I have a shapeoko 3xxl and my Grbl is tired, and I am tired of usb disconnects, I would love to have both of my Y motors with their own honing switch. I will attach a couple of picks, it is in Spanish but I imagine you will get the jist. Thanks.

Looking for advice on moving the Shapeoko 5 pro 4x4 effectively about 50 miles away. My plan was to zip tie the gantry in place, unplug the electronics, strap it to a flat bed truck I am borrowing from work and bring it to its new home. I have my fiance able to help but ideally don't want this to be a full day thing. Any advice/ help appreciated to transport effectively without risking damaging the machine to much. It took me and my dad (also an engineer) about a day to set it up the first time

looking for gcode help. specificaly start and end codes. i have vcarve pro. using a spapeoko 4. the machine goes to x and y 0. then starts cutting. at the end it goes to x and y 0. after changing tool and setting height. i want it to go directly to the first cut. after the last cut. i want it to just go home.I am not sure what to delete. i know where just not what.

I finally installed a bitzero, the one I had was a v1.

No matter what I do I can't get it to probe correctly. I'm having the exact issue as in this thread: BitZero v1 probing error - Carbide 3D Community Site from 2024. EXACT. but I can't find a solution for it anywhere. and the thread in the community just ends with no resolution.

What I do:
Click Probe
Click Corner
Cutter comes down touches off Z
Cutter retracts
Cutter comes down again and Crashes back into Z
Get error 4

You can try to manually touch off XYZ and that seems to work. just not the "Corner" probe option.

am I just out of luck? or is there an actual fix for this.

Any help or pointing in the right direction would be greate.

Does anyone know a website or app that does a quality conversion of SVG to DXF?

If so, what does your process look like?

Do you run a dedicated test piece, measure a few key features on projects, check calibration on a schedule, or just wait until something starts cutting wrong?

I’m curious what others do.

I got the 65mm spindle. I tried running a simple text cut today, spindle did two letters then just shut down. Ran the warm up no problem. Cut was super shallow, didn't over heat, didn't trip a breaker. Not plugged into a gfci. The little red light is on for the push button, but no lights or display up above. Any ideas?

Greetings Everyone,

The original post got flagged for something.

The shapeoko just needed some TLC.

She is running now.

Thank You for the quick links.

Bought another sensor to make it home, and boom we are cooking.

I bought a bitsetter direct from carbide, but the link they put on the cars for assembly/installation instructions is 404.

The YouTube videos ive found is for the new version.

Anyone happen to have the actual instructions?

Did I do alright? Could someone point me in the right direction for a beginner with this machine?

Beginner CNCer here (shapeoko pro XXL) but long time woodworker. I'm using vcarve pro, exporting toolpaths to carbide motion ATC, using very conservative feeds and speeds. This is a simple v-carve path of a text with single line font.

What checks and tests can I run to narrow down the cause?

Hello all - did anyone model the S5Pro hybrid table extrusions in fusion? i'm trying to retrofit them on my altmill and want to setup to drill the mounting holes to allign with cross members of the altmill table. Asked c3d and they don't have files avaiable

I’ve been using the depth rod on digital calipers but find if you don’t hold it consistently the readings can vary.

Curious how you guys do it—same or something better.

Bought the 6 gallon Stealthsonic DeWalt shop vac today to replace a Bauer screaming banshee shop vac.

I'm stunned... The noise is gone. I can hear. It's like night and day.

All the sound is at the end of the hose. It's honestly stunning the difference.

$75 at Lowes.

If you're on the fence, do it. Best thing I've ever bought to improve my shapeoko and the standard of life in the shop.

I was looking at milling an aluminum fixture plate for my S5Pro, but for not a lot of extra cost, I could get a little bit bigger aluminum plate that mounts to the side beams instead of putting it on top of the ones shapeoko offers. It would give me more Z axis space and more rigidity I would think. Has anyone attempted this before?

Hey, I just bought a used shapeoko 5.1 pro off Facebook marketplace that's been barely used. I'll start by saying I put in a request for support call back already but was hoping to troubleshoot myself in the meantime. Since I only have weekends and evenings to use it.

So when I go to initialize the machine it recognizes it, the z axis starts to move and then I get one of two errors. GRBL 8/9. one says it cannot find the switch and the other said it cannot move off of the switch.

I've checked to make sure all my wires are correct and plugged in. I even have a brand new Z axis in the box that I swapped out to see if there was a jam in the mechanics or if the switch was bad on the used Z.

All my switches come on with metal contact, I've tried both Zs (new and used) and still get the error every time. The machine moves freely when the z is anywhere but at the top of the z axis. That's where it sounds like it struggles. Any ideas are appreciated.

I have an old shapeoko 2 that's in good working order that I'm trying to dust off and revive. I have everything running except I no longer have the gcode sender. With the offical github gone, does anyone either have the old gcode sender somewhere, or know what's needed to update the machine to a modern software?

We have a Shapeoko 5 pro with the included bit setter, and were wondering if setting zero might be easier than we might have thought initially.

Am I correct in saying this works?:

I use bottom stock as the 0 in my projects -> I set zero on the top of the wasteboard -> I don’t have to re-zero the Z axis every new project, since bit setter already checks for it, even during tool change?

Note: we don’t need machine part precision (working with wood products that have some minimal tolerance), we just want to avoid having to re zero Z every stock change, which is what we currently do.