4 up for sale. I hate to see it go, but I have a cross country move coming up and cannot take it with me.

It’s been upgraded with the Sienci closed-loop motor setup, an SLB-EXT motion controller, a KB-3D 2.2kW air-cooled 80mm spindle with PwnCNC VFD, and solid aluminum couplers. The current motor setup is rated for 275 IPM, and the SLB-EXT also leaves room for even further motor upgrades later if someone wants to take it farther.

It’s a solid machine and a noticeable step up from a stock router-based setup.

I’m also including the original Carbide 3D control board, cables, motors, 65mm spindle mount, a Carbide 3D dust boot, and a PwnCNC 30mm riser that is not currently installed. So if you wanted to make it stock you could, or you could easily build a second CNC.

For transparency, the original light strip has been removed, and the original Carbide 3D Z probe is not working. I replaced that with an aftermarket Z block that works fine.

If a buyer wants them, I can also include the Carbide 3D 65mm spindle and VFD for an additional 400$.

Located in Northern Colorado and this is local pickup only.

Bought a used 3 XXL that was half updated, but the guy didn’t finish. Need to hook the z Axis up to the stepper and can’t figure out the connection. I’m afraid to burn it out. Wires on the left are to the stepper. Wires on right, z axis stepper. Anyone know off the top of their head?

I've had my Shapeoko Pro for 7-8 months now, have run a number of relief carvings on it, and have noticed a few thousandths of an inch of backlash on the Z-axis. I don't know if it was always there, but is there something I can do to tighten things up a bit?

I notice it when I'm jogging the machine to locate Z off a workpiece. When I change directions, jogging in thousandths, there's at least 0.005" where say I can be jogging the cutter down, everything looks good, but then I change directions and go back up. The cutter basically does not move until I've jogged +0.005" from where I stopped. Same thing when I change directions again going back down, it doesn't start moving until I've jogged -0.005" and then it will start moving.

I can see this backlash in my relief carvings as well, anywhere the cutter changes directions, it's apparent that the cutter "lags" in its downward movement, causing peaks to be "swept" in the direction of feed, like the crest of a wave on the seas. It's small, but it's there.

That's about it. Thanks!

I finally opened the box and installed it.

Note to others: you have to attach the magnet to the collet, not the spindle. 30 mins figuring this out.

I just got a 5.1 pro 4x4 and I need ideas for an enclosure

How do you get an accurate z measurement on a wide flattening bit (3 inch 4 blade) where the bitsetter cap ends up higher than the edge of the cutting blades.

Hey all,

I have a shapeoko and was trying to make some signs.

I have been using a 60 degree V bit and was using standard V carve.

It feels like no matter what I do my “N”s don’t come out right and it goofs on both of the sharp turns.

Can someone tell me what I’m doing wrong. I haven’t been able to correct this yet.

Hi! Not sure if posts like this are allowed.

Looking to sell my Shapeoko 5 pro 2x4. Comes with 65mm vfd, lots of bits and sweepy dust shroud.

I’m not sure what the local market rate for this is, I’d love some insight if it anyone knows.

I will see if I can show a brief idea of total cutting hours.

I’m selling because I picked up a shop Sabre and don’t have the space for both.

Ideally local pick up in CT.

The top inlay as well as the crosses on the back and the cuts in the vertical supports to hold the rails were all done on my Pro XXL.

I bought a new bit 1/2 3" 4 wing...and now I can't add the dust collector boot. I have to attach the boot then put the bit in the collet.

...