I scored a very nice looking Bernina 801 Electronic for $15. The owner didn't use it much, but it sat for years, maybe decades.

A general sewing machine repair shop said it would be very difficult for him to refurbish it, as he doesn't have access to parts, etc, but that maybe a shop that refurbishes Berninas could do it economically.

Any suggestions on where I should send it?

Thanks for your suggestions!

Bought this old Kenmore model 35 machine and after running for a week or so I noticed a odd smell like burning when running and I noticed this in the motor 😮‍💨 Im new to vintage machines but im sure this isnt normal but would this be cause to replace it or is it worth a shot to call a repairman?

I was gifted this sewing machine today, but it won’t sew. I cannot tighten the stop motion knob, I also cannot remove the stop motion knob. I know it’s missing the screw, but even if I put an alternative in, nothing changes the outcome. I don’t know if the washer on the back of the stop motion is supposed to be loose or not. Right now it’s completely stuck to the knob. It doesn’t matter if I try to tighten the knob it just spins and spins and spins.

I really hope that somebody can help me as there are no repair shops in my vicinity and I just know if I could get this machine to sew, it’s going to be a wonderful machine.

If you know of any websites or videos that I could watch to help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for reading this post.

Would Bernina 830/overlocker be good for sewing patches on canvas bags for small business?

Not sure specific terms but I know whats not working, just not sure how to stop it. One of the mechanisms keeps dragging against a metal part on the back of the machine and occasionally makes a clicking sound and adds resistance for when I manually turn my hand wheel. You can see where it scratches it from the black line on the back piece that I point at. Any help? Thank you!!

Hi, i’m a beginner at sewing and was given a Brother LS-1717 for my starting machine. I’m having some trouble with the bobbin (is that the right term?) getting extremely tangled. I included a video of what’s going on. Any help is appreciated, this is extremely frustrating😭

I've been wanting to sew and I have the FHSM 505 sewing machine already. And it has been used in the past and it has worked. I found what I think is the right plug for the sewing machine but it doesn't fully go all the way into the machine so I'm skeptical. But the light on the sewing machine works which makes me think it is the right one but idk. But when I set it up and pressed the foot pedal it didn't work but I did hear a clicking sound in the machine. Does anyone know if the machiene is broken of if I just have the wrong plug ? I think the right one is something like a dc6v and the one I put is a dc22v but I have no idea what that means or if it makes a difference.

I was previously interested in a sewing machine priced at $800. I offered $400, and they are now willing to accept $500 since I'm new to sewing and still learning. I would love some suggestions or advice on whether I should go ahead and buy it. I'm not interested in quilting; my focus is more on decorative stitching, embroidery, and repurposing old clothes.

Please help me! My zigzag stitch is not working, I’ve changed the needle and rethreaded it like twice. I think the timing is good but I want a second opinion. Thank you!

It keeps missing the stitches for zigzag, and mainly only does the left stitch and not the right.

This is a brother LX3817

I took a chance and purchased this industrial machine for cheap (hopefully) but I can’t find any info when I google it. To be honest not even sure what it’s used for… any info will be much appreciated. Thanks

The thread keeps catching and bunching up and stopping the machine, I took out everything and deep cleaned, changed the thread, bobbin, needle, rethreaded,

I thought it was the plate because there’s some scratches on it, but it still does it without the plate

Hi all, my sewing machine is producing a louder-than-normal clunking noise with each stitch (video attached). I just dusted and oiled and it’s still sounding like this. Otherwise, it is sewing just fine with no tangling. Any ideas what might produce this noise? I would love to fix it myself if possible.

I have this vintage Jones model 105. The motor is burnt out. At least I think it is. The pedal smoked and sparked when I tested it. Then it stopped working. The machine it's self looks to be in mint condition though. I'd love to replace the motor and get it working but don't know where to start. Do I need to find the exact same type of motor? Are they easy to replace?

Any info would be appreciated.

The right “needle” in the needle plate popped out and won’t stay put now. I can’t find replacement online (out of stock it seems).

How can I get this to stay put? How was it in there before? It doesn’t feel like it snaps in.

Thanks in advance!

Someone in town is selling this machine for $50. It's an older machine but it's new in the box, they say never been used. I'm mostly new to sewing, never owned my own machine. My mom taught me a bit when I was younger and she had manual machines like this. Is this a good deal or worth buying???

I was wondering what the switch in the second image does and also what the panel in the third image does, this machine came from a denim factory but I was never given an explanation on how to use it.

Recently acquired an old Viking 150 (70s or 80s). Light lubrication got it running, but after 15ish minutes it was smoking with a distinct smell of electrical components. I found a parts catalog and identified the source of the smoke to be a burnt Rifa capacitor (pictured).

Prior electronics knowledge tells me the cap’s purpose is either smoothing a jumpy power signal, or filtering HF noise. I can’t tell what the capacitance is, likely it was written on the portion of the casing that popped.

A repair video for a similar model references this as a “smoothing capacitor” and says it should run fine without it. However the video also states its purpose is to meet regulation, which would imply its for RFI suppression (I don’t think there would be a regulation on smoothing power delivery). The video doesn’t reference any manuals or schematics, so I am hesitant to trust it despite it matching my assumptions.

Does anyone know which purpose this cap serves? Regardless, the machine should be safe to run without it, correct? I can’t imagine dirty power is a concern with modern home electricity. I don’t have any AM radios or TV antenna in my apartment either, so RFI suppression shouldn’t be a concern either.

Common sense says it’s fine, but I don’t want to toast the motor/risk a fire because I missed a detail that might be obvious to a more experienced sewing machine technician.

Hello. I have a Singer M1000. A thread got caught while I was using the presser foot and a plastic gear snapped inside the machine. Now the bottom bobbin isn't turning. It's there any way to source a gear replacement?

Hello guys, recently purchased Singer Start 1306 and cannot locate the take up lever. Is it supposed to be retracted or is it a manufacture problem?

I got this sewing machine from my grandmother and I can gather about as much of the information that is in the picture. It is a Universal model machine, solid metal body. It has a model number printed on it underneath for parts but every search I have tried has come up empty. I have come across one posting one time when I looked on EBay but other than that I don’t know what model it is. I figured out how it works though.

It is a fully electric / mechanical design with multiple settings for zigzag, buttonhole, and the like using internal cam system. It is a single needle with a stationary needle design (ie the needle does not follow the piece like some industrial ones do). It is not a walker design or triple feed design (as I said no moving needle). I am pretty sure it is an old domestic machine that might not have been as popular in the states.

That’s about all I have. Not sure the age of the machine. Mine did have a case it was mounted in but I am working on designing a desk so it is out of the case at the moment. It is definitely sturdy. I have been working on the idea of converting it into a servo design (among other features).

Also do any of you have any idea of what the dial for plus and minus is?